First Incubation - Mixed Dates

cluckinaround207

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I think I made a big oopsie without thinking about it! This is my first incubation and I did this without even thinking about it. I think I REALLY messed up bad, but know some of my errors.

1. Hatching pullet eggs (only layers we have right now)
2. Have eggs in the incubator from three different dates (1/4, 1/8, 1/14)
3. Dark green egg shells that I cannot candle
4. Not freshly laid eggs (some are 1-3 days old)
5. No humidity or tempurature gauge inside of the incubator (just using one on the incubator)

My question for each scenario:

1. Can these eggs produce chicks that will be okay?
2. Will these need to be separated at lockdown/hatch so the others do not interfere?
3. Not really a question- just a concern as I cannot see if they are fertilized or developing (worries of them "exploding" now)
4. Will they hatch or develop sooner than the others?
5. Thinking some have been lost as a result- Looks like some are stuck to the shell. Worried about humidity issues being incorrect.

Now my biggest concern is that I have a lot that looks like they never developed past the embryo stage. They are at day 15 and no movement and still just a small black, lima bean. The rest are moving and big. There is the red ring in a lot of them. I don't know enough to risk taking them out and being wrong, but how likely is it for them to "explode" in the incubator as I am reading all over social media? I feel like I had no business incubating- but on the other hand, I had to learn at some point, but I feel so guilty not learning more first.

Of our 35 eggs, maybe 10 are convincingly developing.
 

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Hi! Welcome to the forum, glad you joined.

Don't be too hard on yourself. You haven't done anything worse than a lot of other people. So just treat this as part of the learning curve.

1. Hatching pullet eggs (only layers we have right now)
I hatch pullet eggs. Sometimes I get great hatch rates, sometimes I don't. I find if I wait until the pullet has been laying about a month before I set her eggs the hatch rate isn't that much worse than from hens that have been laying quite a while.

2. Have eggs in the incubator from three different dates (1/4, 1/8, 1/14)
I assume these are the dates you started them, not the dates they were laid. It is a problem, what we call a staggered hatch. A very common problem and some people do it on purpose. I'm not going to go into detail here, it would take too long. Do a search on staggered hatch on here and start another thread on the topic. It deserves a thread of its own. Provide a link in this thread to your new thread so I can find it.

3. Dark green egg shells that I cannot candle
A lot of us incubate dark eggs we cannot candle well. I can't see much inside of my darker ones. I never candle eggs under a broody hen, it's too inconvenient. I try to candle eggs in the incubator twice. Once at 7 days out of pure curiosity and again at lockdown to eliminate any that are not going to hatch. Not because I'm worried about them exploding but just so I have fewer to follow during hatch. Some if them you really can't see much inside of them.

4. Not freshly laid eggs (some are 1-3 days old)
Hens can hide a nest and lay eggs over a two week period to get enough to hatch before they start incubation. They usually get great hatch rates. I often store eggs for a week before I incubate them. I don't see your problem.

5. No humidity or tempurature gauge inside of the incubator (just using one on the incubator)
Sometimes the gauges that come with the incubator are off, sometimes they are not. I don't know if you have a problem or not. I suggest you find a thermometer that you can trust and calibrate your thermometer. Often they are close enough that you can hatch with them, just not ideal. Worry is interest paid before it is due. Find out f you have an issue before you lose sleep over it.

1. Can these eggs produce chicks that will be okay?
Absolutely. They can.

2. Will these need to be separated at lockdown/hatch so the others do not interfere?
Address this in a separate thread about staggered hatch.

3. Not really a question- just a concern as I cannot see if they are fertilized or developing (worries of them "exploding" now)
This might be the topic most used to terrorize people. Can an egg explode? Yes, it is possible. Is it likely? No. I don't think most people knowingly try to scare people with this, they just don't know any better.

The problem is when bacteria get inside the egg. The material inside the egg is a perfect food for many bacteria to grow. Incubation temperature is a perfect temperature for many bacteria to grow. But if bacteria does not get inside, it cannot grow.

About the last thing a hen (or pullet) does as she is laying an egg is put a liquid we call 'bloom" on it. This liquid quickly dies and forms a barrier to prevent bacteria from getting inside. It is extremely effective as long as it is intact. Washing an egg can remove the bloom. So can scratching or sandpapering an egg. If the egg has a blob of mud or poop on it the bloom is likely compromised. A light dusting if dry stuff isn't a problem but a blob is. So do not clean your eggs and do not set "dirty" eggs.

