Food issues.. Beware

Ok thanks. I dont breed my hens. No roosters here..
when i deworm my chickens i don't eat those eggs in 4 weeks, might be to much for oders but I feel better that way. usually 3 weeks after you give them any medication should do it but 4 will be more safe. Good luck with the rest of your flock.
 
Usually when you switch feed alot it will destroy there digestive systems also to much protien can give them a heart attack.
Switching feed will not, "destroy" the digestive system.
I have never herd of high protein feeds causing heart attacks, do you have a link?
 
Thank you all for the advice.
They haven't been around other chickens, dont roam.. Never have. How would they get coccidiosis?
To answer this question, they can get if from wild birds who come into your yard. You know, all those opportunists who like to come in to steal some of the treats you take out to your chickens, they would be where your chickens got it from. There isn't much you can do to keep them away from these visiting guests.
 
If too much protein caused heart attacks, my flock would die every year when the dreaded Japanese beetles emerge. Re: coccidiosis, it is in all soils, and already in the chicken's gut (most likely). The chicken becomes symptomatic when the gut flora is out of balance, allowing the cocci organism to proliferate. The best way to prevent coccidiosis is to promote a healthy immune system and healthy gut.
 
Coccidia is everywhere. Including every chicken's gut in the world. Stress is what causes coccidia populations to explode. Stress can include dog attacks, bad weather, other chickens, starvation, dehydration, loud noises, overcrowding, overload of worms. You name it, anything can cause a chicken to be stressed. One chicken can have coccidia and be sick, or your whole flock can be infected. If your coop is dirty, clean it out really well and treat your flock with Corid. You do not have to throw your eggs away when dosing your chickens with Corid.
 
I may be getting a new thread started here ( I've not gotten the hang of what exactly goes where and how so..) My husband swears that it is only free-range chickens that have a squishy poop that would make a poop board real handy in the henhouse. So, he's trying to convince me that, since we'll be feeding our chickens commercial food, their poop won't be hard to deal with, let 'em poop on the floor, no poop boards needed. I don't wanna be the one who ends up scraping poopy floors, dusty poppy floors. Or getting peeved 'cause poop boards have to be put in after all to keep the chickens healthier and make my life easier. Help!
 
I may be getting a new thread started here ( I've not gotten the hang of what exactly goes where and how so..) My husband swears that it is only free-range chickens that have a squishy poop that would make a poop board real handy in the henhouse. So, he's trying to convince me that, since we'll be feeding our chickens commercial food, their poop won't be hard to deal with, let 'em poop on the floor, no poop boards needed. I don't wanna be the one who ends up scraping poopy floors, dusty poppy floors. Or getting peeved 'cause poop boards have to be put in after all to keep the chickens healthier and make my life easier. Help!
I don't want to contradict your husband but a poop board is helpful no matter the liquid content of the poop. Cleaning poop off the floor is a pain in the rear, trust me. Our chickens free range all day every day and their poop isn't squishy or runny.


Install the poop board.

edit: We have 13 chickens that roost above the poop board and it takes me all of 3 minutes to clean up after them once a week. The pine shavings we have in the bottom of the coop for the duck and to give them something padded to land on when they leave the roost gets changed out once a month or once every six weeks since there is very very little poop in it. Our 7 pullets sleep in one of the nesting boxes and I have to clean that thing out (all the bedding comes out, the bottom is scraped with a putty knife and it's left open to dry for a few hours) every week or it gets nasty. Once I've added more roost space and another poop board the pullets will be roosting there and my life cleaning poop will become much easier.
 
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Thank you all again for the advice.
So far everyone is doing good. The two bloody butts are back to normal. Im going to treat with the Corid anyways, then probably worm them a few weeks after that. I dont want to overload thier systems to much.
They are still finishing up the electrolytes/vitaman water.
Thier coop is cleaned weekly, so I dont think a dirty coop has been a issue. I just started letting them out again on the nicer warmer days but I wouldn't think that woukld stress them out, they love it! No new chickens, still with the same batch since last spring.. No attacks.
 

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