Goose Incubation & Hatching Guide - Completed!!!!

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Kuntry... part of this is in the Guide at the begining of this thread... just above the picture of the scale and marked egg toward the beginning.
Pete, if it's not too much trouble can you explain or point me in the direction (post, thread or link) on what to do in reference to the following:
What To Do In The Process Of Collecting Goose Eggs:
If you are collecting goose eggs daily, how do you store them (positioning & temperature of room being stored in)?
While they are being collected and stored, do you rotate them, how often do you rotate them and in what position)?


That's all I can think of for now. I appreciate your advice and expertise in this area.
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Thank you!
ETA: Where can I get a humidity gauge?
we found Humidity gauges on some of the thermometers at Lowes
 
Kuntry... part of this is in the Guide at the begining of this thread... just above the picture of the scale and marked egg toward the beginning.
Pete, if it's not too much trouble can you explain or point me in the direction (post, thread or link) on what to do in reference to the following:
What To Do In The Process Of Collecting Goose Eggs:

If you are collecting goose eggs daily, how do you store them (positioning


we found Humidity gauges on some of the thermometers at Lowes


 




Unless I'm overlooking it and please let me know. I don't see a temp (example- 60 degree room, 70 degree room, etc) and I don't see if they should be stored point down, point up, etc. Do you rotate horizontal, vertical, up, down? Do you rotate 3 times a day, 2 times a day, once a day?

Did I miss that? :idunno


And thanks for the tip on where to buy a gauge.
 
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Hi - I did cover that topic in a Guide to Humidity and Weighing. Here's an extract to help you.

Pete
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Egg Marking, Weighing and Storage
This is one of the most critical areas that owners should address as success may depend on the work done at this point. Eggs should be collected fresh and checked for damage. If badly soiled then we will usually wash them in tepid running water and dry them with paper kitchen roll. Next the eggs are weighed on a gram scale. We use a cheap kitchen weighing scale which measures up to 500 gram and easily obtainable. Then using a soft pencil, eggs are coded with parents details, date of laying and the weight. A cross is drawn on one side and a circle on the opposite. Eggs are then stored in a cool room (about 50F), laid on their sides and turned once daily. Usually we like to set eggs that are no more than 10 days old for best results.

This simple procedure pays dividends later. By checking and weighing the eggs fresh the owner has a starting point for incubation humidity settings. Once eggs are stored for any length of time then the weight becomes less accurate. For healthy chicks to hatch, eggs must lose approximately 15-16% of their fresh laid weight. Even in storage eggs will start to lose moisture (and therefore weight) which is why a cool room helps to maintain stable conditions. For shipped eggs we would recommend the same procedure as soon as received and then leave the eggs to stand for 24 hours. It is even more helpful if the owner candles the shipped eggs as this may reveal damage to the air cell and even hairline cracks.
 
Hi - I did cover that topic in a Guide to Humidity and Weighing.  Here's an extract to help you.

Pete ;)


Egg Marking, Weighing and Storage

This is one of the most critical areas that owners should address as success may depend on the work done at this point. Eggs should be collected fresh and checked for damage. If badly soiled then we will usually wash them in tepid running water and dry them with paper kitchen roll. Next the eggs are weighed on a gram scale. We use a cheap kitchen weighing scale which measures up to 500 gram and easily obtainable. Then using a soft pencil, eggs are coded with parents details, date of laying and the weight. A cross is drawn on one side and a circle on the opposite. Eggs are then stored in a cool room (about 50F), laid on their sides and turned once daily. Usually we like to set eggs that are no more than 10 days old for best results.


This simple procedure pays dividends later. By checking and weighing the eggs fresh the owner has a starting point for incubation humidity settings. Once eggs are stored for any length of time then the weight becomes less accurate. For healthy chicks to hatch, eggs must lose approximately 15-16% of their fresh laid weight. Even in storage eggs will start to lose moisture (and therefore weight) which is why a cool room helps to maintain stable conditions. For shipped eggs we would recommend the same procedure as soon as received and then leave the eggs to stand for 24 hours. It is even more helpful if the owner candles the shipped eggs as this may reveal damage to the air cell and even hairline cracks.

 


Thank you!
 
Hi - I did cover that topic in a Guide to Humidity and Weighing.  Here's an extract to help you.

Pete ;)


Egg Marking, Weighing and Storage

This is one of the most critical areas that owners should address as success may depend on the work done at this point. Eggs should be collected fresh and checked for damage. If badly soiled then we will usually wash them in tepid running water and dry them with paper kitchen roll. Next the eggs are weighed on a gram scale. We use a cheap kitchen weighing scale which measures up to 500 gram and easily obtainable. Then using a soft pencil, eggs are coded with parents details, date of laying and the weight. A cross is drawn on one side and a circle on the opposite. Eggs are then stored in a cool room (about 50F), laid on their sides and turned once daily. Usually we like to set eggs that are no more than 10 days old for best results.


This simple procedure pays dividends later. By checking and weighing the eggs fresh the owner has a starting point for incubation humidity settings. Once eggs are stored for any length of time then the weight becomes less accurate. For healthy chicks to hatch, eggs must lose approximately 15-16% of their fresh laid weight. Even in storage eggs will start to lose moisture (and therefore weight) which is why a cool room helps to maintain stable conditions. For shipped eggs we would recommend the same procedure as soon as received and then leave the eggs to stand for 24 hours. It is even more helpful if the owner candles the shipped eggs as this may reveal damage to the air cell and even hairline cracks.

 


Pete, can recommend a non-Brinsea humidity gauge for a Brinsea Eco 20 that will work and fit comfortably in the incubator? I'm desperate. :hit
 

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