- Thread starter
- #11
- Sep 15, 2013
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Pin less peepers ordered,...that should be interesting !
thanks!
thanks!
Hack my chickens! What have I got here?? help please
- Thread starter vidpro23
- Start date
I like to use Rooster Booster Multi Wormer (I get mine here: http://www.abetterchicken.com/product/50101 ) which is a feed additive and easy to use. It is effective against 3 types of worms (round, capillary and cecal) and has no egg pull time as it is poorly absorbed by the gut and therefore not passed into the eggs. Since it's licensed for use in egg layers, the directions are right on the label on the container.
It will not do anything about external parasites. I use Permethrin Poultry Dust for external parasites which has no effect on the eggs (unless I guess you dusted it over eggs). You sprinkle on the birds (dusting well into the feathers) as well as spread it around the nest boxes and house. I sprinkle the dust on the floor of the coop and then put the bedding over it. You can get it at the feed store or simply google Poultry Dust. I've seen it on Amazon (but not the best price there).
Ivermectin/Eprinex will indeed work on a host of worms and external parasites. I would add that it is well absorbed systemically (that's why it's so effective since it is transported throughout the body) and I personally would not eat the eggs during the dosage period. It is not licensed for use with chickens in the US so you won't find it in a chicken formula, however, as WalkingOnSunshine stated it has been used off label as such for some time. Usual withdrawal period for those types of wormers is 14 days from last dose meaning if you dose once then dose again in 10 days (frequently done), you should pull eggs for a total of 28 days.
I'm not seeing evidence of lice or mites from your one photo...your one bird looks like over-mating damage with also being picked on by another hen. Chickens will pick on anything that looks red. Some No Pick ointment will help with that, or put a hen apron on her to protect her until her feathers grow back in.
Here is a good website to learn about what to look for in extermal parasites: http://www.the-chicken-chick.com/2012/08/poultry-lice-and-mites-identification.html
I agree a number of your birds are molting, and with shorter winter daylight, you will see quite a drop in egg production. Getting 3 to 5 eggs out of what, 10 hens?, would not be unusual for molting in late fall. My rule of thumb as I don't add lighting to my coop (burned one down that way) is 50% ratio of eggs to birds during winter especially with molting, and about 70 to 80% ratio in summertime.
You definitely have some Easter Eggers laying as the green/blue egg is from one of them. Your Buff Orpington or the Delaware mix is laying the light tan egg, and one of the production reds or red sexlinks the darker red brown egg.
If you would like a good dual purpose bird for laying and meat, New Hampshires are really good for that as well as Buff Orpingtons. I mix my flock so that I have better winter layers versus general layers. For winter laying I've added Delawares and Wyandottes and will be adding Buckeyes (although I've not tried them yet so can't attest). For general good layers, it is hard to beat the Red Sex Links and Black Sex Links.
I got a Silkie to brood for me, and it is a lot of fun to do so...plus it frees you from heat lamps and inside brooders...the hen does all the work.
Nice little flock. Great idea to buy all from the same farm. Always be careful when you add any other birds to this existing flock as older birds inevitably bring disease or parasites. Any new birds should be given at least 2 weeks quarantine away from your existing flock. Babies (chicks) should be raised until at least 8 to 12 weeks away from your existing flock to build their immune systems before being exposed to the older birds.
Good luck with your new farm.
Lady of McCamley
It will not do anything about external parasites. I use Permethrin Poultry Dust for external parasites which has no effect on the eggs (unless I guess you dusted it over eggs). You sprinkle on the birds (dusting well into the feathers) as well as spread it around the nest boxes and house. I sprinkle the dust on the floor of the coop and then put the bedding over it. You can get it at the feed store or simply google Poultry Dust. I've seen it on Amazon (but not the best price there).
Ivermectin/Eprinex will indeed work on a host of worms and external parasites. I would add that it is well absorbed systemically (that's why it's so effective since it is transported throughout the body) and I personally would not eat the eggs during the dosage period. It is not licensed for use with chickens in the US so you won't find it in a chicken formula, however, as WalkingOnSunshine stated it has been used off label as such for some time. Usual withdrawal period for those types of wormers is 14 days from last dose meaning if you dose once then dose again in 10 days (frequently done), you should pull eggs for a total of 28 days.
I'm not seeing evidence of lice or mites from your one photo...your one bird looks like over-mating damage with also being picked on by another hen. Chickens will pick on anything that looks red. Some No Pick ointment will help with that, or put a hen apron on her to protect her until her feathers grow back in.
Here is a good website to learn about what to look for in extermal parasites: http://www.the-chicken-chick.com/2012/08/poultry-lice-and-mites-identification.html
I agree a number of your birds are molting, and with shorter winter daylight, you will see quite a drop in egg production. Getting 3 to 5 eggs out of what, 10 hens?, would not be unusual for molting in late fall. My rule of thumb as I don't add lighting to my coop (burned one down that way) is 50% ratio of eggs to birds during winter especially with molting, and about 70 to 80% ratio in summertime.
