Heat Plates vs Heat Lamps

I'm using a light just because I can't justify the cost of the plate. I'm also not sure if I could brood my other breeds using the plate. Can you brood turkeys and peachicks with the plate? Anyone know?

I don't know if you saw this part of my first post, but heat lamps cost more in the course of a few weeks. Heat lamp bulbs are typically 250 watt vs the large plate using around 65 watts and the small plate around 20 watts.

Here was my post explaining:
Cost - Although the heat plate I purchased (Large Premier) was $69, for me, the long term cost of a heat lamp would be more. The heat plate runs at 64 watts and a heat bulb at 250. Over the course of a month, it would cost around $4 to run a heat plate and $14 to run a lamp. I am raising batches of 40 chicks, so I would need two lamps at $28 a month and running for 2 months total. The cost of the lamps and bulbs would be around $30 with a bulb or $40 with heat emitters. The heating plate quickly pays for itself and saves money.
 
I'm using a light just because I can't justify the cost of the plate. I'm also not sure if I could brood my other breeds using the plate. Can you brood turkeys and peachicks with the plate? Anyone know?
Yes you can. And ducks and geese as well.

You save the difference within ONE brood of chicks.

Heat lamp + bulb = $____ Heat plate = $______ difference between the two is around $40 for me here.. It costs $25 a month to run a heat lamp non-stop. If you do 6 weeks, it's $37.50. Bulbs burn out.. So yeah.. Totally worth it IMO.
 
The idea is for the plate to touch or be just above their back when they are laying or crouching, so I'm not sure if you would need it up on bricks.
 
Will be interesting to see how they do with it once they are 3-4 weeks old.
That might be the height concern, Azure Acres.

Long term cost seems to be more efficient with the numbers stated, I fully understand it's hard to swallow that initial cost of a plate for a lot of folks...including me

I am going to start a hatch end of next week and am going to use a kill-o-watt device to track the power costs all through incubation and brooding...the unemployed engineer in me wanting to do some real cost analysis....I have an LG with turner and fan and will use a 60 to 100 watt white incandescent bulbs in a metal shade with a dimmer cord for brooder heat. I plan on controlling the brooder temps to 'harden' the chicks off quicker than 'usual' starting at about 3 weeks old to accelerate feather growth. Will be very interesting to see what the real numbers are on power usage.
 
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The idea is for the plate to touch or be just above their back when they are laying or crouching, so I'm not sure if you would need it up on bricks.
Last year was our first of turkeys and this year will be our first of hatching our own peacocks. We did a lot of turkeys last year and want to do even more this year. I guess I'm just not sure that this would be a possibility with numerous bigger birds.
 
Will be interesting to see how they do with it once they are 3-4 weeks old.
That might be the height concern, Azure Acres.

Long term cost seems to be more efficient with the numbers stated, I fully understand it's hard to swallow that initial cost of a plate for a lot of folks...including me

I am going to start a hatch end of next week and am going to use a kill-o-watt device to track the power costs all through incubation and brooding...the unemployed engineer in me wanting to do some real cost analysis....I have an LG with turner and fan and will use a 60 to 100 watt white incandescent bulbs in a metal shade with a dimmer cord for brooder heat. I plan on controlling the brooder temps to 'harden' the chicks off quicker than 'usual' starting at about 3 weeks old to accelerate feather growth. Will be very interesting to see what the real numbers are on power usage.

I'm wondering why they would need a heat source at 4 wks of age? They should be mostly fledged by then and can be hardened off for coop life by then, shouldn't they? By that time my broodies have joined the big flock up on the roost and have left the juniors in the bedding to sleep...I've seen 4 wk old chicks flying up to 4 1/2 ft. roosts to be next to mama.
 
I'm wondering why they would need a heat source at 4 wks of age? They should be mostly fledged by then and can be hardened off for coop life by then, shouldn't they? By that time my broodies have joined the big flock up on the roost and have left the juniors in the bedding to sleep...I've seen 4 wk old chicks flying up to 4 1/2 ft. roosts to be next to mama.


Azure Acres being in Missouri, might not have that issue....I was thinking Michigan and maybe furbabymum was thinking Wyoming.
 
I'm wondering why they would need a heat source at 4 wks of age? They should be mostly fledged by then and can be hardened off for coop life by then, shouldn't they? By that time my broodies have joined the big flock up on the roost and have left the juniors in the bedding to sleep...I've seen 4 wk old chicks flying up to 4 1/2 ft. roosts to be next to mama.
Depends on the breed. Some are definitely more fragile than others (ie: silkies)

I have a mama Silkie who is setting again and still has her 12 week old chick with her. She sleeps with her mama every night on the ground.. Because very few of my silkies roost (some do).

Also, my heritage Rocks take forever to feather out. I wouldn't put them out this time of year until they are 7-8 weeks.

However, last year I had my 7 week olds outside on February 28th in an unheated baby barn.




In the summer my chicks are off heat at 2-3 weeks. The good thing about heat plates is they outgrow them and will tell you when they don't need it any more.
 

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