Heat lamp or no heat lamp for cold weather?

I suggest you read this article. It's a sticky and was written by a lady in Ontario so she should have some credibility when it comes to cold weather. I'll throw in her ventilation article too as lagniappe.

Pat’s Big Ol' Ventilation Page
https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=1642-VENTILATION

Pat’s Cold Coop (winter design) page:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=1642-winter-coop-temperatures

A few things I'd like to add. We all have different conditions, different coops, different birds, and different management techniques. There is seldom one and only one right answer for each and every one of us. A large walk-in coop built on the ground is a lot different than a small elevated coop.

The biggest danger from cold is frostbite, not them freezing to death. Frostbite can occur at any temperature below freezing, but moisture in the air is a huge factor. The more moist the air, the higher the danger of frostbite. Wind chill is a factor too. You need a well-ventilated coop to get the moisture out. There have been many posts on here where people have solved frostbite problems by providing more ventilation in the cold weather. You don't want a small tight coop that keeps the moisture in. You want a well-ventilated coop to get the moisture out.

There is also an ammonia issue. Ammonia is generated from their poop and is really hard on their respiratory system. If the poop is frozen or dry you are not going to get much ammonia, but if it thaws and is wet, it can generate a bunch. Ammonia is quite a bit lighter than air. You need a good vent over their heads when they are sleeping to get rid of the ammonia.

Something to consider on the size of the coop. In really cold climates there are going to be days that the chickens don't want to leave the coop. It might be snow on the ground or it might be a blowing blizzard. With them stuck in too small a coop for days on end, they can get bored and develop real behavioral problems, sometimes fatal behavioral problems.

It is really rare for a chicken to freeze to death. It can happen, but I really believe that chicken was weak to start with: sick, injured, infected something that made her susceptible and the stress from the extreme cold pushed her over the edge.

I really worry about providing heat in the coop for a couple of reasons. One is the fire danger. The other is them not being used to the cold so a power failure can be a real bad problem, maybe even fatal to them. I really don’t think I’d be doing my chickens any favors by getting them used to the extra heat. But if you feel you must provide heat, there are less risky ways to do it.

Instead of something that gets hot enough to start a fire, use a heat source that does not get hot enough to start a fire. Most of us have a lot of really flammable material in the coop. Use a ceramic heater or maybe an oil filled radiator set on low. There are still risks with the electricity in the coop, but a lot less than with a heat lamp.

I really think Pat’s articles should be required reading for anybody building a coop in colder weather. They are really good.

On the insulation issue. To me the big advantage of insulation is in the summer. Insulation can really reduce the heat in the coop if it is under the roof or on the sunny side. In the winter to protect against the cold the advantage is less obvious and less effective. But even with really good ventilation, good insulation can greatly reduce the rate of cooldown, especially if you have thermal mass in there providing some warming.
 
I suggest you read this article. It's a sticky and was written by a lady in Ontario so she should have some credibility when it comes to cold weather. I'll throw in her ventilation article too as lagniappe.
Pat’s Big Ol' Ventilation Page
https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=1642-VENTILATION
Pat’s Cold Coop (winter design) page:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=1642-winter-coop-temperatures
A few things I'd like to add. We all have different conditions, different coops, different birds, and different management techniques. There is seldom one and only one right answer for each and every one of us. A large walk-in coop built on the ground is a lot different than a small elevated coop.
The biggest danger from cold is frostbite, not them freezing to death. Frostbite can occur at any temperature below freezing, but moisture in the air is a huge factor. The more moist the air, the higher the danger of frostbite. Wind chill is a factor too. You need a well-ventilated coop to get the moisture out. There have been many posts on here where people have solved frostbite problems by providing more ventilation in the cold weather. You don't want a small tight coop that keeps the moisture in. You want a well-ventilated coop to get the moisture out.
There is also an ammonia issue. Ammonia is generated from their poop and is really hard on their respiratory system. If the poop is frozen or dry you are not going to get much ammonia, but if it thaws and is wet, it can generate a bunch. Ammonia is quite a bit lighter than air. You need a good vent over their heads when they are sleeping to get rid of the ammonia.
Something to consider on the size of the coop. In really cold climates there are going to be days that the chickens don't want to leave the coop. It might be snow on the ground or it might be a blowing blizzard. With them stuck in too small a coop for days on end, they can get bored and develop real behavioral problems, sometimes fatal behavioral problems.
It is really rare for a chicken to freeze to death. It can happen, but I really believe that chicken was weak to start with: sick, injured, infected something that made her susceptible and the stress from the extreme cold pushed her over the edge.
I really worry about providing heat in the coop for a couple of reasons. One is the fire danger. The other is them not being used to the cold so a power failure can be a real bad problem, maybe even fatal to them. I really don’t think I’d be doing my chickens any favors by getting them used to the extra heat. But if you feel you must provide heat, there are less risky ways to do it.
Instead of something that gets hot enough to start a fire, use a heat source that does not get hot enough to start a fire. Most of us have a lot of really flammable material in the coop. Use a ceramic heater or maybe an oil filled radiator set on low. There are still risks with the electricity in the coop, but a lot less than with a heat lamp.
I really think Pat’s articles should be required reading for anybody building a coop in colder weather. They are really good.
On the insulation issue. To me the big advantage of insulation is in the summer. Insulation can really reduce the heat in the coop if it is under the roof or on the sunny side. In the winter to protect against the cold the advantage is less obvious and less effective. But even with really good ventilation, good insulation can greatly reduce the rate of cooldown, especially if you have thermal mass in there providing some warming.

