First time hatcher and a bit panicked

Keri1980

In the Brooder
Nov 28, 2024
5
29
44
Hi everyone, I stumbled upon this site today.
If only I'd found it few weeks ago. The contradicting advice on line is crazy

I'm 15 days in to incubating silkie bantum eggs in the brinsea mini advance. There was 6, now 5 eggs

Up till today I believed I should be thinking about lockdown soon and hiking up the humidity....but after reading the section on humidity hatching here everything I've learned has to be unlearned.
I've also not been weighing my eggs.
And I've just ordered a hydrometer...

Help! I'm panicked I've gone about this all wrong. Am I really okay to continue to candle?
Im new ( but very enthusiastic) and I've been educating myself all wrong
😭

Any input would be gratefully received

An example pic from yesterday
 

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Relax if you still have veins you have a good chance of them hatching. Most information isn't really contradictory just different approaches. Weighing and watching numbers are just to different methods of checking humidity. As far as days to hatch there may be some different strains of silkies that hatch in less than 21 days but most hatch at 21 days in ideal conditions, but if you lock down early no harm done.
It does not hurt to candle the eggs, but once external pipping starts you do not want to leave the incubator open for a long time because dry air can dry out membranes. Do you have a specific question about how others do lockdown? I personally put my humidity above 60 about day 18 and take chicks out once a day after they hatch. .
 
Relax if you still have veins you have a good chance of them hatching. Most information isn't really contradictory just different approaches. Weighing and watching numbers are just to different methods of checking humidity. As far as days to hatch there may be some different strains of silkies that hatch in less than 21 days but most hatch at 21 days in ideal conditions, but if you lock down early no harm done.
It does not hurt to candle the eggs, but once external pipping starts you do not want to leave the incubator open for a long time because dry air can dry out membranes. Do you have a specific question about how others do lockdown? I personally put my humidity above 60 about day 18 and take chicks out once a day after they hatch. .
Thankyou yardmom.
I'll try not to panic and remember in nature mummy hen does not have a thermostat!
I suppose my main question is do I add water or not? My brinsea incubator has a divided well in the center, one half has been filled and kept topped up, the instructions say fill the other half at the point turning stops, which they recommend 2 day prior to hatching.
Lots of what ive read, says extra humidity is very important, yet in with a hen humidity levels wouldn't suddenly get higher would they?

Thankyou x
 
It has definitely been established that incubators can cause the air to dry out to much. There is definitely moist breast feathers on my setting hens.

Weather you need to add more water like your incubator instructions say depends on a bit on the environment around your incubator. That is why some weigh eggs and many use a hydrometer to see how moist the air in the incubator is.
 
Hi, welcome to the forum. Glad you joined.

my main question is do I add water or not?
One reason you see such conflicting advice is that different people have different conditions. Different things work.

To hatch, an egg needs to lose a certain amount of moisture. Mother Nature was kind to us in that she gave a window that works, you do not have to be that precise. But you do need to be within that window. Some people obsess over that and try to be very precise while others are a bit more relaxed and still do pretty well.

Each egg is different. Depending in several different things in how the hen put that egg together some lose moisture at different rates. Eggs lose moisture before incubation starts, the longer they are stored and the drier the storage conditions the more moisture they have lost when incubation starts. Incubators are different. The locations where the incubators are have different temperatures and moisture levels of the air going into the incubator.

What all this means is that the ideal humidity in the incubator can vary by egg. You are not trying to get the perfect humidity for each individual egg, you are trying to get a humidity that lets the greatest number of eggs hatch. I'm grateful Mother Nature gave us such a big window to work with.

For some people that "best" humidity may be around 30%. For others 50% may work best. I have no idea where you will fall.

My suggestion for this hatch is to be as consistent as you can and see what happens. Adjust future hatches based on your results. If you are not consistent how will you know what to adjust, if you need to adjust anything? Following the manufacturer's recommendations is probably a pretty good starting point.

I also suggest getting a hygrometer so you can see what is going on. I did not calibrate mine so I don't know if it is reading high, low, or spot on. I don't care (that should really upset the purists). Through trial and error when mine is reading around 39% to 40% it will work well. I got decent hatches at 45% but through tweaking I figured 40% was a tiny bit better.

Reading some posts on the internet and on this forum can cause panic. Some people honestly believe if you don't do something exactly the way they do you are causing the failure of civilization as we know it. The reality is that there are almost always different ways to do things that can work well. Some things work well for some people but not others. It's a journey, not a destination. If you read something that makes you feel uncomfortable or worried, ask for a second opinion.

Lots of what ive read, says extra humidity is very important, yet in with a hen humidity levels wouldn't suddenly get higher would they?
Humidity in the incubator is important during incubation to control moisture loss. Humidity during hatch is important to control shrink-wrap. Shrink-wrap is where the membrane around the embryo dries out and shrinks tightly around the chick so it can't hatch. That's why we raise humidity during lockdown. This is something that causes a lot of panic. Shrink-wrap is real, it can happen, but it seldom does even if the incubator is dry or you open it and let the humidity escape. I leave the incubator closed during hatch to reduce the risk of shrink-wrap unless I have an emergency to deal with. Since the chicks can live longer than 72 hours after hatch as they absorb the yolk I don't have many emergencies.

Studies have shown that hens can control humidity levels under them during hatch. That's one of many reasons I leave my broody hens alone during hatch, so I have less risk of messing things up.
 
Take notes on what you do so next time you know what you done and the results. Then you can adjust from there.

My last hatching was done in a walk out basement and I ran the incubator with out added water and had great results.
 

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