Giving up 2 roosters, debating about how to replace with hens

[Ash.M]

We definitely don't have a ton of space since we are in the suburbs. How much space between the two enclosures would we need for a proper quarantine? If it is a big risk to not quarantine we could put the new chickens in our unfinished basement, but that was a nightmare with the chicks, so I'd only do it if it was worth it.

Is it best to bring in the new chickens asap after we drop the roos off? Or if we wait a week to get our bearings, does it harm our chances of success?

 

[Ash.M]

Here's our original set-up. We have an old coop from previous owners that we could use if needed

 

[Ridgerunner]

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/introducing-to-the-flock.1260846/#post-20240499

Read my post about quarantine in this thread, post #4.

 

[Folly's place]

Actually doing quarantine effectively means having the new birds a few hundred feet downwind, in a different building, with absolutely no contact between new and old. Wearing different clothes and shoes, showering in between, different everything. In practice, having the birds at another property for three weeks.
Then you aren't safe from Marek's disease, or subclinical Mycoplasma, or whatever anyway.
So, the safest might be getting hens from the farm your birds came from originally.
This is why I only hatch my own, or buy day-old chicks from very good hatcheries, and never bring older birds home from anywhere.
Mary

 

[Mrs. K]

the very good point.^^

 

[Ash.M]

Maybe I will ask the owners of the farm if they would be willing to isolate the birds we choose, from the rest of the flock for a few weeks before we pick them up. Maybe I can pay extra for the inconvenience.

Thanks so much for all of your help and guidance everyone. I may be back with more questions when we actually are trying to integrate new birds. Thanks again

 

[Ash.M]

If you can do a trade with equal size birds, but get two birds, a single bird is hard to do with a lot of fighting. And you could skip the quarantine.

But do not add anything you feel sorry for.

Chickens hate change, so I would do it all at once. Take the roosters out, put the hens in, do it shortly before dark. MAke sure you have hide outs, and extra feed bowls. If there is quite a ruckus, put the original birds in a dog crate or some other way to separate your pen for a couple of days.

Adding baby chicks takes some experience. I would wait a year to try that.

Mrs K

Thank you so much for all of your fantastic advice. I almost adopted a hen today that had very worn feathers from mating, because I felt sorry for her. Luckily your words were ringing in my head and stopped me from derailing the train.

 

[aart]

Maybe I will ask the owners of the farm if they would be willing to isolate the birds we choose, from the rest of the flock for a few weeks before we pick them up. Maybe I can pay extra for the inconvenience.

That won't really cut it...you need to be able to observe the birds yourself, and treat for pests if necessary. They might not even 'get it' and/or be offended that you think their birds may harbor pests/disease.

Whether a true quarantine is possible or desired is matter of risk tolerance.
I personally would never bring in anything but day old chicks.

Consider biological/medical quarantine:
BYC Medical Quarantine Article


Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.

This used to be a better search, new format has reduced it's efficacy, but still:
Read up on integration..... BYC advanced search>titles only>integration
This is good place to start reading, BUT some info is outdated IMO:
http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/adding-to-your-flock

 

[rosemarythyme]

I don't suppose you'd be willing to do chicks again? That smaller coop could be used as a chick brooder, and it's far easier to raise them outside alongside your older birds. Though I don't know if the farm you got them from offers sexed chicks... wouldn't want to be in the situation where you end up with 2 more cockerels.

 

[Ash.M]

That won't really cut it...you need to be able to observe the birds yourself, and treat for pests if necessary. They might not even 'get it' and/or be offended that you think their birds may harbor pests/disease.

Whether a true quarantine is possible or desired is matter of risk tolerance.
I personally would never bring in anything but day old chicks.

Consider biological/medical quarantine:
BYC Medical Quarantine Article


Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.

This used to be a better search, new format has reduced it's efficacy, but still:
Read up on integration..... BYC advanced search>titles only>integration
This is good place to start reading, BUT some info is outdated IMO:
http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/adding-to-your-flock

Thanks for the info!