Explosions are so dramatic. Really get your attention. It is possible an egg with bacteria in it can build up pressure and explode but what usually happens is that this foul liquid seeps out. It is still horrible.

Candling does nothing to identify these eggs. It doesn't matter if the egg is developing or not. If bacteria gets inside it will kill the embryo if it is developing. The way to detect an egg that is going bad is to sniff it. Nothing wrong with carefully sniffing each individual egg just to be sure. If you detect the rotten egg smell in your incubator I strongly recommend sniffing each individual egg. It should be easy to discover the culprit.

4. Will they hatch or develop sooner than the others?
Not sure what your question is here? Will which eggs develop sooner that what others?

5. Thinking some have been lost as a result- Looks like some are stuck to the shell. Worried about humidity issues being incorrect.
Have you been turning them? If you don't know what I'm talking about, let me know.

Now my biggest concern is that I have a lot that looks like they never developed past the embryo stage. They are at day 15 and no movement and still just a small black, lima bean. The rest are moving and big. There is the red ring in a lot of them. I don't know enough to risk taking them out and being wrong, but how likely is it for them to "explode" in the incubator as I am reading all over social media? I feel like I had no business incubating- but on the other hand, I had to learn at some point, but I feel so guilty not learning more first.
This link shows you what you should see for development day by day. Hopefully it will help you determine which ones are viable.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/development-of-a-chicken-embryo-day-by-day.72537/

Of our 35 eggs, maybe 10 are convincingly developing.
For your first incubation knowing nothing that sounds like a potential win. Here's hoping most of those 10 hatch and you do much better your second try.
 
I think I made a big oopsie without thinking about it! This is my first incubation and I did this without even thinking about it. I think I REALLY messed up bad, but know some of my errors.

1. Hatching pullet eggs (only layers we have right now)
2. Have eggs in the incubator from three different dates (1/4, 1/8, 1/14)
3. Dark green egg shells that I cannot candle
4. Not freshly laid eggs (some are 1-3 days old)
5. No humidity or tempurature gauge inside of the incubator (just using one on the incubator)

My question for each scenario:

1. Can these eggs produce chicks that will be okay?
2. Will these need to be separated at lockdown/hatch so the others do not interfere?
3. Not really a question- just a concern as I cannot see if they are fertilized or developing (worries of them "exploding" now)
4. Will they hatch or develop sooner than the others?
5. Thinking some have been lost as a result- Looks like some are stuck to the shell. Worried about humidity issues being incorrect.

Now my biggest concern is that I have a lot that looks like they never developed past the embryo stage. They are at day 15 and no movement and still just a small black, lima bean. The rest are moving and big. There is the red ring in a lot of them. I don't know enough to risk taking them out and being wrong, but how likely is it for them to "explode" in the incubator as I am reading all over social media? I feel like I had no business incubating- but on the other hand, I had to learn at some point, but I feel so guilty not learning more first.

Of our 35 eggs, maybe 10 are convincingly developing.
Like you, I am a newbie and came here to find out that my having 3 Roos and a single hen would not do. I purchased an incubator and started gathering eggs to try to get more hens. Not knowing any better and not thinking about it first, I also staggered my eggs that went into the incubator. After gathering four or five eggs, in the incubator they went with the rest and repeated. Thankfully, cold weather set in and she stopped laying.

After a few weeks of egg cooking, it dawned on me that I can’t do a lockdown only on the eggs ready for lockdown. I purchased another incubator to use solely for lockdown mode. Worked beautifully. I simply moved the eggs ready to be locked down into the second incubator. By the time they hatched and moved to the new brooder I belatedly realized I needed as well and got the lockdown incubator sanitized, fired back up and stable, it was time to put in the next batch.

I now have 12 Roos and 3 hens. LOL. Evidently my hen has the “let’s make as many Roos as possible!” Gene.

Currently, both incubators are full of duck eggs as my DIL and son want ducklings. With these I put all the eggs in both incubators on the same day. I also purchased hygrometers as I read duck eggs aren’t as easy as chickens. With my chicks, I just let the incubator take the temp and humidity. After two weeks with the ducks, I yanked the hygrometers as I had 4 in each incubator and none read the same; although they would all read the same if lined up outside of the incubator side by side. Generally, the gauge on the incubators read close to the midpoint of what all the hygrometers read; thus I decided to have faith in it after all the stress and fear for my eggs from reading all those hygrometers. They’re on Day 15 and appear to be developing nicely.

