GRAPHIC PICS of my day learning to caponize

From what I have read, I think a reason for cutting on the left side of the males is because the left testes is bigger than the one on the right and if you wanted to take both through the same cut, it would be easier to remove the smaller testes through the left cut than pulling the bigger testes through a smaller right cut for a smaller testes on the right side. Just throwing this out there. Let's see where it goes.

I have never seen any difference in the size. The American way is to start on the left side in case it isn't a boy, the female only has one ovary and it is on the left. The Chinese method is to go through the rt side first b/c they are suppose to be easier to get both out through the rt side, but they take the lt one out first (deepest). Poco has had decent success w/ one side removal of both, I have not though.
 
I have a question: When you put the loops around the testes and tighten it to lift it out, it sounds like it is easy in most young cockerels, why doesn't the wire cut everything that the testes is attached to? Or does it? Sylvia

Yes that is actually what you are cutting, the connecting tissue holding the teste in. The big problem comes when you have boys w/ testes that are attatched at both ends.
 
It went well, I actually thought it was a bit easier, testes still on the small side, but the opening can be done w/ the larger retractors and an tad more room.

Hey Kassaundra, wow the thread went crazy today. We have been talking about caponizing on two other threads and I sent somebody over to read page 109 for the new procedure pics. Some people are definitely interested. Still trying to get the video for poulardizing. I have the bigger retractors also. Should I, as a newbie, wait until they are a little bigger and use the larger one?

Edited for content: I was on another thread and heard that Hellbender will not put his video on the BYC. They are going to put it on youtube eventually. hum
 
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I have a question: When you put the loops around the testes and tighten it to lift it out, it sounds like it is easy in most young cockerels, why doesn't the wire cut everything that the testes is attached to? Or does it? Sylvia


The few times I tried the wire loop-staple-straw deal, the testes seemed to be sheathed with a membrane that just rejected the loop each time... I had no success with those attempts at all.
 
Could you post a picture of your elevators? How do you use them?

Here are pictures of the ones I made. I got the stuff from Hobby Lobby to make them.....the wire is jewelry/craft wire, The loops are different sizes, some are fixed and of various sizes, some will retract. I use the fixed ones to loosen the connective tissue on the lower pole of the testicle so I can slip a retractable one underneath the loosened part of testicle which helps keep it from coming off, and then wrap it around the upper pole and tighten it, then slowly lift and tighten to pull it loose.







I used the Chinese retractor for the first time yesterday, and it is awesome! These cockerels were my first of the year and older(10 weeks) than I typically caponize, so I didn't try using the thread wire tool. I just used what I had used in the past with the exception of the retractor. One ended up being a slip because the wire slipped as I tightened and lifted, and although it all came loose, a piece of it got cut off the end by the wire, then fell into the abyss and I couldn't find it. Since I got it loose intact before it got cut, then I cut off the blood supply to the smaller piece left inside, so it may still be a capon. I still call it a slip because I know for certain all of the testicle wasn't removed from the abdominal cavity. I color code my capons/slips with zip tie bands, so I know who is going to start showing rooster characteristics. Then I can determine if any of the ones that I thought were full capons were actually slips.
 
Hey Kassaundra, wow the thread went crazy today. We have been talking about caponizing on two other threads and I sent somebody over to read page 109 for the new procedure pics. Some people are definitely interested. Still trying to get the video for poulardizing. I have the bigger retractors also. Should I, as a newbie, wait until they are a little bigger and use the larger one?

Edited for content: I was on another thread and heard that Hellbender will not put his video on the BYC. They are going to put it on youtube eventually. hum

I would love to see the video.....let use know if you get it.

I have spoken to a caponizer in China, and they poulardize at 4 weeks. He said bleeding from the ovary is the biggest issue at that age because it is removed. All of the literature that I have read from the US discusses performing the procedure at 12-14 weeks so that a piece of oviduct including the portion next to the ovary is removed rather than the ovary itself. The literature states that removing that portion of the oviduct will prevent the ovary from developing. I am planning to dispatch a couple of pullets at that age to open and learn the anatomy, then see if I can successfully poulardize that way. As you know, it is supposed to be easier than caponizing once you learn how. I have 10 week old pullets so hopefully I will be doing it in a couple of weeks.
 
Questions for those who has caponized a rooster, will they stop crowing? If they do, how hong does it take for them to stop crowing?
 
Are any of the tools in the kits available similar to this?
The triangular forceps came with an antique Beouy set. They are available today, but are known as Pennington Forceps generally used in body piercing. Can be found via
Google or Ebay.


I have read that they get unusually long feathering.
Yes the feathering gets longer with age. >9 months.

Any one try the Pennington Forceps? They are a lot less expensive than the Tonsil Snares and some of them are disposable and have a really low price. The truth becomes apparent if someone can tell us which works or which works better. When the time comes I will probably get the set that Poco Pollo uses from China but in the mean time, I am reading up.
 
I bought the set from China I found the scalpel became dull really quick. Used it twice and already dull. Any experiences from who bought the same set?
 
I bought the set from China I found the scalpel became dull really quick. Used it twice and already dull. Any experiences from who bought the same set?

I didn't even try it. You can order 100 scalpel blades on ebay, and they usually include a handle. They cost $7-8 and many even have free shipping. When I caponize, one blade will usually take care of 6 birds.
 

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