You definitely have some Easter Eggers laying as the green/blue egg is from one of them. Your Buff Orpington or the Delaware mix is laying the light tan egg, and one of the production reds or red sexlinks the darker red brown egg.
If you would like a good dual purpose bird for laying and meat, New Hampshires are really good for that as well as Buff Orpingtons. I mix my flock so that I have better winter layers versus general layers. For winter laying I've added Delawares and Wyandottes and will be adding Buckeyes (although I've not tried them yet so can't attest). For general good layers, it is hard to beat the Red Sex Links and Black Sex Links.
I got a Silkie to brood for me, and it is a lot of fun to do so...plus it frees you from heat lamps and inside brooders...the hen does all the work.
Nice little flock. Great idea to buy all from the same farm. Always be careful when you add any other birds to this existing flock as older birds inevitably bring disease or parasites. Any new birds should be given at least 2 weeks quarantine away from your existing flock. Babies (chicks) should be raised until at least 8 to 12 weeks away from your existing flock to build their immune systems before being exposed to the older birds.
Good luck with your new farm.
Lady of McCamley
I wholeheartedly agree about getting a broody hen or two if you want to hatch chicks. It's SO much easier, and more pleasant. I use Dark Cornish as mamas, because they can cover a lot more eggs than a Silkie and Silkies wouldn't make it in my all large-fowl flock. The Dark Cornish are super aggressive about sitting and defending their chicks, so they are my favorites.
- Thread starter
- #14
- Sep 15, 2013
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thank you very much for your thoughts!
i only brought up the worming because several have mentioned it to me now.
Their poo looks good? I think? an occasional wet/foul smelling one,..but for the most part droppings seem well formed. I do see some tiny white dots in the poo. I dont know if that's eggs of something? or just a natural by product of something in their layer pellets or scratch grains
,...oh the conversation we never imagined we'd have!
i only brought up the worming because several have mentioned it to me now.
Their poo looks good? I think? an occasional wet/foul smelling one,..but for the most part droppings seem well formed. I do see some tiny white dots in the poo. I dont know if that's eggs of something? or just a natural by product of something in their layer pellets or scratch grains
,...oh the conversation we never imagined we'd have!
- Thread starter
- #15
- Sep 15, 2013
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SUPPPOSEDLY my buff is suppose to be a broody hen,..... I collect eggs several times a day so I havent let any collect enough to see I think.
Once you have eggs,....you let them collect and see if you have anyone that wants to sit? Or do you separate the broody hen completely from the others in her own pen? I'm a little confused about how that works. Would love to get a silkie or two for that purpose if need be.
Once you have eggs,....you let them collect and see if you have anyone that wants to sit? Or do you separate the broody hen completely from the others in her own pen? I'm a little confused about how that works. Would love to get a silkie or two for that purpose if need be.
Buffs can make good broodies and yes leaving some "eggs" down will help encourage a broodier type (but only if she is already wired to do so). I say "eggs" as golf balls or ping pongs work equally well without the egg waste if no one is in the mood.
I agree Silkies get no respect in a big flock which is why I have my broody Silkie in a separate brood hutch and run which is best for her and the whole process altogether as it keeps babies safer. Mine can cover 6 full size eggs and goes broody faithfully every 3 to 4 months so that matches my need for layer renewal. If I were doing meat birds I would go with more or bigger. I also have some full size hens that go broody seasonally and use them if I need a larger number of chicks.
I'm of the camp that worms are a fact of bird life since we have limited field rotation and wild birds and earth worms. All you can do is keep the load down which is why periodic worming is a good idea. I use meds seasonally and herbs between.
Lady of McCamley
I agree Silkies get no respect in a big flock which is why I have my broody Silkie in a separate brood hutch and run which is best for her and the whole process altogether as it keeps babies safer. Mine can cover 6 full size eggs and goes broody faithfully every 3 to 4 months so that matches my need for layer renewal. If I were doing meat birds I would go with more or bigger. I also have some full size hens that go broody seasonally and use them if I need a larger number of chicks.
I'm of the camp that worms are a fact of bird life since we have limited field rotation and wild birds and earth worms. All you can do is keep the load down which is why periodic worming is a good idea. I use meds seasonally and herbs between.
Lady of McCamley
Like Lady, I also deworm seasonally since I assume my birds are picking up all kinds of parasites while digging in the compost pile, etc. Also, my chickens are pastured and I know that the parasite load must be relatively high in the areas that they use all the time.
Your Buff will go broody when she wants to go broody. You can't make her want to sit on eggs--it's a hormonal shift that happens when it happens. You can encourage her by leaving eggs in the nest (we use golf balls, those eggs are too precious to leave in the nests and I worry about egg eaters, too) but nothing will make her go broody when it's not her time. It's also the wrong time of year for her to want to sit on chicks. I would not expect her to want to sit again until spring.
As to what you do--first, wait until the hen goes broody. You'll know this happens when she doesn't leave the nest for days. She'll flatten herself down in the nest, might growl at you when you reach under her to get eggs, and if you kick her off the nest, she'll sort of sit in a trance on the ground for a second or two before she gets up. She'll also have this determined look in her eyes--when you see it, you'll know.
Once she's broody, THEN gather your fertile eggs. She'll wait--hens don't count days. I would give her a secluded spot to brood, because if you leave her in the nest box, other hens will climb in there with her and lay eggs in the box, and that messes everything up. A little house works well. We use one attached to a very small run, so she can get up and stretch her legs every few days. If you decide to move her to a box, do it at night with a red light, and make sure that she can't see her old coop when she gets up the next morning or else she might be so upset and try so hard to get back to her old nest that she stops being broody. You'll want some way to lock her in, or she'll just run home and go back to her old nest.
Once you move her, sit her on golf balls for a day or two to make sure she's sitting tight. Then put the eggs under her. Make sure she has food and water nearby, but don't be upset if she doesn't eat or drink more than once every four or five days. After 20-21 days, the chicks will hatch. She'll wait with them in the nestbox for up to three days, then lead them out to find food and water. Make sure there's chick starter for them and a waterer they can use. The hen can eat the chick starter, and the extra protein will be good for her. Let her take her babies down to the flock if she wishes, she'll protect them. The rooster won't bother them in the slightest.
Have you checked out the BYC Learning Center? There are lots of articles about these sorts of things, and I think it would be a great resource for you. Look at the very top of the page, near the BYC logo.
Your Buff will go broody when she wants to go broody. You can't make her want to sit on eggs--it's a hormonal shift that happens when it happens. You can encourage her by leaving eggs in the nest (we use golf balls, those eggs are too precious to leave in the nests and I worry about egg eaters, too) but nothing will make her go broody when it's not her time. It's also the wrong time of year for her to want to sit on chicks. I would not expect her to want to sit again until spring.
As to what you do--first, wait until the hen goes broody. You'll know this happens when she doesn't leave the nest for days. She'll flatten herself down in the nest, might growl at you when you reach under her to get eggs, and if you kick her off the nest, she'll sort of sit in a trance on the ground for a second or two before she gets up. She'll also have this determined look in her eyes--when you see it, you'll know.
Once she's broody, THEN gather your fertile eggs. She'll wait--hens don't count days. I would give her a secluded spot to brood, because if you leave her in the nest box, other hens will climb in there with her and lay eggs in the box, and that messes everything up. A little house works well. We use one attached to a very small run, so she can get up and stretch her legs every few days. If you decide to move her to a box, do it at night with a red light, and make sure that she can't see her old coop when she gets up the next morning or else she might be so upset and try so hard to get back to her old nest that she stops being broody. You'll want some way to lock her in, or she'll just run home and go back to her old nest.
Once you move her, sit her on golf balls for a day or two to make sure she's sitting tight. Then put the eggs under her. Make sure she has food and water nearby, but don't be upset if she doesn't eat or drink more than once every four or five days. After 20-21 days, the chicks will hatch. She'll wait with them in the nestbox for up to three days, then lead them out to find food and water. Make sure there's chick starter for them and a waterer they can use. The hen can eat the chick starter, and the extra protein will be good for her. Let her take her babies down to the flock if she wishes, she'll protect them. The rooster won't bother them in the slightest.
Have you checked out the BYC Learning Center? There are lots of articles about these sorts of things, and I think it would be a great resource for you. Look at the very top of the page, near the BYC logo.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #18
- Sep 15, 2013
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Thanks for the great replies - so helpful! and I will check out the learning center as well 
learning as we go! http://www.facebook.com/PrimalAcresFarm
learning as we go! http://www.facebook.com/PrimalAcresFarm
Ok,..Im new to chickens and the farm we moved to - shocker
So long story short, I leave there with what I THINK* are 7 Americauna hens and an Americauna rooster (hatched may 2013), 1 Buff Orpington (2yrs old) and 3 Production Red Hens (1yr) that he threw in. The buff is my favorite - def the most personality. The reds seem friendly. and the other "Americaunas" are skittish and nervous. The rooster is a big sissy and all the girls chase him around from the looks of it. Not crowing either.
Now I've been told that's not what I have,... so I wanted to see what you guys think. I am only getting 3-5 eggs a day with this motley crew and I dont know whose laying and whose not. I dont know if the "americauna" girls are just not laying at all yet. I'm in north Florida and temps are still nice here. They have been in the coop/run now for going on 3 weeks to train them before I let them free range probably starting this weekend in a fenced in area
Opinions appreciated on breeds!
The black and white bird is most likely not a Columbian rock or a Delaware. Delaware has barred feathers in the hackle and tail, Columbian rocks have yellow legs. Light Sussex have the Columbian pattern and white legs.
I see EE's, RIR production, and a columbian pymouth rock
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