Getting bunnies...help!

casschumama

Chirping
Jan 30, 2021
55
134
86
Central Kansas
We are getting 3 bunnies to use their manure for our gardens, show in 4h, and eventually breed for meat.

1 will be a Holland lop and 1 a rex. Which should the 3rd be? They will be outdoors, best cages? We are building a large run for them to play in during the day, but a cage for other times, too. We want them well cared for and friendly, as my daughter will be showing them next year. :)

We are also starting a youtube channel soon called, 'City Limit Settlement' where we will share our backyard homestead and our journey to learning to be more self sufficient:)
 
We are getting 3 bunnies to use their manure for our gardens, show in 4h, and eventually breed for meat.

1 will be a Holland lop and 1 a rex. Which should the 3rd be? They will be outdoors, best cages? We are building a large run for them to play in during the day, but a cage for other times, too. We want them well cared for and friendly, as my daughter will be showing them next year. :)

We are also starting a youtube channel soon called, 'City Limit Settlement' where we will share our backyard homestead and our journey to learning to be more self sufficient:)
I don't know much about rabbits.
@Bunnylady can maybe help.
 
Is it possible for you to get 4 bunnies? For breeding I believe it's recommended to have 2 does and one buck minimum. A trio of standard rexes should be great for meat (and fur!) and then the holland lop for 4H (I'm not sure a holland/rex would be good for meat?)

The best cage is one you build yourself! :D Most pre-made cages sold by places like Wilco tend to be too small or not well built. My dad built the hutches we have, and they're still insanely sturdy 8 years later, one of them was repurposed and houses ducks now at a friends house : D

I've seen and met many rabbits who live together totally fine, but none of the rabbits I've ever owned particularly liked each other, so in my personal opinion when getting rabbits I'd plan for a hutch for each of them to have their own space. If they get along and can be housed together, sweet! If not, then you have the space to separate! (plus I believe females should be separated after bred and until the kits are grown.)

Take your time in looking at breeders, make sure they have good quality stock for showing in 4H as well as for the Rexes that they're good size, shape and were previously good mothers (or if you're buying kits, that their mom was good, might not matter but better safe that sorry!) Make sure that the breeder keeps their rabbits in good conditions and cares for them, make sure the rabbits are not aggressive and appear active and healthy.

Good luck! : D
 
We are getting 3 bunnies to use their manure for our gardens, show in 4h, and eventually breed for meat.

1 will be a Holland lop and 1 a rex. Which should the 3rd be? They will be outdoors, best cages? We are building a large run for them to play in during the day, but a cage for other times, too. We want them well cared for and friendly, as my daughter will be showing them next year. :)

We are also starting a youtube channel soon called, 'City Limit Settlement' where we will share our backyard homestead and our journey to learning to be more self sufficient:)
I’ve never raised bunnies for meat because I love them too much! But I fully respect your decision and support it!

For their cages, just make sure they have hard floor or something to be able to get off of wire because standing on wire all day can cause their hocks to become sore, and extremely painful and have an infection. I’m not totally sure what your third bun should be as I have never raised buns for meat or show so I’m not totally sure there. I know New Zealand rabbits are popular for meat.

Also, for your runs, buns are real good escape artists and can dig right under so just make sure you have something on the other side of the run or something such as wire. This is also GREAT prevention for potential critters like foxes getting to them and digging.

Hope this helps! Best of wishes to your little homestead!!
 
I’ve never raised bunnies for meat because I love them too much! But I fully respect your decision and support it!

For their cages, just make sure they have hard floor or something to be able to get off of wire because standing on wire all day can cause their hocks to become sore, and extremely painful and have an infection. I’m not totally sure what your third bun should be as I have never raised buns for meat or show so I’m not totally sure there. I know New Zealand rabbits are popular for meat.

Also, for your runs, buns are real good escape artists and can dig right under so just make sure you have something on the other side of the run or something such as wire. This is also GREAT prevention for potential critters like foxes getting to them and digging.

Hope this helps! Best of wishes to your little homestead!!
I don’t agree with wire causes sore hocks, it can but so can solid floor, you need to know your breed and what sort of wire to use then it is fine to use, I don’t mind people not wanting to use wire floor but I did a lot of research in to it and don’t think it is as bad as a lot of places say.

what breed to get is up to you, what do you want from it fancy looks? Meat? fur? Friendly? Small size? Medium size? Large size?

For meat new Zealand are good as well as rex, Dutch, Californian and Florida white.
 
I don’t agree with wire causes sore hocks, it can but so can solid floor, you need to know your breed and what sort of wire to use then it is fine to use, I don’t mind people not wanting to use wire floor but I did a lot of research in to it and don’t think it is as bad as a lot of places say.

what breed to get is up to you, what do you want from it fancy looks? Meat? fur? Friendly? Small size? Medium size? Large size?

For meat new Zealand are good as well as rex, Dutch, Californian and Florida white.
Yes, solid floor can cause sore hocks too. But if a rabbit is standing on wire and that’s all it’s standing on, it will eventually get sore hocks. So the rabbit needs some place to go. Usually plastic mats or fleece in a certain part of the cage will do. I’ve had my rabbits on wire flooring before and they all eventually started developing sore hocks. So something to get away from the wire will be good for their feet in the long run.
 
Yes, solid floor can cause sore hocks too. But if a rabbit is standing on wire and that’s all it’s standing on, it will eventually get sore hocks. So the rabbit needs some place to go. Usually plastic mats or fleece in a certain part of the cage will do. I’ve had my rabbits on wire flooring before and they all eventually started developing sore hocks. So something to get away from the wire will be good for their feet in the long run.
I just want the OP to know different people have different opinions on wire floor, I have heard of people giving their rabbits no place but wire and they didn’t get sore hocks, but I don’t think it is a bad thing to put something in where they can get of the wire.
 
Yes, solid floor can cause sore hocks too. But if a rabbit is standing on wire and that’s all it’s standing on, it will eventually get sore hocks. So the rabbit needs some place to go. Usually plastic mats or fleece in a certain part of the cage will do. I’ve had my rabbits on wire flooring before and they all eventually started developing sore hocks. So something to get away from the wire will be good for their feet in the long run.
Really? I had rabbits for many years. They were kept on wire floors. Nothing else. I never had a single case of sore hocks. Never. Not a one. Now I had New Zealands. If you have some of the giant breeds that may not be the case. I wouldn't know because I have had no experience with them. You can always put a board in the cage for the rabbit to sit on if you think it is necessary. Personally, I think heredity might be the biggest factor in the development sore hocks. It certainly is in a lot of other health issues.
 
I've seen and met many rabbits who live together totally fine, but none of the rabbits I've ever owned particularly liked each other, so in my personal opinion when getting rabbits I'd plan for a hutch for each of them to have their own space. If they get along and can be housed together, sweet! If not, then you have the space to separate! (plus I believe females should be separated after bred and until the kits are grown.)
I actually keep rabbits in a colony, and quite enjoy keeping them that way! Not all rabbits are built for it as you said, but it can be done with enough space and the right rabbits :)
 

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