When I checked my duck eggs at day 10, I did have one with the red ring. I assumed it was dead and threw it away. I had 6 infertiles that I threw away as well. Out of 27 eggs originally, I have 20 still incubating. Not going to get the 100% hatch rate from the start as I did with my chickens, but I’m happy with 20 developing eggs so far.

I found incubating eggs to be ridiculously easy. I am done letting all the terrifying stories give me angst to the point I’m checking temps and humidity every 15 minutes and constantly messing with the temp buttons and opening and closing vents. Once per day worked well enough for my chickens; thus twice a day is all my ducklings are getting. Candling twice is all I’m doing and only doing those to get rid of the infertiles and then again to check them out to make sure they are indeed ready for lockdown. All the stress and angst expended will only shorten my life and I suspect it’s not good for the odds on the hatch rate either.
 
I have six incubators and at times I find myself doing a staggered hatch. Shipped eggs hatch and they can be quite old. The thing about incubating eggs is everything you do can be perfect and still get a bad hatch and do many mistakes and still get a decent hatch. Many decades ago as a kid I hatched 4 out of 4 bantam chicks out of a homemade incubator that was essentially a cardboard box, cheap thermometer and a light bulb. This was my first try incubating anything. Ancient Egyptians hatched eggs in building without electricity. If you think about wild birds say the cardinal in your backyard lays many eggs, hatches maybe 2 or 3 broods, but in it's lifetime only one chick replaces the mother cardinal. My feeling the life force in some eggs is very strong and those eggs weather everything and others give up over the slightest mistake. Nature gets a little sloppy with chickens since they lay hundreds of eggs a year, considering the poor cardinal just has ten eggs to hatch a chicken can afford to lose quite a few. I'm guessing whatever eggs the Egyptians were hatching still had a lot of initial investment put in them as they were probably not laying at the rate of modern chickens. This is just my opinion from many years of hatching eggs that the egg itself makes more of a difference than incubation techniques within reason. Recently I dropped an egg with a few others that broke. That egg stayed intact and on a whim I wrote "dropped" on it not expecting it to hatch. It hatched a perfect chick. I've also had the perfect eggs collected with care, and incubate with care fizzle out.
 
Like you, I am a newbie and came here to find out that my having 3 Roos and a single hen would not do. I purchased an incubator and started gathering eggs to try to get more hens. Not knowing any better and not thinking about it first, I also staggered my eggs that went into the incubator. After gathering four or five eggs, in the incubator they went with the rest and repeated. Thankfully, cold weather set in and she stopped laying.

After a few weeks of egg cooking, it dawned on me that I can’t do a lockdown only on the eggs ready for lockdown. I purchased another incubator to use solely for lockdown mode. Worked beautifully. I simply moved the eggs ready to be locked down into the second incubator. By the time they hatched and moved to the new brooder I belatedly realized I needed as well and got the lockdown incubator sanitized, fired back up and stable, it was time to put in the next batch.

I now have 12 Roos and 3 hens. LOL. Evidently my hen has the “let’s make as many Roos as possible!” Gene.

Currently, both incubators are full of duck eggs as my DIL and son want ducklings. With these I put all the eggs in both incubators on the same day. I also purchased hygrometers as I read duck eggs aren’t as easy as chickens. With my chicks, I just let the incubator take the temp and humidity. After two weeks with the ducks, I yanked the hygrometers as I had 4 in each incubator and none read the same; although they would all read the same if lined up outside of the incubator side by side. Generally, the gauge on the incubators read close to the midpoint of what all the hygrometers read; thus I decided to have faith in it after all the stress and fear for my eggs from reading all those hygrometers. They’re on Day 15 and appear to be developing nicely.

When I checked my duck eggs at day 10, I did have one with the red ring. I assumed it was dead and threw it away. I had 6 infertiles that I threw away as well. Out of 27 eggs originally, I have 20 still incubating. Not going to get the 100% hatch rate from the start as I did with my chickens, but I’m happy with 20 developing eggs so far.

I found incubating eggs to be ridiculously easy. I am done letting all the terrifying stories give me angst to the point I’m checking temps and humidity every 15 minutes and constantly messing with the temp buttons and opening and closing vents. Once per day worked well enough for my chickens; thus twice a day is all my ducklings are getting. Candling twice is all I’m doing and only doing those to get rid of the infertiles and then again to check them out to make sure they are indeed ready for lockdown. All the stress and angst expended will only shorten my life and I suspect it’s not good for the odds on the hatch rate either.
6 of the Duck eggs hatched on Day 23. They weren’t supposed to go into lockdown until Day 25. I imagine all that turning the incubator up to 101 and 102 I did from the hygrometer readings I did the first few weeks possibly cooked them faster?