YET ANOTHER EXCELLENT POST. I HOPE EVERYONE READS THIS! You have answered a couple more questions I had and also commented on the fact that if heat is a bigger problem than cold, then insulation is great. Many chickens died this summer from the heat. My girls came into my insulated coop to escape the heat (I have a roof vent fan going near the ceiling to clear the poop fumes)
They did their dust baths in the shavings. Wish I could affford PDZ for the whole floor. Some have it. Great stuff.

Will diligently read the articles you provided. Love this site and this why. With humility we are all learning, contributing. being corrected in our thinking, and encouraging each other.

This thread may have saved some chicken and maybe human lives from fire this winter.
 
Quote:

I too spend hours with my birds they are my therapy
love.gif
.. I am just concerned about having a heating element in there with straw and other combustible things.. And I alos worry about getting them used to warm and then lie mentioned before a power outage which living out of city limits it happens alot and takes awhile for them to get it back on. Any suggestions or tips????
By keeping the heater on a low setting, it does not get hot to the touch. We can easily put our hands on the heater. I keep it behind a cage and I vacuum one a week to keep the dust out. Plus, the dial does not get bumped either. This type of heater has worked great for us.
 
By keeping the heater on a low setting, it does not get hot to the touch. We can easily put our hands on the heater. I keep it behind a cage and I vacuum one a week to keep the dust out. Plus, the dial does not get bumped either. This type of heater has worked great for us.
HHmmm. I'm glad it has worked out for you. I am not sure if I would need to do this here in Missouri, yea it gets cold but I think they can handle it with the coop being draft free and good insulation and ventilation like alot of posts have suggested..
 
QUOTE: By keeping the heater on a low setting, it does not get hot to the touch. We can easily put our hands on the heater. I keep it behind a cage and I vacuum one a week to keep the dust out. Plus, the dial does not get bumped either. This type of heater has worked great for us.

If I did decided to provide ANY heat now, I would use something like that, protected, but also on a timer, because when it would get that cold (REALLY cold) that I would want to use heat I don't think there's a low enough heat-setting on those ceramic heaters. Maybe a utility one (those all-metal ones that shut off if they're tipped)

Semi-new issue though and one I have strong concern about is the fact that the day is coming that we may not have the luxury of electricity and will have to trust our Maker for the care of much more that the birds. We had a huge storm this summer that cut out electricity in our area for thousands for almost a week. We still had electric and people streamed to our house for drinking water, showers and relief from the oppressive heat.

Maybe we need to start thinking about doing without some of the benefits of electricity (like heating our chicken coops and drying clothes in a dryer, overuse of AC, etc.) to acclimate us to future probabilities)

I guess this is a subject for the 'sufficient-self" thread but one that will impact our chicken coop design-plan and care and what we do in the winter.
 
This is a quote from Ridgerunner's Signature:

The spirit of liberty is the spirit which is not too sure that it is right.....Judge Learned Hand (The more sure your are that your way is the only right way, the more likely you are wrong.)


This is so applicable to many of us in this thread.

Thanks for Pat's articles. printed 'em off.
 
no heat is required, chickens are hardy animals.As long as they have a draft free,dry shelter theyill be fine. By adding heat you only increase your fire risk, the chance of attracting pests and it is also a big headache. Also DO NOT wrap up your run in plastic, this will hold in the moisture and possibly cause frostbite, and can be deadly because the pen will get quite warm during the day, but cool off drasticly at night, and this is very bad for your birds.However, very small bantams may need some heat, thier bodies just arn't large enough to hold in the warmth. For this you can use "heat tape", made for keeping pipes from freezing. you put this on the roost and it will keep them warm during the night.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom