Free-ranging in winter

DukesDucks

Crowing
Oct 6, 2019
1,346
4,434
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Eastern Ontario, Canada
I went from 0 to 28 guinea fowl because as I was starting to buy my first ones, this group became a rescue mission. Anyway, they have settled in well. I have divided them into two groups each with its own coop and run. They are learning that my whistle means good things coming, and putting them into coop at night has been fairly easy.

By the time I have had them 6 to 8 weeks, which I think is recommended before allowing any out to free-range, there will be several feet of snow here. I'm wondering if it is worth it or would they be ok having access to the run space.

I plan to sell all but 10 in the spring. I have a question about leg bands to easily identify males from females. Am I being paranode about which type to use? I'm thinking that I should use ones that could reasonably easily come off in case a band gets stuck in a tree branch. Any recommendations?

One of my reasons for getting guineas was for tick control. I seem to be a tick magnet. Last week, it was -4c and I was putting the finishing touches on the run door. Hours later I found a tick walking on my neck. I have given both groups a firm lecture on my expectations for the future. In the meantime, at least no one is sneaking up on my place without a 28 guinea fowl alarm going off. :lau
 
I tried one particular brand of leg bands (can’t remember the catchy name offhand) in 2 different sizes for young vs. grown; every time I tried them they have come loose in a matter of days.
 
I have a question about leg bands to easily identify males from females.
I use plastic wire ties that come in different colors. I have never had any issues with the leg bands getting caught on anything. Some birds will clip them off while others never bother them. They do have a limited time that they will last but that shouldn't be a problem for you. Mine lasted for many years.
 
By the time I have had them 6 to 8 weeks, which I think is recommended before allowing any out to free-range,
A minimum of 6 weeks is necessary for adult birds that have been brought in to a new location. Keets that are raised there can get by with a couple of weeks.

Be very careful with them around snow the first time they are exposed to it. They will take to the trees and refuse to land on the snow. Even birds that have been around snow for a long time can have problems with deep snow. Keep a bale of hay or straw on hand in case you need to make a landing runway for them.

They do appreciate a flake of alfalfa to rummage through in the winter.
 
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I wouldn't bother when snow is on the ground. The thought is that they get confused bc the ground and sky are both light/white and become disoriented. Getting them out of the tree is not fun, esp w/that many.
I used to use the ankle rings, it took no more than an hr for some to get them off. Now I use diff colored small, light weight zip ties. As R2 said, eventually they get them off, but by then you'll have sold them on and know your birds. Even the look alikes develop some tell, like the size/ shape of helmet or waddles. Mia's waddles are big flappy things, Brodie's are cupped, Riyu is perfect and Hector's one wing is constantly frazzled. -all male. Gabby is the only one who still has her original ankle bracelet; she likes to accessorize.🤷‍♀️.
Tick control was also our goal, we wanted to avoid chemicals. It's been 4 yrs now. We kept track this past season; between the 2 of us, we saw 5, all nymphs in the spring. Used to, I couldn't go out in the gardens without tracking in 2-3 atleast each time. Plus, we had zero issues with garden bugs- tomato worms, aphids, japanese beetles -didn't stand a chance. Still had stink bugs, can't blame them for that 🤢, but didn't notice those orange biting asian beetles this year that usually are STILL congregating in my house at this time on ceiling by western facing windows.
They have a reputation for eating bees, too, but I have a lavender patch in center of garden where I sit, that is constantly bee-active, and they didn't bother them.
 
I went from 0 to 28 guinea fowl because as I was starting to buy my first ones, this group became a rescue mission. Anyway, they have settled in well. I have divided them into two groups each with its own coop and run. They are learning that my whistle means good things coming, and putting them into coop at night has been fairly easy.

By the time I have had them 6 to 8 weeks, which I think is recommended before allowing any out to free-range, there will be several feet of snow here. I'm wondering if it is worth it or would they be ok having access to the run space.

I plan to sell all but 10 in the spring. I have a question about leg bands to easily identify males from females. Am I being paranode about which type to use? I'm thinking that I should use ones that could reasonably easily come off in case a band gets stuck in a tree branch. Any recommendations?

One of my reasons for getting guineas was for tick control. I seem to be a tick magnet. Last week, it was -4c and I was putting the finishing touches on the run door. Hours later I found a tick walking on my neck. I have given both groups a firm lecture on my expectations for the future. In the meantime, at least no one is sneaking up on my place without a 28 guinea fowl alarm going off. :lau
Ive never had luck with any leg bands staying on or not causing me issues. It is also very hard to sex guinea hens. They should also be okay in the winter free ranging as long as they have their adult feathers!
 
I imprinted my guinea fowl onto ducks and ducks imprinted on to them and the ducks want to be with my other ducks that are imprinted on geese I have. So when geese says it's time to go in they go and sometimes the guinea fowl will go in first, but their is a light on a timer and they love going in. As for snow I don't know what to say since these ones aren't free thinkers they follow the ducks, ducks say lets play in snow they follow.
After I open the Waddle Wattle Inn up in the mornings all 5 geese come out with 29 ducks and I come back about hour later for eggs to let the guinea fowl come out on their own.
 
I went from 0 to 28 guinea fowl because as I was starting to buy my first ones, this group became a rescue mission. Anyway, they have settled in well. I have divided them into two groups each with its own coop and run. They are learning that my whistle means good things coming, and putting them into coop at night has been fairly easy.

By the time I have had them 6 to 8 weeks, which I think is recommended before allowing any out to free-range, there will be several feet of snow here. I'm wondering if it is worth it or would they be ok having access to the run space.

I plan to sell all but 10 in the spring. I have a question about leg bands to easily identify males from females. Am I being paranode about which type to use? I'm thinking that I should use ones that could reasonably easily come off in case a band gets stuck in a tree branch. Any recommendations?

One of my reasons for getting guineas was for tick control. I seem to be a tick magnet. Last week, it was -4c and I was putting the finishing touches on the run door. Hours later I found a tick walking on my neck. I have given both groups a firm lecture on my expectations for the future. In the meantime, at least no one is sneaking up on my place without a 28 guinea fowl alarm going off. :lau
It's easy to identify the males and females - males generally have a larger, more prominent bump on their head, and they make a very different call - 'chi chi chi chi - as opposed to the females 'buckwheat' call. I doubt they will range far in snow - maybe include some freeze dried meal worms or black soldier fly larvae in their diet for protein, or feed them duck pellets instead of chicken food, which is not enough protein for them
 
It's easy to identify the males and females - males generally have a larger, more prominent bump on their head, and they make a very different call - 'chi chi chi chi - as opposed to the females 'buckwheat' call. I doubt they will range far in snow - maybe include some freeze dried meal worms or black soldier fly larvae in their diet for protein, or feed them duck pellets instead of chicken food, which is not enough protein for them. I wouldn't bother with leg bands - the potential for damaged legs is not worth it
 
I can tell which ones are female and find the call more accurate than their head adornments. I am also watching their personalities to find the bullies and the bottom of the pecking order ones. I plan to sell 18 of them in the spring, keeping the best 10 for myself. I'm still thinking about ratio. Does 4 males and 6 females sound like a good idea, or is there a better idea.
 

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