Free ranging pros and cons?

Production is generally better when contained. I feel it's because nutrition is better when contained as explained above. Plus the fowl are more focused. Not off running here and there and/or stressed from environmental influences which is always present when ranging. Those that feel their fowl are stressed when contained, this is because the fowl are used to running lose and not used to being contained. It's new to them and they don't like it. But if they re raised this way or put on a schedule when they are released for a short period of time, they are used to this and do better. A regimented schedule, discipline, and structured life
Benefits every living thing including fowl..

It's said a free ranged egg is healthier....I go along with this to a certain degree. As said health is at the mercy of the environment. If fed correctly a contained fowls egg I would think can be just as healthy or even healthier than free ranged.

Which takes us to one more misconception I saw mentioned earlier. It was said the lack of free ranged greens during winter causes smaller eggs, and less eggs. I believe it has nothing to do with this,...I feel the reason for this is because fowl were created to stop laying in late fall whith the lack of natural sunlight. Today we have bred strains to keep laying or supplement the light to keep them laying when they should be taking a break. So there is a natural compromise, they keep producing but the production is not at 100% in form or quality, when natural light resumes in early spring the fowl naturally pick up the pace in production. This is weather they are ranging or contained.
 
Something else I disagree with is the advice to get a rooster to protect the hens from predators. I personally have never seen this to be the case. I don't believe any true-predator will be stopped by a rooster. I had a game rooster few yrs back fight a hawk through the pen wire. His head and heels was bloody and their were hawk feather in his pen. The irony is a yr later he was killed and eaten by a hawk when ranging on a horse farm I released him and some hens on. I've had roosters flog a dog before. But the dog was looking the other way and the roosters always knew those particular dogs weren't a threat.

The only benefit to running a rooster with the flock is they keep a particular order to the flock. They are more alert to dangers. They will sound alarms at times. And they fertilize eggs. But the average chicken owner now adays don't need any of these things. Just like hens don't particularly need a rooster either.
 
There is an issue of health when it comes to contained fowl. This is where extra work and time comes into play.

Mental health is an issue. If left contained full time. Especially if on an individual basis, the fowl can become what we call pen stale. So u must keep them mentally stimulated. Periodically moving them around to different areas helps tremendously. If this Is possible. Or give them other things to keep them stimulated. Heads of cabbage, or other vegetables. A suet block helps too. Anything different like this. Put a rooster in with the flock periodically will really stir things up for a time. Or have roosters see each other but not next to each other. They will get stirred up from this. Even you going out and actually spending time with your fowl. Pull up a bucket and spend some bucket time sitting there studying them. This benefits them and educates tHem too. Plus it's satisfying to the soul to spend time with fowl. The benefit to the birds is unmeasurable. I'm convinced that human interaction with any domesticated animal is of great benefit to human and animal. It's all a big part of animal husbandry that has been lost through the ages because of the busy lives of humans.

Physical health is a major issue.....but if done correctly contained fowl will actually thrive. Always add some type of litter to their walks and coops. Periodically give them something different to scratch through. Grass clippings leaves,mulch, hay, straw, pine straw, mix it up. Even in runs if you do this the deep litter method will work. As it packs down, get in their and turn it over, gets the Hans active again. Beneficial for their mental and physical health. Once or twice a yr, remove the litter in their runs. Putting fresh. Esp, if it's a small run. Put down a coat of lime, perhaps a dusting of tick/flea powder or if it's your thing, DE. I takes work but it's very doable to raise extremely healthy fowl while contained, even in extremely small cages,..it human emotions based on human reasoning that makes us feel cruel to keep them penned up. Where as as I've mentioned, inmany cases it's a much better environment when contained.
 
I have been raising chickens for about a year and have not had any issues with my eggs. I recently decided to let them free range in my yard. It was just a few weeks later and I started to get fragile egg shells. Thin and easily damaged. I realized that they weren't getting the calcium that they needed. I returned them to the coop and run and upped the calcium and the eggs got better. I think I discovered that when free ranging your chickens you need to make sure they have access to the nutrients they need, including proteins and calcium . Mine spent to much time feeding on the grass and whatever else they could find, but they weren't getting what they needed. Hope my recent experience helps


I have also found this to be the case. Two different times with two different strains of fowl. One was the ISA BROWNS,And the second is the TETRA TINTS. Both free ranging. But I feel it's genetic/environmental. I have other strains also ranging with no issues. So obviously these particular strains weren't getting what they needed from the environment. So this leads me to assume its genetic. I haven't had any issues with contained fowl, who are predominately fed layer crumbles, and given oyster shells.

This also proves natural feeding does not always give all the nutrients fowl need. Where as containing them and controlling their diet will if you feed them correctly. In a perfect world we would all know our particular fowl, their particular needs, and their particular ranging areas and what it offers. But that's not possible usually. A combo of containment with short periodic ranging times is the perfect scenario. Throw in a a good perimeter fence and a good LGD. and your fowl will be in poultry paradise.
 
Another misconception that seems to be parroted by the masses , is the taboo of feeding layer ration to chicks.

I've raised many many many over the years feeding layer crumbles. Now I must say this isn't my preferred method, but at times a few will hatch unplanned or only a few hatch and I don't see the reason buying 50 lbs of starter for a few chicks,.....if it's planned. A hatching I really want or special birds I will feed a bag of starter, but when it runs out I go right to layer ration. I've had no problems, and yrs back I raised game fowl where health was of utmost concern because they we're show/ sporting fowl. So if there was issues with health it would have shown up.

Of course my biddies rations are supplemented with a lot of greens and dog food. But by far they are fed nothing but layer rations. The only true value to starter rations IMO is the amprolium medication. Which many are against, but that's another subject.

My understanding is that the extra calcium in layer rations isn't the best for chicks. I got starter when my chicks arrived, 5# bag, went through another then bought grower until they were about to lay (generically, based on the ~5 months of age which is common).

The more experience I get the less I lean on nor agree with scientific studies. I follow true life experience much more than I follow so called studies or what I read in print.

Everything I'm about to say is based on the assumption one is feeding a quality ration. And the only way to know this is also through experience.....

There is no patch of free ranged land that is as nutritious or balanced as one can get from a good quality ration. UNLESS the land is custom grown, planted, maintained, and periodically tested. And even then it's only an unrealistic assumption each and every bird is consuming a perfect balance of what it's system needs....which takes us to another assumption based on pure fantasy. And that is assuming each bird is eating exactly what it NEEDS. Real life and reasoning dictates otherwise. Chickens is just like any other living being. The are going after what they like most. Of course their systems may give them cravings but generallly they will consume their fAvorites. Like a kid going straight towards candy, bypassing spinach. A simple proof of this is how fowl love corn. Corn is one of the least nutritious grains. Mostly empty carbs. Whereas the healthier grains such as whole oats, chickens avoid UNLESS they are raised on them. And even then it's not their favorite by any stretch of the imagination.
To have good nutrition you must control their diets. A balanced breeder ration or a step down, layer ration is the foundation of a balanced diet. Mix in some whole grains. Preferably soaked in water or a vitamin mix is best. Couple times a week give them some soaked cat or dog food, a good brand, nothing cheap, to fulfill their need for animal protein , throw them any and all garden/kitchen scraps and you will have pristine picture perfect extremely healthy fowl. MUCH better than free ranged. Which is at the nutritional mercy of whatever the environment offers, not even taking into consideration what they are TRULY eating while ranging.

From my experience you can't beat the commercial mixed rations. It's just assumptions that it's not as good because it's not all natural. Plus it's modern day human nature to vilify anything that is massed produced by a corporation....

My girls have 24x7 access to Layer crumbles, or in the winter when they aren't getting bugs, worms, etc a product called egg producer plus (local grain company, has more protein). They 'free range' during the day and eat whatever they find but they also go to the coop and eat the commercial food and to lay in the nest boxes. I go through about a half gallon of feed daily in the winter. That amount is good for 3 days or more when they can find eats outside.

Bruce
 
The are going after what they like most. Of course their systems may give them cravings but generallly they will consume their fAvorites. Like a kid going straight towards candy, bypassing spinach. A simple proof of this is how fowl love corn.

My chickens hate corn unless its cooked or fresh. They will ignore dried corn in favor of other foods. It is the last resort food for my ladies.They love the oats though, they're a bit odd I guess, lol!
 
Have you tried whole corn?
Yes,They just tend to ignore it. Cracked corn too. It has to be fresh corn or cooked canned corn for them to really get excited about it. I give them scratch as a treat occasionally but they ignore the dried corn in favor of the other stuff. They don't care for pumpkins or pumpkin seeds either. I put a whole cut open pumpkin in the run for them to peck at and it went untouched. The ladies have their preferences. Oats are always a hit though, they never ignore oats.
 
Consumption of whole corn I associate with hungry birds. Free-range birds need to be hungry enough to actually free-range forage. If too much feed is available enabling more or less continuous crop fill then not only will they have less interest in larger particulate sized food items, they will often have less interest in actually getting out and looking for wild eats. When it comes to large particle size, mine will even consume acorns which are 3 X the size of whole corn. They need adequate grit to process such coarse eats.
 
Consumption of whole corn I associate with hungry birds. Free-range birds need to be hungry enough to actually free-range forage. If too much feed is available enabling more or less continuous crop fill then not only will they have less interest in larger particulate sized food items, they will often have less interest in actually getting out and looking for wild eats. When it comes to large particle size, mine will even consume acorns which are 3 X the size of whole corn. They need adequate grit to process such coarse eats.

Mine free range for 3 hours everyday no problem even though they have access to layer feed crumbles all day. My hens just prefer fresh foods to dried ones. I never even attempt to buy the whole corn anymore (unless its fresh corn on the cob which they love!) They don't really like it and I hardly ever buy scratch because its just not something they prefer. Which isn't a problem for me.Its less monetary output for me and less that I have to store.
 

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