First time coop build

[SamLockwood]

I used straight 19 gauge wire instead of hardware cloth for external openings on my coop / run. I haven't heard of anything getting through hardware cloth but I figured it wouldn't hurt to have something heavier duty.

I like the raised floor design. Mine is high enough when it's time to change the bedding I can just roll the wheelbarrow under the door and scoop everything directly into it.

I'd second an extra latch of some sort on the other end of that nesting box door. Unless that door is really stiff the unlatched end can be a weak point for an ambitious Raccoon. Either that, or re-do it as 2 or 3 smaller doors with separate latches.

The ramp angle kind of steep (maybe it's just the camera angle). My coop floor is about 28" off ground level, and I did a 60" long ramp which worked out well.

Chickens always want to roost at the highest possible point. For 12 birds you want 12 to 15 feet of roosting bars at the highest point for them to sleep at night, and some lesser roosting bars for them to climb up to the actual roosting bars (roughly 15" separation maximum between "rungs").

 

[BarnyardChaos]

I may add some Lexan windows instead of solid plywood to the upper panel that will close up the screened openings. I don’t think there is much to be gained other than some early sunlight from sunrise which is mostly filtered by trees. I was just thinking this will let in a some earlier light into the coop for their biological clocks.

That was my thinking, too - about adding a window on the south wall and for the solar heating in winter. But if it's shaded most of the time, there's really no benefit except morning light. However, the Lexan on the door panels is a great idea to get that morning light. Love it.

All of the roosts are removable. I did not step them at different heights because I wanted them to be the same height to prevent some bickering over dominance. With that said, they are fairly high up. I will have to take some measurements, but I can do maybe hang a drop roost in the middle between each one as a lower roost/step.

If they have enough roosting space on the high bars (you do, plenty) they won't bicker much except for who's roosting next to whom. And they'll work that out. Understand that their bickering and jostling will send some of them falling to the floor and they'll need to get back up, in the dark. Again, the need for additional lower step bars.

It's pretty interesting to watch. Chickens can't see in the dark. But I've watched mine, and when one gets bumped off, she makes her way to where she knows the bar should be. Then she uses her beak to find it and determine height. She hops up to that bar, then does it again for the next one, and the next. She makes her way back to the top bar in the dark, or at least the second highest bar if the top bar birds won't make space for her. But that behavior might also be due to the misplacement of my roosting bars. My bars are placed 12" apart vertically, but only 10" horizontally. (Yes, those on a lower bar get pooped on by those on the next bar up.) I've learned better since, but haven't corrected it yet. On my to-do list.

 

[aart]

I used straight 19 gauge wire instead of hardware cloth for external openings on my coop / run.

@SamLockwood what exactly does this mean?

 

[SamLockwood]

@SamLockwood what exactly does this mean?

Sorry, I forgot to type "1/2" by 1/2" grid" in between "straight" and "wire."

Basically this stuff:

I like it better than hardware cloth or putting this over hardware cloth.

 

[aart]

Sorry, I forgot to type "1/2" by 1/2" grid" in between "straight" and "wire."

Basically this stuff:

I like it better than hardware cloth or putting this over hardware cloth.

That is basically hardware cloth, looks like it's painted of vinyl covered.

 

[Yfd417]

I used straight 19 gauge wire instead of hardware cloth for external openings on my coop / run. I haven't heard of anything getting through hardware cloth but I figured it wouldn't hurt to have something heavier duty.

I like the raised floor design. Mine is high enough when it's time to change the bedding I can just roll the wheelbarrow under the door and scoop everything directly into it.

I'd second an extra latch of some sort on the other end of that nesting box door. Unless that door is really stiff the unlatched end can be a weak point for an ambitious Raccoon. Either that, or re-do it as 2 or 3 smaller doors with separate latches.

The ramp angle kind of steep (maybe it's just the camera angle). My coop floor is about 28" off ground level, and I did a 60" long ramp which worked out well.

Chickens always want to roost at the highest possible point. For 12 birds you want 12 to 15 feet of roosting bars at the highest point for them to sleep at night, and some lesser roosting bars for them to climb up to the actual roosting bars (roughly 15" separation maximum between "rungs").

I am 36” from ground outside to bottom of door. The ramp is 60”. I’ll have to see if that’s not working and rework it.

 

[Yfd417]

That is basically hardware cloth, looks like it's painted of vinyl covered.

That’s what I’m using, except the 1/4x1/4 is 23 ga vs the 19 ga on the 1/2x1/2. I was worried about something biting through it and looking for experiences. It seems fairly strong but one never knows.

 

[Yfd417]

All the recommendations will tell you they need 1-lf of roost space per bird. But in reality, they might use that much only to maneuver to their favorite spot - and all 7 or 8 of your birds will crowd along 5-ft of roosting bar, at the highest point, no matter the season. They will not choose to roost on a lower bar just because it's winter. However, they will need a lower bar or two to access that prime real estate up high, especially as they grow older or if your breeds are heavier birds.

Here's what I would do, and I strongly recommend it:
(Everything at the far end, where the pop door is located)
Build the indoor landing in front of the pop door, 12-inches deep and as wide as you want it.
Then add a bar above it, halfway up between the landing and the upper bars, and at least 24-inches out from the wall above that pop door. To prevent blocking the farthest nesting boxes, either make it shorter (how to support it?), or full width at the height of the top of the nesting boxes. Shoot for no more than 18-inches vertical distance between the roosts.
Slide that crossbar to the middle of the coop. That puts it 12-inches away from the next bar down, and gives perfect access to either of the top roosting bars.

Oh, and I forgot to add this in my earlier post:
I'd add a bar or board in front of those nesting boxes, so they can hop up on it to enter a box, but also move horizontally between boxes. Maybe 6-8-inches out from the front of the boxes. They won't roost on it, but they'll use it to access the boxes easier.

You could remove the bar in front of the windows if your flock is less than 8. But put it back if you get more chickens.

I added this interior landing. 11.5”x16” wide. I’ll add a brace underneath tomorrow. It’s just nailed to a 2x4 now. Next I’ll find a solution for an intermediate height bar for them to get up to roost.

 

[Yfd417]

Ladies are in the coop as of a few weeks ago. I’m still touching up trim under hardware and finishing some odds and ends but I’m close to full completion. I modified the roasting bar setup after the posted photo. I added a lower bar at back to help access the higher bar, and removed the right side as one of the birds was pecking the roof insulation. I opted for the poultry pen for a run mainly for time savings. I found one half price second hand and fairly new condition.

 

[ChicFil- A]

I’m scrambling to finish up by the weekend. Roof, paint, hardware cloth work primarily left for now. The two windows and associated trim over nesting boxes will be done once windows are in. Rear cleanout doors will have hardware cloth in upper for now and a secondary door to close that off to be added after I get the birds in. Let me know any suggestions, thoughts. I tried to design it for deep litter keeping ventilation in mind.

Transom window above chicken door is west facing so it will give some radiant heat in winter. I will keep other openable windows open in summer for ventilation. Roof has 1/2” foam board foil side up to reflect radiant heat in summer. Galvalume roof planned as of now. I may switch to white if i can’t get the gable trim to match the Galvalume panels. I chose a light color to keep temps down as much as possible in summer.
Also, I am using 1/4” 23ga hardware cloth in the openings. I was thinking of doubling it up with 1/2” 19ga for extra strength. I used the 1/4” to cut drafts while keeping ventilation as open as possible. Has anyone had any problems with predators being able to break the 23 gauge?

Wow!! Good looking coop.