help my roosters legscales are stiking up

[Michael Apple]

You can use 1/4 Kerosene to 3/4 Linseed oil. Mix it together in a jar and soak each leg in it for a couple minutes. You can brush it on too, but I think soaking is more effective causing the oil to penetrate beneath the scales where the nasty little mites live.

There's also a product called Sulfur Ointment made by Rooster Booster. You can use surgical gloves and gently massage it over the whole leg and toes. Both treatments should be done a couple times a week until the scales flake off. You'd be wise to clean out your coop thoroughly remove all shavings and dust, disinfect, let dry, then treat the floors, walls, nests, and roosts, paying attention to the bottoms, tops, and sides of the roosts with Ravap E.C. I clean my entire coops with this process every three months, spraying or painting the roosts about once a month. Make sure it is dry before letting your birds back in the coop. My bird's legs look good and they never have mites.

 

[Demosthine]

You can use 1/4 Kerosene to 3/4 Linseed oil. Mix it together in a jar and soak each leg in it for a couple minutes. You can brush it on too, but I think soaking is more effective causing the oil to penetrate beneath the scales where the nasty little mites live.

There's also a product called Sulfur Ointment made by Rooster Booster. You can use surgical gloves and gently massage it over the whole leg and toes. Both treatments should be done a couple times a week until the scales flake off. You'd be wise to clean out your coop thoroughly remove all shavings and dust, disinfect, let dry, then treat the floors, walls, nests, and roosts, paying attention to the bottoms, tops, and sides of the roosts with Ravap E.C. I clean my entire coops with this process every three months, spraying or painting the roosts about once a month. Make sure it is dry before letting your birds back in the coop. My bird's legs look good and they never have mites.

 

I would not expose any animal directly to kerosene. It isn't scientifically proven to cause skin cancer with repeat exposure. The Vasoline and Nu-Stock methods are far safer and more widely accepted.

Also, look at the old-timer thread for the tried and true methods. Painting and spraying the coops monthly is excessive and costly. There are several more natural and effective methods of mite control. I'll look in Storey's Guide tomorrow for coop treatment.

 

[Michael Apple]

I would not expose any animal directly to kerosene. It isn't scientifically proven to cause skin cancer with repeat exposure. The Vasoline and Nu-Stock methods are far safer and more widely accepted.

Also, look at the old-timer thread for the tried and true methods. Painting and spraying the coops monthly is excessive and costly. There are several more natural and effective methods of mite control. I'll look in Storey's Guide tomorrow for coop treatment.

The Sulfur Salve works well enough and is far more effective than petroleum jelly. I haven't seen any evidence that a mixture of kerosene/linseed is dangerous unless one is smoking around it. I know it has cleared up many scaly leg problems over the years quickly. The sprays put out by Manna Pro and others don't work at all because they do not penetrate beneath the scales. Nobody knows the withdrawal period for Ivermectin, so that's out of the question for me.

All premise sprays have a 28-30 day residual, so while the infestation of scaley leg mites are present, there's nothing excessive about painting the roosts once a month until the infestation is under control. Every three months of coop cleaning has been beneficial for my flock. Problems that once were, are no more because of my program. There are no short cuts or lazy ways out of keeping poultry.

 

[Demosthine]

After looking more at the resources, Storey's, the old-timer thread and a couple of University publications, the treatment using a penetrating oil like linseed oil or olive oil, petroleum jelly, Nu-Stock, or similar is definitely the recommended treatment for the birds. I have seen references to using the kerosene/linseed mixture I referenced on the coop and roosts, but not on the actual birds.

The problem with kerosene, sulfur salve and the likes are that they dry out the area. Not only do they dry out the mites, but they further dry out your chicken's feet. For an already problem area, that adds more problems than it helps. Sure, it may be "effective," but is not the best course of action.

For treating and maintaining the coop, there are several methods that work. One is to spray with the kerosene/linseed mixture above for immediate treatment, and then periodic cleaning with regular soap and water will help ensure the cleanliness. You can also dust the coop with diatomaceous earth, sevin dust, or the likes. Use it in moderation because excessive amounts can cause respiratory issues primarily in humans, but sustained heavy use can affect the poultry as well.

