On 5/28 one of my BSL I thought was a goner, shows up at the barn with 16 chicks....she had a nest in the woods. Then my other "missing hen" shows up 11 days later with 5 chicks (actually fell off an embankment and a few chicks nearly died from dehydration and 90* heat...all were saved with some TLC). And all but 4 of 21 rehomed. So all this broodiness and hatching was done in the woods and I never saw the action. Fast forward, yesterday a barnevelder was sitting on 6 eggs IN the barn. Hooray. I think?
The only reason I didn't take her eggs is because I'd actually like to see the whole process, candle some eggs etc. and maybe even see pips and such. This is the part where I don't know what I'm doing haha. Of course I've used BYC handy dandy search, but I tend to get distracted reading 5, ok 10 other threads before realizing I've been on here an hour and still have unanswered questions haha. My questions:
1. broody has been sitting since 6/8 - is it normally 21 days on the dot?
2. It was 104 yesterday and 100 today. Barn is well ventilated (windows/door wide open) but it's still 90 or more in there. Will I have hard boiled eggs?? Sheesh, I don't know how she can stand to sit.
3. Food water sources are right in her face. Well, 5' away. Yet I marked the eggs last night, and when she left the box EVER so briefly today, someone laid new eggs. I removed those.
4. When do you candle a broodys eggs? I learned today from this site I need to be careful of bacteria from my hands. I wish I'd have marked them with a full circle (like I just read)
5. I segregated the other new moms and babies for a 5-7 days before integrating (in the barn where all could see). I JUST dismantled that pen (4'x4' hardware cloth framed cube). If she hatches in the barn, same procedures? I'd like to not segregate this time. Mind you the others hatched in the woods and I don't know if the other hens will bother her during hatching. Do they hatch right under the mom? Maybe I won't see a dang thing, AGAIN. lol
6. Your favorite way to break a broody. It appears to be contagious...they are going to put me out of business!
Thank you for your replies in advance. I'd never be a crazy chicken lady without the help of BYC.
I enjoyed reading your post immensely … I have never experienced a hen hiding her nest or eggs and marvel at the stories of ‘missing hens’ just wandering out of woods with babies.
I also totally understand the distraction BYC seems to produce in copious amounts
Apologies for the novella I appear to have written in response; a cup of coffee may be needed
In answer to Question #1 Depending on the breed and size [LF or bantam], it can vary from 18 to 24 days but the median would be 20-22.
Question #2 After doing my F to C conversion [37C to 40C
] we get those temperatures here also and I have had a broody sweat through a hatch in those temps. If you watch her, during the heat of the day, while still sitting on the eggs, she will not be hunkered down flat like a pancake but ‘sitting high’. They are so very clever at regulating the temperature of their eggs.
I have had broodies that get off the nest twice a day to have a drink and another that got off the nest at 3pm every day, like clockwork but I have also got a ‘Zombie’.
She is a Bantam Cochin [or Pekin Cochin or Pekin if you like, depending on from where you hail
].
She has just successfully hatched her 3rd lot of chicks and for each of her hatches I had to move her off the nest once a day. On hers and my first attempt at hatching eggs everyone said “she will move off the nest eventually for something to eat and drink” … by the time Day 3 arrived and she had not moved, I made the decision that she didn’t get that memo! I tried putting the food where she could reach it but she didn't notice it, this gal really zones out!
Each of the hatches were in the warmer weather when we had our hottest days and I ensured that she got frequent drinks from this special little cup she has (I know it is silly but it is just this thing we seem to have and she appears to like being waited on!). I believe she goes broody now just so she can have room service
Every afternoon, I lift her off the nest and make sure she stretches her legs, has something to eat and drink and then she waddles back to the nest.
Question #3 Yep, marking the eggs is a must, especially if others are contributing; a split hatch is never fun and the straggler eggs risk getting abandoned when she decides to take the newly hatched bubs in search of food and for a tour of the domain.
Question #4 I am not the best person to answer this one. I have a que sera sera policy; I do not candle the eggs, actually I do not touch the eggs once I have given them to the broody. Each day, if she gives me a chance, I take a quick peek for any breakages or obvious issues and leave it entirely up to her.
Question #5 Segregation: I do separate my broody's from the rest of the flock. They can still see each other through wire dividers but with my very first hatch I learnt that a broody in with the main flock is not going to work here with the set up I have. There were squabbles for the nest box and the risk of eggs being broken and then once the chicks hatched, still squabbles for that particular nest box [I have more than one
] and the risk of chicks being injured; so mumma and bubbers were moved. I have continued to use separation for subsequent hatches and it has worked well with no injuries.
I live residential and do not have a barn. My coop is set up in the middle of the run, so we have a front and back run which can be separated when we have bubs.
The issue with keeping them separate is reintegration when they are older as this does take some time and patience.
The first 5 weeks or so, mine are separated from the main flock by wire; lots of looking but no touching.
The next 5 weeks, above plus supervised, semi-integrated free range with an extended run into the garden and lots of looking, closeness but still no touching.
The last two weeks, supervised free range with no fences but still separated during the day when in the coop etc.
Granted, this takes much time and patience but I have had no injuries and only half-hearted attempts to peck the chicks, more of a warning to ‘step away from my grub’ than anything else.
Time and patience are the key. Some flocks and set-ups are just not suited to having little ones around.
Hatching: Yep, they hatch right under mum and there is a chance you will not know anything about it until you hear a peep or see the cutest little face peeping out at you from between mum’s feathers
I know when one of my broody’s bubs are close to hatching as she starts chattering away to the eggs and I know that within 24 hours or so we will have bubs. This is always a good sign for me because it is the first indication I have that development has actually happened.
If you do get chances for a quick peek close to the date, you may be lucky enough to see pips in the shell or partially zipped shells.
Question #6 There are lots of threads in BYC regarding breaking a broody .. the most popular method is a couple of days in a wire crate with good air flow to cool them down, no nest in sight and nowhere comfortable to snuggle down and do the broody thing; another method (which I have not tried and probably wouldn’t do) is frequent baths in cold water, again to cool them down.
I do not break my broody's per say. It is suggested that it is not a good idea to wait it out because she will sit on the nest for weeks on end, not eating and drinking much and could lose condition and the longer she is broody the harder it is to break her. Some people also break a broody because they want her to go back to laying as soon as possible.
I leave my gals with the flock (do not put her in broody jail) but ensure that she is blocked off from the nest as much as possible. In the evening, I block off the nest box so that she has no choice but to roost. I have had one determined gal who would brood on the coop floor, but I picked her up of an evening and popped her on the roost. Depending on how determined she is, this method takes a lot longer but having broken a broody in a crate, two weeks later she was broody again. In my experience broody's that I have broken gradually do not return to broodiness quite so soon.
It is definitely more work than just putting them in a crate; continually blocking off nest boxes, watching her every move and having to put up with her trying to break into the nest box, nipping at toes, chasing people across the garden; biting you when you remove her from the nest once again etc, but we get there eventually.
(Again, lots of people may not agree with my method and I respect that).
If I stop getting excited with impending hatches I know it is time to stop .. I love watching a mother hen with her bubs .. so beautiful! Good luck with her and please let us know how you go and share some pictures of your bubs.
Thank you for your IMMENSELY helpful reply. You certainly have the experience! I did notice she was hovering with her wings spread yesterday. I can't imagine holding that stance for an entire day/S - ouch! Makes a lot of sense and it's amazing what they are pre-wired to do. I agree on not handling them much, it's not like eggs you can easily access anyway (insert broody hen sounds and pecking here). I may go ahead and put a full circle around them today though to make it easier to remove newly added eggs. I'd like the kids to experience candling at least once. I'll refer to the handy dandy egg gestation post I found here on BYC to pick the best day. Also, I didn't realize it could vary 18-24 days with the hen hatching them. Why do these ladies always choose the middle of my 48 hour work stretch?
