Goose has Cocci but vet does not know what to tell us about giving medicine, method and dosage

His droppings should look like little logs ideally, runny droppings aren’t that much of a concern with how he’s eating though, getting so much water with his food. Many of mine also spit food into the bottom of their bucket so I wouldn’t worry about that.

Carmel colored runny droppings can be a sign of a little blood and intestinal lining, possibly from coccidia still, but that would be surprising after the antibiotics, giardia and other bacteria could also be to blame.


The sounds he’s making in the videos are sort of “happy goose purrs” that they like to make that sound when preening, sometimes bathing, building nests “which males will also do,” and sometimes grazing.



Pneumonia is a possibility but not always the cause of labored breathing. Oftentimes digestive issues and infections can cause what appears to be a respiratory infection, sometimes a digestive infection and respiratory infection can occur simultaneously.
E.coli can infect the lower air sacks for instance as a secondary infection.

Other times a lower intestine infection often from clostridium but also sometimes from giardia, coccidia, and sometimes even Candida can create a lot of gas which pushes on the rear airsacks causing shortness of breath and even gaping in worse cases.

One way you can tell if this might be the case is if you perform a physical exam on him. Back him into a corner, you can cover his head with a towel or blanket to make it easier, and feel around his lower abdomen. You’ll feel two bumps towards the back which are his hips, a little lower halfway between the hips and his legs is right about where his colon is, it should feel soft and gooey. You might feel a little movement in the colon if you hold him long enough which is normal.

If you feel what feels like a large hard ball that would be abnormal and points to an inflamed colon/ lower intestine, if it feels like it’s bubbling or gurgling quite a bit that indicates that his lower intestine is filled up with gas.

Treatment for this depends on the cause, but if testing isn’t an option my guess would be something along the lines of clostridium, treating with Tylosin and Metronidazole will clear it up but sometimes the infection comes back, probiotics are a necessity to try to keep it from coming back.

It’s also possible it could also be giardia, giardia can be treated with metro and SMZ TMP but it’s very easy to be reinfected, especially for animals that muck about in the soil.


Another possibility is aspergillosis. Asper unfortunatly is very difficult to treat and has a poor prognosis in birds. If caught early it can be treated more easily, but it’s a horribly sneaky disease and not always easy to diagnose. It can mimic the symptoms of nearly every other illness before more characteristic symptoms appear “altered voice.”
One of the reasons why it’s so difficult to treat is because current antifungals are incredibly toxic. Thpically amphotericin B is used initially as a vapor for the bird to breath in to try to clear the fungus out of the lungs and airsacks, itraconazole is used orally to rid the tissues of the fungus.
Terbinafine is said to be a safer antifungal that intraconazole that’s also known to be affective, but it still carries risks.
A drug called Olorofim is the first of its kind antifungal that carries little to no side effects and it’s on the verge of becoming available, expected sometime this year. However my guess is like every other new drug the cost will be insane.
It’s never been tested on birds but that isn’t unusual, most medications given to birds, even prescribed by vets are used off label anyway because no testing has been done.
 
I loaded a few short videos to show the breathing on YouTube, attached are the links . I would appreciate it if you gave my your opinion on his breathing.




If I could make a suggestion, you might want to remove the hay and give his pine shavings for bedding instead.
Hay carries a lot of mites and aspergillosis spores. A healthy goose will be more resistant but geese with weakened immune systems from illness are at greater risk.
 
If I could make a suggestion, you might want to remove the hay and give his pine shavings for bedding instead.
Hay carries a lot of mites and aspergillosis spores. A healthy goose will be more resistant but geese with weakened immune systems from illness are at greater risk.
I will change out the shavings today. I finally got a call back from the people that used to have him and they said he used to wheeze for them sometimes too but they thought that was normal and didn't do anything about it. What had me concerned was that I saw a post that said if you worm them and they have gapeworm, sometimes they get into the lungs as the worms die and cause pneumonia. It did seem to get a bit louder after the 4 days of safeguard wormer. Though he is still active and wants to swim he doesn't eat any grass or the black oil sunflower seeds (like everyone says geese love), he just likes pellets in water mush and some watermelon. He has finished one course of SMZs (7 days) and Safeguard (4 days) so I thought I am supposed to repeat the safeguard again in 10 days (actually only 5 days from today). The attached picture is what the poop looks like. I will try the exam next.
 

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I will change out the shavings today. I finally got a call back from the people that used to have him and they said he used to wheeze for them sometimes too but they thought that was normal and didn't do anything about it. What had me concerned was that I saw a post that said if you worm them and they have gapeworm, sometimes they get into the lungs as the worms die and cause pneumonia. It did seem to get a bit louder after the 4 days of safeguard wormer. Though he is still active and wants to swim he doesn't eat any grass or the black oil sunflower seeds (like everyone says geese love), he just likes pellets in water mush and some watermelon. He has finished one course of SMZs (7 days) and Safeguard (4 days) so I thought I am supposed to repeat the safeguard again in 10 days (actually only 5 days from today). The attached picture is what the poop looks like. I will try the exam next.
Gapeworm can end up in the lungs but you will probably see him coughing.

Poo doesn’t look too out of the ordinary, that’s a good sign!
 
Gapeworm can end up in the lungs but you will probably see him coughing.

Poo doesn’t look too out of the ordinary, that’s a good sign!
I did the physical and do not see / feel anything hard. My vet called back and said he was thinking about it and said now that we know he has a history of wheezing it may have been a long term respiratory thing that might respond better to a stronger antibiotic, he suggested the Baytril 10% (also called Enrofloxacin 10%) in his drinking water for 14 days. But we would have to look up the right dose for a goose. Have you had any experience with that ? It is supposed to be more focused on the respiratory tract. Do you think this is better or worse than the Tylosin powder? We are also going to test the poop and see if the cocci is all gone yet. Should have the poop results tomorrow.
 
According to a few sources around here “Oral” dosage for baytril:

“Baytril 10% liquid dosage is 0.05 ml per pound twice daily for 5 days”

Baytril “Enrofloxacin” a strong broad spectrum antibiotic. It can tackle a number of bacterial issues.

Other than Corid I usually don’t like to use medications diluted into water because there’s no guarantee that they’ll drink enough to have a therapeutic effect, especially if it tastes bad. There’s a lot of waste also, especially with geese that are constantly need their water cleaned as they’re constantly getting their water dirty. Direct crop dosing is the only way to ensure they’ll actually take the medicine.

As for wether Baytril would be better than Tylosin powder that’s hard to say because it depends on the bacteria that’s at fault.

If it’s mycoplasma both will work but Tylosin will be much better.
If it’s something unknown Baytril has a far broader effect than Tylosin.

Tylosin though is harder to use, it’s most effective given by injection, sometimes multiple times a day.
It can be given orally but it has to be administered 2 to 4 times a day, which is what I do because I live in California and I can’t buy the liquid without a prescription so I’m forced to use the powder, also geese require two people to administer an injection. It’s surprisingly easy with two people but virtually impossible for one person to do it alone and I don’t have anyone to help me.

I don’t mix it with drinking water for the reasons I mentioned before but also because my geese will NOT drink their water with it, it tastes too horrible. I’ve also found that the dosage instructions for mixing it in water may be too low anyway.

It’s hard to figure out what the proper crop dosage of Tylosin for a bird is, I’ve used the powder to treat for mycoplasma but usually for one of my gander’s chronic enteritis issues “clostridium”so I actually use the dosage indicated for dogs, which is:

“For clostridial colitis: 10 – 40 mg/kg PO twice daily. Practical- ly (using the wettable powder): 1/16th of teaspoon 2 – 3 times daily for dogs (<7kg); Jth of a teaspoon 2 – 3 times a day for medium dogs (7 – 15 kg); and 1/4 teaspoon 2 – 3 times a day for larger dogs (>15 kg). Mix with food to hide unpleasant taste or put into capsules. Animals with chronic clostridial colitis can often be controlled with one treatment every 2 – 3 days. (Willard 2006a)”

Source Plumbs Veterinary drug handbook



Without knowing for sure what bug he has I think that Baytril would probably be the better option.
 
According to a few sources around here “Oral” dosage for baytril:

“Baytril 10% liquid dosage is 0.05 ml per pound twice daily for 5 days”

Baytril “Enrofloxacin” a strong broad spectrum antibiotic. It can tackle a number of bacterial issues.

Other than Corid I usually don’t like to use medications diluted into water because there’s no guarantee that they’ll drink enough to have a therapeutic effect, especially if it tastes bad. There’s a lot of waste also, especially with geese that are constantly need their water cleaned as they’re constantly getting their water dirty. Direct crop dosing is the only way to ensure they’ll actually take the medicine.

As for wether Baytril would be better than Tylosin powder that’s hard to say because it depends on the bacteria that’s at fault.

If it’s mycoplasma both will work but Tylosin will be much better.
If it’s something unknown Baytril has a far broader effect than Tylosin.

Tylosin though is harder to use, it’s most effective given by injection, sometimes multiple times a day.
It can be given orally but it has to be administered 2 to 4 times a day, which is what I do because I live in California and I can’t buy the liquid without a prescription so I’m forced to use the powder, also geese require two people to administer an injection. It’s surprisingly easy with two people but virtually impossible for one person to do it alone and I don’t have anyone to help me.

I don’t mix it with drinking water for the reasons I mentioned before but also because my geese will NOT drink their water with it, it tastes too horrible. I’ve also found that the dosage instructions for mixing it in water may be too low anyway.

It’s hard to figure out what the proper crop dosage of Tylosin for a bird is, I’ve used the powder to treat for mycoplasma but usually for one of my gander’s chronic enteritis issues “clostridium”so I actually use the dosage indicated for dogs, which is:

“For clostridial colitis: 10 – 40 mg/kg PO twice daily. Practical- ly (using the wettable powder): 1/16th of teaspoon 2 – 3 times daily for dogs (<7kg); Jth of a teaspoon 2 – 3 times a day for medium dogs (7 – 15 kg); and 1/4 teaspoon 2 – 3 times a day for larger dogs (>15 kg). Mix with food to hide unpleasant taste or put into capsules. Animals with chronic clostridial colitis can often be controlled with one treatment every 2 – 3 days. (Willard 2006a)”

Source Plumbs Veterinary drug handbook



Without knowing for sure what bug he has I think that Baytril would probably be the better option.

Here’s the best guide to administering oral meds

https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...dications-to-all-poultry-and-waterfowl.73335/

For large birds like geese 12ml syringes are the safest to use, “I’ve had smaller ones almost go down their throats and get choked on!”
Thanks again I will order the Baytril 10%.
 

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