Preventative maintenance comes next. As mentioned, periodic dusting of the coop will help keep them away. Remember, you need to dust more frequently with the current situation because you will have to catch the mites of the eggs hatch again. Storey's recommends a thorough, annual cleaning of the coop in spring because the disease-causing organisms build up primarily during summer warmth. Choose a warm, sunny, dry day to completely clean it out. Mix one tablespon chlorine bleach with one gallon boiling water and use it to disinfect all food and water items, nesting boxes, roosts, and such. Scrub the entire coop down well to ensure it is all cleaned. Pay close attention to the corners and seems where wood meets. Make sure to let the coop completely air dry before replacing the bedding and allowing the chickens back inside.

For the birds themselves, you should always have a dust bath accessible to allow them to cleanse and prune themselves. It helps them rid their feathers and bodies of any parasites. It's quite entertaining to watch, as well. This can be as simple as course sand, such as those found in the river bottoms. A lot of old-timers will lace it with wood ash or even keep a dust bath of strictly wood ash. You will find the birds will periodically take dust baths and are much happier for it.

The Sulfur Salve works well enough and is far more effective than petroleum jelly. I haven't seen any evidence that a mixture of kerosene/linseed is dangerous unless one is smoking around it. I know it has cleared up many scaly leg problems over the years quickly. The sprays put out by Manna Pro and others don't work at all because they do not penetrate beneath the scales. Nobody knows the withdrawal period for Ivermectin, so that's out of the question for me.

There is ample evidence that kerosene use on and around animals is toxic to them. In fact, even Raising Chickens for Dummies, the official chicken guide of BYC has a warning in their How to Get Rid of Your Chicken's Parasites section stating: Don’t try to eliminate parasites by spraying your housing with old-time remedies like kerosene or fuel oil. These products are environmental pollutants that cause more harm than good, and using them this way is illegal. They also can have toxic effects on your birds because they can be absorbed into your bird’s skin.

 

[Michael Apple]

After looking more at the resources, Storey's, the old-timer thread and a couple of University publications, the treatment using a penetrating oil like linseed oil or olive oil, petroleum jelly, Nu-Stock, or similar is definitely the recommended treatment for the birds. I have seen references to using the kerosene/linseed mixture I referenced on the coop and roosts, but not on the actual birds.

The problem with kerosene, sulfur salve and the likes are that they dry out the area. Not only do they dry out the mites, but they further dry out your chicken's feet. For an already problem area, that adds more problems than it helps. Sure, it may be "effective," but is not the best course of action.

For treating and maintaining the coop, there are several methods that work. One is to spray with the kerosene/linseed mixture above for immediate treatment, and then periodic cleaning with regular soap and water will help ensure the cleanliness. You can also dust the coop with diatomaceous earth, sevin dust, or the likes. Use it in moderation because excessive amounts can cause respiratory issues primarily in humans, but sustained heavy use can affect the poultry as well.

Preventative maintenance comes next. As mentioned, periodic dusting of the coop will help keep them away. Remember, you need to dust more frequently with the current situation because you will have to catch the mites of the eggs hatch again. Storey's recommends a thorough, annual cleaning of the coop in spring because the disease-causing organisms build up primarily during summer warmth. Choose a warm, sunny, dry day to completely clean it out. Mix one tablespon chlorine bleach with one gallon boiling water and use it to disinfect all food and water items, nesting boxes, roosts, and such. Scrub the entire coop down well to ensure it is all cleaned. Pay close attention to the corners and seems where wood meets. Make sure to let the coop completely air dry before replacing the bedding and allowing the chickens back inside.

For the birds themselves, you should always have a dust bath accessible to allow them to cleanse and prune themselves. It helps them rid their feathers and bodies of any parasites. It's quite entertaining to watch, as well. This can be as simple as course sand, such as those found in the river bottoms. A lot of old-timers will lace it with wood ash or even keep a dust bath of strictly wood ash. You will find the birds will periodically take dust baths and are much happier for it.