9 of the eggs hatched on Day 24. Many of these eggs were shrink-wrapped on both days. As I had never dealt with shrink-wrapped eggs before, I broke all the rules and was determined to save all of these ducks.

I gave them a few hours after they pipped as I knew i wasn’t supposed to mess with them, but I am sorely lacking patience. I peeled back a bit of the shell at the pip area. If the membrane looked like leather, which most did, I peeled all of the shell off the membrane. Then I would carefully rip the membrane down far enough to let the baby get his head out. Many had their heads severely stuck. Once I got their heads up and loose, I would put them back in the incubator, membrane and all, to let them wiggle out of the membrane when they wished to do so. Most did immediately. Some waited a bit.

I only lost one egg in the nightmarish fiasco and it was my own fault. When I got down to 5 eggs, I moved them all to the same incubator as I originally had 10 in each one. When I did, I forgot one had pipped and turned the pip hole away from me. By the time I remembered the pip, many hours had passed as I moved them prior to going to bed for the night. When I looked in the pip hole, I could no longer see the poor duckling moving. I also noticed the egg was much cooler than others I had held. I peeled a bit of the shell and the membrane was leather. Peeled more and opened the membrane to his head and he was cold and gone. I was distraught over it, but considering all I had been through with these eggs, I was happy to get 15 out of 20.

The other four are still cooking in the incubator. One is a black egg that is a Cayuga. I don’t expect him to hatch, but my DIL wants me to wait until Day 31 to pull him. I noticed he had a dent and a tiny crack in the shell where the air sac would be and I suspect he had that from Day 1 and I didn’t notice. The reason I suspect it was there from the beginning is that when I candled, his air sac was the same size it was on my first candle day. From thinking on it, I am guessing that air was escaping out of that hole plus humidity getting in? I assume this guy will be shrink-wrapped as well added to the small size of the airhole, his chances of survival are extremely slim. I suspect he is probably already dead; although he doesn’t feel as cool as the poor duckling I killed due to my stupidity.

I don’t expect the other 3 to hatch either, but again, my DIL is hopeful; thus they’re staying until Day 31. At least they don’t have any pips, cracks, or dents in them and do have mature air sacs. When I candled, I discerned no movement nor could I see their heads or bills. Air sac areas were flat.

I finally DID find some reliable hygrometers, btw. Switchbot. They’re small and fit in my small incubators well and aren’t messed up by the heat. They kept close to the same readings as my incubators through the last week of incubation with zero wonkiness. I purchased them off Amazon. They had the four small hygrometers, along with a Hub 2 that is the only piece that had a display. It displays the temp and humidity of the room. I checked the readings of the four hygrometers on my phone. At least, if I ever do ducks again, I’ll have reliable hygrometers.

The 15 baby ducks are doing very well and gorgeous imo. I already love them, although I found that I am allergic to down. I love ducks, but doubt I want to go through such a mess again and then deal with all the symptoms of down allergies after hatching. Might be worth it though, but will require some serious thought for me. ;)
 

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How I stagger hatch:

I have three incubators, each holding 64 silkie eggs (Brinsea 56 EX-auto). The first two are for incubating, the third has no racks, a rubber shelf liner on its floor, and is where they go for lockdown five days before hatch day. These are silkies, so I do 5-day lockdowns in case there are any early birds.

I will set between two to three dozen eggs, then 5-6 days later, set two to three dozen more, and so on. I mark every egg in a batch the same way, with a fine-point Sharpie: an X, an O, two dots, or two dashes. That's so I can easily know which ones go to lockdown.

Once the eggs in the hatcher hatch and are fluffy, I move them to the brooder, clean the hatcher incubator, sterilize it with Odoban, and replace the rubber mat. (Those are machine washable.) This is why 5-6 days are given in between, as by then I've got about 2-3 days to get it ready for the next batch.

Why do I do this?

* I can get more eggs hatched and available to sell faster than filling the incubator and waiting 21 days. I have new baby chicks available weekly instead of monthly.

* All breeder eggs laid are set within the same week they are laid.

I wind up doing this during the heaviest months of March, April, and May, and I still fell behind last year. I had a waiting list for chicks.
 

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