I'm praying for day 22+...that will be perfect. My prior integrations went fairly smooth. After 7 days in a separate pen, the first mom and babes integrated flawlessly. Second hen, all went great until that moment it did not. lol I found myself happy my phone is roughly the size of a small book and used it to back hand a few meanies that tried to take the mama hen to the light. After that, and spraying said meanies with a hose there has not been another incident again. Thank you for confirming my gut instinct on putting these into the "viewing pen." I was thinking maybe I wouldn't have to but, I can see I better not try. Oh how the husband will love it when I tell him "remember when I said you could take that pen apart because we were done with it for the year?" LOL. I will have to break any more broodys. I like your ideas. Enough is enough haha. I have 25 hens and 4 chicks in a very decent sized barn, but I still have to feed them all. I was very surprised too with the first mom showing up when I thought she was coyote bait. Apparently 16 is a lot. We now call her Old Mother Hubbard. Ha! She had 3 other eggs when I found her clutch (none of those made it). Again, thank you!!!
I enjoyed reading your post immensely … I have never experienced a hen hiding her nest or eggs and marvel at the stories of ‘missing hens’ just wandering out of woods with babies.
I also totally understand the distraction BYC seems to produce in copious amounts
Apologies for the novella I appear to have written in response; a cup of coffee may be needed
In answer to Question #1 Depending on the breed and size [LF or bantam], it can vary from 18 to 24 days but the median would be 20-22.
Question #2 After doing my F to C conversion [37C to 40C ] we get those temperatures here also and I have had a broody sweat through a hatch in those temps. If you watch her, during the heat of the day, while still sitting on the eggs, she will not be hunkered down flat like a pancake but ‘sitting high’. They are so very clever at regulating the temperature of their eggs.
I have had broodies that get off the nest twice a day to have a drink and another that got off the nest at 3pm every day, like clockwork but I have also got a ‘Zombie’.
She is a Bantam Cochin [or Pekin Cochin or Pekin if you like, depending on from where you hail ].
She has just successfully hatched her 3rd lot of chicks and for each of her hatches I had to move her off the nest once a day. On hers and my first attempt at hatching eggs everyone said “she will move off the nest eventually for something to eat and drink” … by the time Day 3 arrived and she had not moved, I made the decision that she didn’t get that memo! I tried putting the food where she could reach it but she didn't notice it, this gal really zones out!
Each of the hatches were in the warmer weather when we had our hottest days and I ensured that she got frequent drinks from this special little cup she has (I know it is silly but it is just this thing we seem to have and she appears to like being waited on!). I believe she goes broody now just so she can have room service
Every afternoon, I lift her off the nest and make sure she stretches her legs, has something to eat and drink and then she waddles back to the nest.
Question #3 Yep, marking the eggs is a must, especially if others are contributing; a split hatch is never fun and the straggler eggs risk getting abandoned when she decides to take the newly hatched bubs in search of food and for a tour of the domain.
Question #4 I am not the best person to answer this one. I have a que sera sera policy; I do not candle the eggs, actually I do not touch the eggs once I have given them to the broody. Each day, if she gives me a chance, I take a quick peek for any breakages or obvious issues and leave it entirely up to her.
Question #5 Segregation: I do separate my broody's from the rest of the flock. They can still see each other through wire dividers but with my very first hatch I learnt that a broody in with the main flock is not going to work here with the set up I have. There were squabbles for the nest box and the risk of eggs being broken and then once the chicks hatched, still squabbles for that particular nest box [I have more than one ] and the risk of chicks being injured; so mumma and bubbers were moved. I have continued to use separation for subsequent hatches and it has worked well with no injuries.
I live residential and do not have a barn. My coop is set up in the middle of the run, so we have a front and back run which can be separated when we have bubs.
