Help! CRD? Confused with all the info

Discussion in 'Emergencies / Diseases / Injuries and Cures' started by rogermagno, Sep 1, 2013.

  1. rogermagno

    rogermagno New Egg

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    Sep 1, 2013
    Good Afternoon Guys and Gals,

    I have just come to the clear realization that I need some advice form more experience chicken owners. I have only had chickens for 19 weeks and have encountered some serious difficulties. Although there is amazing info available I will admit I have been a little overwhelmed with symptoms that can apply to many issues. Your guidance and advice to a greenhorn like myself would be greatly welcomed. I will do my best to state things clearly to make it easier for you all to help me troubleshoot. Thanks in advanced for everything.

    ORIGINAL SITUATION
    -I had 3 very healthy and beautiful hens. One silver laced Wyandotte and two rhode island reds. They were the picture of health for about 16 weeks.
    - I decided that I would like a total of 5 hens so I found someone in Brooklyn that was selling pullets on craigslist. I thought that getting pullets would be easier that to have to start with chicks again.
    -I picked up the two new hens (1 barred rock and 1 red sex link) and as soon as I got home I noticed they looked very different that my birds. They had pale combs and wattles, lethargic, unbalanced..etc. After having them in the same coop as my hens for 2 -5 days I noticed that they both had mites, lice and one of them (red sex link) was sneezing and had discharge from her nostrils.
    - after about 3-6 days in coop I isolated both birds in dog kennel.

    MISTAKES:
    -Among the many mistakes I have made, I have learned that not isolating the 2 new hens for 30 days was a severe mistake.
    -I'm pretty sure I will learn of other mistakes and please do not hesitate to tell me because I will use all these negative experiences as a learning experience.

    CURRENT SITUATION
    -The two new hens are still in isolation. The barred rock that was barely moving is now active and the red sex link is also very active and eating well.
    -The red sex link still has mucus discharge from her nostrils but not as bad as before
    -The barred rock still has pale comb but no evidence of discharge from nostrils or breathing problems.
    -One rhode island red has dischrge from nostrils and left eye. Left eye also has bubbles. She has very intermittent cough. I have held her close to my ear and I hear no rattling.
    -One silver laced also has discharge from nostrils no effect on eyes. No evidence of coughing
    -Second rhode island red shows no symptoms.
    - nostril discharge does not seem to have foul smell. Although I have no reference.

    ACTION TAKEN:
    -Isolation of two new hens although sickness spread due to initial contact with healthy flock.
    -Used old dominican republic farmer advice and rubbed lemon on nostrils of all chickens, careful to use a new piece for each
    -Started supplementing feed with mash made out of carrots, yogurt, kale. Have also kept giving them supply of herbs, kale, dandilions, fennel, mint, sorrel, comfrey and anything that I can spare from my herbs and garden.
    -cleaned entire coop.
    -Have alternated adding garlic and apple cider vinegar to water.
    - Bathed new chickens with soap and also provided a deep soak with water and apple cider vinegar.
    -Performed multiple dust (wood Ash, sand and DE) baths to all chickens. Original three never seem to have gotten lice.
    -Mites and lice seem to have been eliminated on new hens.

    Healthy chickens

    .[​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This is the Rhode Island red without any bubbles in left eye

    [​IMG]

    Just chicken chillin
    [​IMG]

    These are the two new additions after some TLC. Still have a long way to go in my opinion
    [​IMG]

    This is Rosalba With her issues. By this time I have heard her cough about 5 times and she has had discharge from nostrils for about a week and discharge from eye for about 3 days
    [​IMG]

    Please help my chicks and I with a plan of action to resolve matters. I would prefer to try everything before antibiotics if it is possible but if that is the only solution I will walk that road.
     
  2. BantamLover21

    BantamLover21 Overrun With Chickens

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    What you're dealing with might not be CRD; there are many respiratory diseases with almost the same symptoms (this makes it almost impossible to specifically diagnose a disease). This is good for you, because if it was CRD, then it would stay with your flock forever, reappearing every time the birds get stressed out.

    It sounds like you are providing some great supportive care for all of your hens. If you really want to avoid antibiotics, I would just continue giving them good care: make sure they eat/drink, keep them warm and as stress-free as possible, isolate them from other birds, etc. Sometimes supportive care is all it will take to boost a bird's immune system and get it on the way to recovery.

    However, if you want to at least try to get rid of the disease quickly, then I would suggest using an antibiotic, such as Oxytetracycline (sold under names like Tetroxy HCA-260, Terramycin, Duramycin, and LA200) or Tylan (either Tylan50 or Tylan200). Keep in mind when treating with antibiotic, though, that if the disease is caused by a virus, then the antibiotics will not be effective.
    Antibiotics like those I mentioned can typically be found at livestock supply stores, and are often sold for animals other than chickens.

    The Oxytetracycline dosage is 1/2 teaspoon powdered Oxytetracycline per quart of drinking water for 7-14 days. Do not put Apple Cider Vinegar in the water, or give probiotics/dairy products during treatment. Improvement can usually be seen after 3-5 days. If you decide to purchase Tylan (which is, IMO, the better choice), then I would suggest getting the injectable version. Giving injections isn't that difficult once you get some practice with it, and there is a lot of information on the Internet about the correct way to do it. And, the Tylan injectable works faster than the other form of Tylan, which is the water soluble form.

    The Tylan50 injectable dosage is 1cc for large-fowl, .5ccs for bantams, injected into one side of the breast once daily for 5 days. The Tylan200 injectable dosage is .5ccs for large-fowl, .1-.2ccs for bantams, injected into one side of the breast once daily for 3-4 days. When injecting, alternate the side of the breast that you inject into, and use a small gauge needle, as Tylan tends to irritate the injection area. Again, do not give dairy products, ACV, or probiotics during treatment; vitamins/electrolytes are fine. Improvement is usually seen after 2-3 days. If the only version of Tylan you can get is the soluble form, then I would suggest searching the Internet for the dosage for that, as I do not know it.

    Note to any other posters who read this: I know that there is a lot of disagreement about the correct Tylan dosage. I am only going by what I've used in the past. I have seen lots of other dosages mentioned in various places. Feel free to correct me if you know for a fact that I am wrong, as I would not want to endanger my birds or those of others.

    Well, hope I've helped and that your birds recover! [​IMG]
     
  3. dawg53

    dawg53 Humble

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    Jacksonville, Florida
    Bloodwork can be sent off to be tested for mycoplasma gallisepticum (CRD) and other diseases. Contact your county extension agent to find out how to go about it. It could also possibly be infectious bronchitis (IB.)
    Quarantining new birds should be at least 6 weeks. This will give time for most diseases to show themselves due to short and long incubation times. It will also give you time to closely inspect/treat birds for internal and external parasites and abnormalties.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. Beekissed

    Beekissed True BYC Addict

    Great to see you, Dawg!!! [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2013
  5. rogermagno

    rogermagno New Egg

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    Sep 1, 2013
    Hi Guys,

    I'm back and have to say that I really appreciate the community provided guidance. Although Beekissed gave me some good info on husbandry and it seems to have disapeared. I was really looking forward to keeping the info as reference. I was very interested on the fermented food info. I will look for the fermented food info here but if I could get those links again it would be appreciated. Did I somehow delete a post?? Well I'm back and thanks a bunch.

    Actions Taken so far:

    -Established a deep litter in the run and would like to know if a deep litter in the coop is recommended *** well.
    -Planned out a large vent/window pane for on the door to increase sunlight in coop.
    -Have continued giving them plenty of time ranging my tiny yard, picking greens and scratching.
    -Have continued ol' dominican farmer remedy of lemon rubbed beaks and nostrils. as well as feeding them garlic.
    -have verified elimination of external parasites.
    -Purchased cold pressed castor oil, but do not have the post from beekissed to verify usage.
    -Have continued addition of garlic to water
    -The ladies look a lot better and there is still some boogies and coughing but I have decided to fallow the road less traveled even if it a bit more difficult.
    -Will evaluate in situation in 2 months.
     
  6. Beekissed

    Beekissed True BYC Addict

    I would establish it in the coop as well, with plenty of ventilation to go along with.
    The castor oil isn't an absolute...I'd just place a dropper full in each bird and monitor results. One site stated one mL per bird for constipation issues but this isn't anything to do with that and the dose I gave to the birds here didn't induce any kind of loose stool of sorts, so no worries about causing diarrhea.
    Fermented feed info can be found in the meat bird forum...a huge thread you cannot miss there. There is a smaller one in the feed and water section as well.

    Sounds like you've made a good start and I will be pleased to hear of their progress as time goes along.
     

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