Growing fodder for chickens

[Carolei]

I sprouted a 10 x 20 tray of wheat grass fodder for my five chickens because they don't get to free range and I want them to have fresh greens. They gobble up all the fodder I give them, and I'm wondering how much fodder it is okay to give them each day. They have access to layer feed at all times.

 

[RoseMarie1]

Clever!

WOW now that shelf is cool! I need one of those!

 

[okiemamachick]

Here's mine. The only seeds available to me in bulk (I didn't know about boss till just now) was whole wheat so that's what I'm using as of now I'm only 6 days in from top left to the bottom them the right side down is my rotation.

 

[okiemamachick]

How much fodder should I be feeding my 5 hens if they are allowed to free range and get scratch for treats?

 

[baylybreeze]

I'm on page 190 post 1900 but wanted to post something here on this thread.

I've been experimenting with fodder (barley) since Feb 2014, attempting to figure it out - first in the black plant trays with holes in the bottom and rinsing each tray by hand, then using holes in only one end and having the water drain down into other trays and down to a big bucket, and have had success with those on the small scales. But then was trying to get it better without the slime of the water going thru all the trays. - using fresh water for each tray and getting big enough trays to be able to feed all potential animals on the farm. (Horses, cows, sheep, chickens, rabbits).

I also wanted to do a better flood and drain method and with the potential of automating the watering and draining. I found some under the bed plastic totes and used a 2nd hand "halfpint" PVC shelving unit to adjust to the larger trays - allowing 2 trays per shelf, and plan on 7 shelves high once it's automated. I have 3 units so that would allow 6 trays per day with a 7 day growing cycle - or I'll have extras on some days. Each tray holds 7 cups of dry barley and at the moment I start 4 trays a day - soaking 28 cups in a 5 gal bucket for approximately 12 hours at first and then rinsing twice a day for 2 more days before going in the trays.

I bought some drains to put in my trays and only have 1 hole at one end of the tray. This are something I saw at the alpaca website. but I use just the screen part as it left too much water in the tray by using them the normal method.

I currently feed 2 horses - a tray a piece, and 60 chickens get 2 trays as well. Each tray is about 15 pounds when I feed them.

I'm wondering if those who have been feeding fodder to their chickens for long times (years) - what else you are feeding them. They can't live on fodder alone can they? They have to have calcium/grit, but what else??? I did start reading the fermenting thread and therefore did start fermenting their organic (no soy or corn) layer food, but I'd really like to know what is really needed for good consistent laying and health of my chickens. I'm also sprouting a few other types of seeds. I'd just like to get away from all the grain and expense especially in the winter. The summer they can free range most of the time.

Thanks for all the great information here.

 

[Bryanshantel]

I sprouted a 10 x 20 tray of wheat grass fodder for my five chickens because they don't get to free range and I want them to have fresh greens. They gobble up all the fodder I give them, and I'm wondering how much fodder it is okay to give them each day. They have access to layer feed at all times.

That should be good I was giving my four chickens much less than that and they were not eating it all and they hardly touched their laying pellets. Also I put crushed egg shells in the seed while it is growing and the chickens ate it up my eggs are nice and hard. I think if I give them more protein in form of meal worms and/or duckweed I can get rid of the laying pellets all together. we'll see!

 

[Bryanshantel]

I'm on page 190 post 1900 but wanted to post something here on this thread. I've been experimenting with fodder (barley) since Feb 2014, attempting to figure it out - first in the black plant trays with holes in the bottom and rinsing each tray by hand, then using holes in only one end and having the water drain down into other trays and down to a big bucket, and have had success with those on the small scales. But then was trying to get it better without the slime of the water going thru all the trays. - using fresh water for each tray and getting big enough trays to be able to feed all potential animals on the farm. (Horses, cows, sheep, chickens, rabbits). I also wanted to do a better flood and drain method and with the potential of automating the watering and draining. I found some under the bed plastic totes and used a 2nd hand "halfpint" PVC shelving unit to adjust to the larger trays - allowing 2 trays per shelf, and plan on 7 shelves high once it's automated. I have 3 units so that would allow 6 trays per day with a 7 day growing cycle - or I'll have extras on some days. Each tray holds 7 cups of dry barley and at the moment I start 4 trays a day - soaking 28 cups in a 5 gal bucket for approximately 12 hours at first and then rinsing twice a day for 2 more days before going in the trays. I bought some drains to put in my trays and only have 1 hole at one end of the tray. This are something I saw at the alpaca website. but I use just the screen part as it left too much water in the tray by using them the normal method. I currently feed 2 horses - a tray a piece, and 60 chickens get 2 trays as well. Each tray is about 15 pounds when I feed them. I'm wondering if those who have been feeding fodder to their chickens for long times (years) - what else you are feeding them. They can't live on fodder alone can they? They have to have calcium/grit, but what else??? I did start reading the fermenting thread and therefore did start fermenting their organic (no soy or corn) layer food, but I'd really like to know what is really needed for good consistent laying and health of my chickens. I'm also sprouting a few other types of seeds. I'd just like to get away from all the grain and expense especially in the winter. The summer they can free range most of the time. Thanks for all the great information here.

I know you wanted people with years of experience and I haven't found anyone yet that does it exclusivly. I have been trying for almost a year and this is what I found out with my chickens alone. I live in north florida and that might make some difference compared to your circumstances. During the summer I was free ranging my chicken and giving them wheat, black oil sunflower seed, and egg shells for calcium, they get the grit from the ground; fodder alone and they did great!! A little slow on egg laying at first but that was my mistake and going cold turkey on laying pellets. As fall set in and they were not getting out as much because I found out someone was feeding my dog raw dead chickens and he thought he would hunt some of mine I went to just fodder. the egg laying was still great. Then one day I was out side working and I let my chickens out since I could watch my dog. I finished my project and had to put the chickens up and I picked them up and noticed they had lost weight. I think this is because they didn't have enough protein in their diet. I am now growing meal worms and duck weed to supplement and when I have enough to start feeding regularly I will try again and keep a closer watch on their weight. So if you find out anything different let me know. I am going to try adding clover to my fodder this spring to see if that helps also.

 

[drow13f]

One thing that doesn't quite add up to me is that the grain by itself is only 50% digestible. Once it sprouts it becomes almost 100% digestible. The daily nutrient requirement for your animals isn't based on weight but on the nutrients in the grain. Most of the weight of fodder is just water weight.

You may be able to get 6lbs of fodder from 1lb of grain but if your animal requires 1lb of grain to meet its nutritional daily value and the grain is only 50% digestible then you still have to feed that animal 3lb of fodder to equal what it would have got with 1lb of grain. You can cut your feed bill in half but you can't replace fodder with grain at a 1 to 1 ratio or your animal will be deficient.

 

[lazy gardener]

My understanding from sprouting 101 is that enzymatic action makes the sprout more nutritious than the original seed. That being said, i think, and this is just my opinion... which is not worth a whole lot... I would never expect sprouts of any sort to meet all of my flock's nutritional needs. But, I do think that sprouts are a wonderful addition to the diet especially during the "frozen tundra" months.

 

[Chicken Judy]

I'm growing wheat too. My RIR's love it.