The issue with keeping them separate is reintegration when they are older as this does take some time and patience.
The first 5 weeks or so, mine are separated from the main flock by wire; lots of looking but no touching.
The next 5 weeks, above plus supervised, semi-integrated free range with an extended run into the garden and lots of looking, closeness but still no touching.
The last two weeks, supervised free range with no fences but still separated during the day when in the coop etc.
Granted, this takes much time and patience but I have had no injuries and only half-hearted attempts to peck the chicks, more of a warning to ‘step away from my grub’ than anything else.
Time and patience are the key. Some flocks and set-ups are just not suited to having little ones around.
Hatching: Yep, they hatch right under mum and there is a chance you will not know anything about it until you hear a peep or see the cutest little face peeping out at you from between mum’s feathers
I know when one of my broody’s bubs are close to hatching as she starts chattering away to the eggs and I know that within 24 hours or so we will have bubs. This is always a good sign for me because it is the first indication I have that development has actually happened.
If you do get chances for a quick peek close to the date, you may be lucky enough to see pips in the shell or partially zipped shells.
Question #6 There are lots of threads in BYC regarding breaking a broody .. the most popular method is a couple of days in a wire crate with good air flow to cool them down, no nest in sight and nowhere comfortable to snuggle down and do the broody thing; another method (which I have not tried and probably wouldn’t do) is frequent baths in cold water, again to cool them down.
I do not break my broody's per say. It is suggested that it is not a good idea to wait it out because she will sit on the nest for weeks on end, not eating and drinking much and could lose condition and the longer she is broody the harder it is to break her. Some people also break a broody because they want her to go back to laying as soon as possible.
I leave my gals with the flock (do not put her in broody jail) but ensure that she is blocked off from the nest as much as possible. In the evening, I block off the nest box so that she has no choice but to roost. I have had one determined gal who would brood on the coop floor, but I picked her up of an evening and popped her on the roost. Depending on how determined she is, this method takes a lot longer but having broken a broody in a crate, two weeks later she was broody again. In my experience broody's that I have broken gradually do not return to broodiness quite so soon.
It is definitely more work than just putting them in a crate; continually blocking off nest boxes, watching her every move and having to put up with her trying to break into the nest box, nipping at toes, chasing people across the garden; biting you when you remove her from the nest once again etc, but we get there eventually.
(Again, lots of people may not agree with my method and I respect that).
If I stop getting excited with impending hatches I know it is time to stop .. I love watching a mother hen with her bubs .. so beautiful! Good luck with her and please let us know how you go and share some pictures of your bubs.
I just returned from the barn and another hen slithered in the lay but she's so committed to the eggs she tried fitting half her body in with the other hen. I put a ring with a pencil on the 6 she's sitting on and put the other hen in another box. Maybe once she's close to hatch date, I'll put up the pen and move her into it so if they hatch while I'm away there won't be any issues. Has anyone seen a hen abandon eggs days before hatching? She lets me pick her up and put her back in...for a broody she's pretty laid back.
Quote: I am very hands-off with my broodies, and let them do their thing, so I don't have much advice for questions 1-5, but I do have to break broodies. I have silkies that will sit for too long, going from clutch to clutch, and I have a girls only pen that will produce a broody once in a while. The wire crate method is fast and easy. I have a large bird cage. I put the hen in the cage with no bedding and only water the first day, then give food the second day. You want them to be a little uncomfortable and cool down. I suspend the cage by setting it on concrete blocks, and this allows cooler air to get under the bird. They are usually broken within 2 days, and I've never had one need longer than 3, even the most determined silkies
The only reason I didn't take her eggs is because I'd actually like to see the whole process, candle some eggs etc. and maybe even see pips and such. This is the part where I don't know what I'm doing haha. Of course I've used BYC handy dandy search, but I tend to get distracted reading 5, ok 10 other threads before realizing I've been on here an hour and still have unanswered questions haha. My questions:
