HELP!! Need coop design advice! Criticize my sketches!!

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by gen2racer, Oct 30, 2015.

  1. ChickenCanoe

    ChickenCanoe True BYC Addict

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    Nov 23, 2010
    St. Louis, MO
    I have gutters on most of my coops but I know most don't. It makes all the difference. French drains are good for the rest.
     
  2. gen2racer

    gen2racer Out Of The Brooder

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    Oct 12, 2015
    Roy, WA
    My Coop
    Thanks for all the tips and constructive criticism. I started the construction this weekend and have taken them into consideration. I have decided to only make the coop 30" tall instead of 40", and will definitely be putting roosts in the run. Here is one picture from the build, more to come.
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  3. DeedeesInn

    DeedeesInn Out Of The Brooder

    hi, the discussion about coop height got me to measure the height of my coop. It is at 35", and the hens just fly right into it when the big doors are open. I think 40 inches high would really be just fine! I tried the wheelbarrow idea of yours when I cleaned out my coop yesterday, and that is a great idea. To get back to coop height: Hens instinctively want to go to a high place at sunset, to be safe, so a coop that is a bit high up feels good to them. For me, 35 inches high is comfortable for cleaning access. I added a pic to my "Deedee's Inn" album that shows the roost and little ramp I have in their run that gives them access to their coop. It is the second-to-last picture. I also thought it might be a little more rodent proof than a ladder, but then I saw a mouse or small rat run up the hardware cloth one night, and realized that rodents can access anything via the hardware cloth. A roost definitely stays cleaner than a ladder (poop).

    My hens like the various roosts they have in the different runs for daytime hanging out, and they seem to love their coop roosts for the night. I don't have roosts in their yard because I don't want to give them any help flying out over the fence around the yard.
     
  4. gen2racer

    gen2racer Out Of The Brooder

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    Oct 12, 2015
    Roy, WA
    My Coop
    Just a quick update. Found some free metal roofing, and the rest is free pallets from work. Total cost is up to about $80. Mostly fasteners.
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  5. DeedeesInn

    DeedeesInn Out Of The Brooder

    hi gen2racer,
    looks great!! My coop has free metal roofing too! Maybe you can find an old hand-me-down window for the noth side of the coop (to avoid direct sunlight). Also, you could check my coop pics for ideas of porthole windows made of old glass lids or plates. My chickens love their window seats on the roost :eek:) Someone did point out that round glass shouldn't face the sun, given the possible risk of fire from curved glass. FOr cleaning, it loooks like your coop is high enough to park a wheelbarrow underneath and then you can scrape all the floor covering with poop right into the wheelbarrow.

    Happy building!
    DeedeesInn builder/housekeeper.
     
  6. gen2racer

    gen2racer Out Of The Brooder

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    Oct 12, 2015
    Roy, WA
    My Coop
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    Another little update. Doors and plywood on both sides. Next is hardware cloth and setting the posts in the run; trim and paint on the coop. The chicks are going in this weekend so it has to be done!
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2015
  7. DeedeesInn

    DeedeesInn Out Of The Brooder

    Looks great! Does it have a window? And where's the little chicken entrance door?
    How are the new chickens?
     
  8. Egghead_Jr

    Egghead_Jr Overrun With Chickens

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    Oct 16, 2010
    NEK, VT
    I get it now. There are access doors on both sides of the coop. I was going to say with 5ft to reach and nesting boxes in your way it would be hard to clean. Looks like it will work quite well now. You'll want to put a board across the two sides to hold in the bedding material is all. If you didn't cut out the pop door yet keep in mind the depth of bedding you want and add two inches. My openings are 6 inches above floor and have a 1x6 pine board longer than the access door and held in place once the bedding is in. Cleaning time pull up the board and scrape bedding into wheel borrow. My coop is leggy too for cleaning ease and to accommodate large hanging feeder underneath.

    Good thinking to lower the wall height too. 48" is just too high, wasted space and added weight really. I see ventilation on high slope (assume it will be hardware cloth) but don't see any on low slope. If not there should be some there too for a forced air effect to push the moisture out. Doesn't need t be nearly as wide as you allowed on the high end. A 3" hole saw and few minutes would pop in 4 or 5 holes.
     
  9. gen2racer

    gen2racer Out Of The Brooder

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    Oct 12, 2015
    Roy, WA
    My Coop
    I have not yet cut the pop door. It's been super cold for WA in November and I am battling the frozen waterers! But a light bulb and cinder block has solved the problem. Great put on the 1x6s to keep the bedding in, it falls out every time we open the doors. The chickens are now 8 weeks and I need to finish the run so they can stretch their legs. So busy!
     
  10. gen2racer

    gen2racer Out Of The Brooder

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    Oct 12, 2015
    Roy, WA
    My Coop
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    Got the run roof on, finally!
     

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