There is ample evidence that kerosene use on and around animals is toxic to them. In fact, even Raising Chickens for Dummies, the official chicken guide of BYC has a warning in their How to Get Rid of Your Chicken's Parasites section stating: Don’t try to eliminate parasites by spraying your housing with old-time remedies like kerosene or fuel oil. These products are environmental pollutants that cause more harm than good, and using them this way is illegal. They also can have toxic effects on your birds because they can be absorbed into your bird’s skin.

All the years I've used sulfur ointment by Rooster Booster, I've never had the scales dry out from treating scaly leg. I've used permethrin mixed with mineral oil and kerosene mixed with linseed. Neither of those, in my opinion worked as well as the sulfur ointment. You can read all the books you want, good and bad, but when it comes to 35 years of keeping birds, I can say Damerow doesn't provide too much valuable information in her books. There are much better authors out there. Strecker, Plamondon, Jull to name a few.

Dusting the coop with DE isn't my idea of promoting health. Chickens breathe the dust by scratching in the nests and the floor. It causes respiratory problems. It won' stay on the roosts which is why emulsified concentrates work better. You claimed my methods of coop cleaning were excessive and costly. They aren't compared to what you quoted. They are practical and ensure my coops stay clean and disease free. Just because some suggestion sounds environmentally hip, doesn't mean it is sensible.

Chickens dusting won't keep them mite free. They do enjoy it and should have areas to do so. In regard to the kerosene, again there are better alternatives like sulfur ointment or even Bag Balm. The fact is a small amount of kerosene won't jeopardize the health of the bird with scaly leg mites. I never recommended one should spray their housing down with kerosene or fuel oil and have never heard any old time poultrymen recommend it. Blackleaf 40 was a nicotine sulfate product that was safe to use on roosts and even birds so long as people followed directions. But since a few imbeciles or irresponsible people were used as examples for the nanny state to outlaw it, the product is history. All the years of keeping birds, I've had healthy birds, not because I was neglectful or used harmful chemicals. It wasn't until 2006 when sick birds started revealing genetic problems from certain hatcheries that it became my problem. You can try any product or method recommended by an author of a book. Just make sure it works without endangering you or your birds.

 

[Michael Apple]

Rooster Booster Sulfur Oinment ingredients:
Petrolatum USP, Aloe Vera Gel, Sulfur Flour,
Salicylic Acid, Phenoxyethanol (and) Methyparaben
(and) Butylparaben (preservatives), Tea Tree Oil, Vitamin E,
Vitamin C, Calendula, Goldenseal extract.

Use it. It is safe and it works.

 

[Buffer]

Where would one find Rooster Booster Sulfer Ointment?

 

[Michael Apple]

Where would one find Rooster Booster Sulfer Ointment?

My feed store carries it. You could also find it online at Smith Poultry and Game Bird Supply http://www.poultrysupplies.com/index_files/Page398.htm

 

[snowstar5]

Thank you guys but my chickens are free range and I can't get to there roost.

 

[chickengeorgeto]

To snag a free range chicken while he is sitting on a high roost like a tree limb, or a barn rafter at night, take a long (16 foot is not too long) 1 X 4 or 1 X 6 board and while an assistant shines a bright light in the chickens face to distract him, gently set the 4 or 6 inch wide section of the board against the rooster's breast, just in front of his feet. Now gently push up and back with the board and as the chicken begins to worry bout his balance he will ALWAYS transfer his feet onto the board. Now keep him dazzled by the light until you can slowly lower him and your assistant can get his hands on the chicken.

The mite that causes scabies in humans is very likely closely related to the scaly leg mite. The same cream used on a human baby's' tender skin to kill scabies is 5% pyrethrin and it will knock out scaly leg mites quickly. I have smeared numerous jars of the old time Carbolated Vaseline on the legs of chickens with scaly leg. It works mostly as a suffocate. A couple of mil g of 40% pyrethrin well mixed into a jar of Straight Arrow brand Main and Tail Hoof Maker is a wonderful substitute for Carbolated Vaseline. And it has a handy dispenser pump as well.

If you don't treat your roost poles your chickens will get scaly leg again.