GRAPHIC PICS of my day learning to caponize

Buddy- If they have also been off water since last night, my suggestion would be give them feed and water now. Then possibly give another go at it next weekend. Smaller birds may be a better first attempt as they are considerably more flexible. If you are caponizing the older birds for behavior modification then okay, If however you are trying to improve the meat qualities of an older bird your efforts will not improve them, old meat is still old meat.
jeff
 
what do I do? think I was over confident.
had a hard time with my first big roo. just slaughtered him 'cause I wasn't finding the right spot. the ribs weren't spreading. maybe cause he was old? anyway I've got his brother and 3 wyandottes that have been separated without food since yesterday morning. it's getting late. going to watch videos again. how long is too long to keep them fasting? when should I call it quits for this round and put them back in the pin? and then how long till I can separate without food again? help!

Are your retractors working? Spreading the ribs and keeping them open to the right amount is important. It is hard to find even a commercial one that works well, and I think it is the most important tool. The first retractors we were using were the gelpi's


th

They work better then the ones in the American caponizing kits, but not as well as the Chinese, they are easy and not that expensive on Ebay or Amazon
 
thanks for responding jeff and kass. i'm calling it quits for now. i'll order the gelpis and try again next weekend. i was just doing the older guys for practice. i didnt realize how much spring was needed to spread/hold the ribs.
 
thanks for responding jeff and kass. i'm calling it quits for now. i'll order the gelpis and try again next weekend. i was just doing the older guys for practice. i didnt realize how much spring was needed to spread/hold the ribs.

You couldn't know until you tried, good attempt, regroup and go again when you have the retractor.
 
I'm as stubborn and bull-headed as they come. I'm bound & determined to learn how to successfully caponize older roosters :old
Ok, I have a theory....why can't absorbable suture be wrapped around the testicle but instead of sawing, just tie it off tight? Probably in a double knot. Then use sponge clamps or some other tool and gently twist the testicle slowly around in circles until it detaches? I can usually manage to get the thread around the testicle but the process of "sawing" escapes me. The thread slips off or breaks every single time.
Also-the testicle can't live without a viable blood source. Slips happen because a tiny piece of teste is left behind attached to a blood source. I wonder if tying it off with a double knot and just *leaving the testicle in there would essentially caponize them? The testicle would have zero blood source and would die in a matter of hours, it wouldn't be able to reattach anywhere and magically regrow tissue after being dead tissue.
Any thoughts?
 
I'm as stubborn and bull-headed as they come. I'm bound & determined to learn how to successfully caponize older roosters
old.gif

Ok, I have a theory....why can't absorbable suture be wrapped around the testicle but instead of sawing, just tie it off tight? Probably in a double knot. Then use sponge clamps or some other tool and gently twist the testicle slowly around in circles until it detaches? I can usually manage to get the thread around the testicle but the process of "sawing" escapes me. The thread slips off or breaks every single time.
Also-the testicle can't live without a viable blood source. Slips happen because a tiny piece of teste is left behind attached to a blood source. I wonder if tying it off with a double knot and just *leaving the testicle in there would essentially caponize them? The testicle would have zero blood source and would die in a matter of hours, it wouldn't be able to reattach anywhere and magically regrow tissue after being dead tissue.
Any thoughts?

As it dies wouldn't it be a source of necrotic infection in the abd?
 
I have a question about comb shrinkage. This is a pic on my Blue Splash Marans that I caponized 2 months ago. His comb and wattles shrunk down this far within the first 2wks then no more:
400


400


My records from that day say I removed both testes intact and he has stopped all of the rooish behavior he had started displaying like crowing and posturing. He even seems to have dropped way down in the pecking order. So I'm asking if you guys who have more experience with capons think his combs and wattles will completely disappear over time or stay as is?

Just wanted to answer this. Comb development is something I watch closely. I've got....17 full capons now and 2 slips. The combs on my full capons look like your boy. They don't shrivel up into nothing but they're very small like a hen and pink, not red. Sometimes they look odd because they'll have some wattles but no comb. I'd bet money your guy is a full capon.
 
As it dies wouldn't it be a source of necrotic infection in the abd?

Not sure how that would work? If the bodies white blood cells would destroy it or what? I'm going to try it both ways if possible. I certainly have enough roosters to practice on :-/
Kass, did you get a Blue Cochin looking boy from her?
 
Not sure how that would work? If the bodies white blood cells would destroy it or what? I'm going to try it both ways if possible. I certainly have enough roosters to practice on :-/
Kass, did you get a Blue Cochin looking boy from her?

I hate to answer that question, but
hide.gif
yes.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom