Help please, Eggbound, tried lots of things, WARNING GRAPHIC PICTURE

[Three Cedars Silkies]

Warm water bath for looooooooong time. She has to sit it in until she relaxes enough for the egg to come through.

Also, the preparation H is for shrinking tissue. I wouldn't use it for this. That could be keeping her tissues from relaxing enough for the egg to come out. AFTER she lays, then use the Prep H. Find the kind of KY that come with a dispensing tube on it. When she isn't pushing, insert the nozzle and squirt KY as far in as you can.

She'll need to see a vet soon if she doesn't pass it...or she will pass.

Oh...give her a tums crushed in water. Vet usually give calcium gluconate injections for egg-binding.

 

[LilBrat]

ok.. half an hour of lubing with KY only made her tired, and poop more. At least we know she's eliminating stuff that needs to come out so she doesn't poison her own blood.
We thought about the dremel tool but every time I touch the egg while in protrusion state, she pulls it back in and touching it while sucked in it moves. We may give the dremel tool a shot anyway.. poor thing looks miserable that she's not out in the yard with everybody else. I'm just hoping she's only got one in there and am going to cover the cage now. I hadn't thought of the darkness keeping her from making more.. figured the blockage would do that.
I'm not answering y'all fast because I'm out with her.
After the first bath (half an hour) I didn't realize that another one would do anything different. The water was at about 107 degrees.. is that warm enough? too warm? much hotter and I can't get my own hands in it.

 

[LilBrat]

ok.. sending hubby to the nearest store (10 miles or so) for tums

and should I be giving her asprin water to help with pain now?

 

[banter]

If it is between a slow death and breaking the egg I'd break the egg. Go online and look at some of the exotic bird sites. Parrots get egg bound a lot.What if you use a dremmel and catch the shell with needle nose pliers or tweezers? you might need two people both sides. before she pulls it in? Shells are pretty sturdy. Then a bath in peroxide water? Any vet you can call? Mineral oil is more stable. Good luck!

 

[thechickenchick]

That poor thing! I also can't imagine how frustrated and helpless you feel. You need to know that you are doing all the right things for her. Hang in there. I will be praying for the best outcome.

 

[banter]

Here's oneTreatment:

This is a life-threatening condition and should be addressed by a qualified avian vet. Your vet may discuss:

* Lupron shots
* Spaying your hen as a permanent solution

The following has also resolved this problem for some birds:

* Place the bird into a steamy room, such as bathroom with shower on. Desired temperature: 85-90 degrees Fahrenheit / Humidity: 60%. Place bird on wet towel. Provide bird with high-calorie, high-calcium food.

* Massage the muscles in that area with olive oil. In many cases, this lead to a successful passing of the egg. Note: there is a risk associated with messaging this area. It could cause the egg inside to break - which is life-threatening. Be very careful! If in doubt, it's always best to have the vet take care of it ...
. Know if your bird is a female

2. Recognize symptoms (bottom of cage, fluffed up, straining, nesting behaviors
,quiet or depressed, perching in a hunched over posture, with abnormal appetite
and droppings)

3 Feel for a firm swelling (an egg)between the end of her breastbone and her
vent

4.Call Vet

4. Provide heat and humidity if treated at home. One way to do this is by placing
the bird in the bathroom and run a very hot shower

5.Give bird calcium. Injectible is best (neocalglucon .1cc per cockatiel size bird)
but oral is ok as well

6. If you can't get to the vet you can attempt to break the egg and remove it
carefully with tweezers taking care not to cut the bird's cloaca or vent with the
broken pieces


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Egg Binding


IS YOUR DUCK STUCK? or YOU’RE HEN HELD HOSTAGE?

Egg Binding by K. J. Theodore

EGG BINDING is a serious disorder that most commonly affects a young hen when laying her first egg, but can affect any hen at any time.

Some cases are so severe that the only possible solution is surgical, and can result in a complete hysterectomy. This would require the assistance of a qualified Veterinarian and must be done under a general anesthetic. But I'd like to discuss the cases that would be considered mild to moderate, where the brave and curious Fancier is interested in trying to help out their hen.

The first thing I highly recommend (although I realize not always practical), is to obtain an x-ray of the bird's abdomen. This is a valuable tool in confirming that you truly have an egg bound problem. Swollen and distended abdomens can be symptomatic of other more serious disorders. If the x-ray shows a distinctly formed and calcified egg, then you have a certain course of action. If the x-ray shows no distinct egg formation, then you can be dealing with a shell-less egg and that can get complicated. You may even be dealing with an internal layer. However, if the hen's internal structures are fuzzy and indistinct, you could also be dealing with an abdomen that is filled with fluid. In this case, you'd be dealing with a completely different problem.

A fluid-filled abdomen could be a sign of peritonitis - egg related or otherwise. Whether caused by egg material never passed or not, a good course of action is to immediately put the hen on a good broad-spectrum antibiotic, such as Baytril. (Good SUPPORTIVE THERAPY should be included in any treatment program - May issue.) If the condition does not improve through the course of treatment, then a local Veterinarian should be consulted for possible fluid removal and to determine the next course of action.

If the x-ray confirms the presence of a calcified egg (egg with a shell), and the hen is not in any serious distress, then you can follow a conservative and simple medical and supportive approach.

Begin by making sure the hen has adequate protein, calcium, selenium, and vitamins A and E, since dietary insufficiencies can be a cause of egg binding. A preventative course of antibiotics is good too, but make sure you add a good probiotic during and after treatment.

Be sure the hen has plenty of fresh water to drink (hand water if necessary), and lubricate the cloaca (vent). Use a water based lubricant such as K-Y Jelly. This should be applied at regular intervals. Attempt to get some just inside the cloaca - but be cautious not to cause a tear in delicate tissues. If you can see the tip of the egg through the cloaca, even better - lubricate it too. An additional step that can be taken is to attach a heat-softened piece of small tubing to a 3 cc syringe and inject warmed KY or warm soapy water (mixed with sterile water) via the tube up past and around the egg.

A warm, moist environment is helpful. If you have a duck, you can begin by offering her a very warm bath. (Bantams fit nicely in the kitchen sink - much to the dismay of my spouse.) If you can find a small screen to lie over the top and put something heavy on the edges to secure it, then you can walk away and let the girl float about for awhile. If you have a hen, then you'll have to support her so that the bottom half of her body is submersed for about fifteen minutes. As long as the bird seems fine otherwise, I would just repeat this at regular intervals, and give Mother Nature a chance to work.

If you can palpate the egg to determine that it's close to delivery, and your bird seems to be having a hard time, you can go beyond the warm water baths and put her into an incubator. Set the temperature between 85-90 degrees with high humidity or place wet towels inside the incubator. Make sure the bird has a fresh airflow. Most incubators have a good intake and exhaust system for fresh air - but make sure the air holes are open so that you don't suffocate your bird. Don't leave her in there more than a few hours. And keep an eye on her condition.

If she still hasn't expelled the egg, and you don't think she's going to on her own, then you can move to manual manipulation. This only applies if she is still bright and not in shock. Palpate the abdomen to find the location of the egg and gently manipulate it in an effort to move it along. GENTLE is the key word here. If manual manipulation fails and you can see the tip of the egg, another option is aspiration, implosion, and manual removal.

First, get someone to help you hold the bird very securely while you work (preferably not upside down). Then, using a syringe and a large needle (18ga.), draw the contents of the egg into the syringe. After aspiration of the contents, gently collapse the egg all around. You want to do this gently in order to keep the inner membrane of the egg in tact, which will keep the eggshell fragments together.

Last, gently remove the egg. (Copious amounts of lubrication would be good here.) Go slow and try to keep the shell together (although broken). If all fragments do not come out, they should pass, along with remaining egg content, within the next several days.

These are simple, at-home remedies for a condition that can become very serious. There are more methods available for the more difficult cases, but too many to list here. If your hen isn't helped by the methods I've listed, then either the egg binding is serious, or you have a different problem altogether. If it is a severe case of egg binding, it may be serious enough for a Veterinarian. If a local Vet is not available that is willing to help, you're desperate to save the bird, and you are a brave soul, you may be able to get a Vet from an AgriculturalCollege to walk you through a more complex procedure.

But for the simple cases of egg binding for a hen's first egg, the above procedures may be just enough to save many of the birds that are lost each year at sexual maturity.

Reprinted with permission

Thanks to Shagbark Bantams




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Tel: 361-785-7903

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[banter]

You've probably done most of this-quite a controversy as to break or not- Good Luck!

 

[banter]

This site gives you the proper calcium to give


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Egg Binding


IS YOUR DUCK STUCK? or YOU’RE HEN HELD HOSTAGE?

Egg Binding by K. J. Theodore

EGG BINDING is a serious disorder that most commonly affects a young hen when laying her first egg, but can affect any hen at any time.

Some cases are so severe that the only possible solution is surgical, and can result in a complete hysterectomy. This would require the assistance of a qualified Veterinarian and must be done under a general anesthetic. But I'd like to discuss the cases that would be considered mild to moderate, where the brave and curious Fancier is interested in trying to help out their hen.

The first thing I highly recommend (although I realize not always practical), is to obtain an x-ray of the bird's abdomen. This is a valuable tool in confirming that you truly have an egg bound problem. Swollen and distended abdomens can be symptomatic of other more serious disorders. If the x-ray shows a distinctly formed and calcified egg, then you have a certain course of action. If the x-ray shows no distinct egg formation, then you can be dealing with a shell-less egg and that can get complicated. You may even be dealing with an internal layer. However, if the hen's internal structures are fuzzy and indistinct, you could also be dealing with an abdomen that is filled with fluid. In this case, you'd be dealing with a completely different problem.

A fluid-filled abdomen could be a sign of peritonitis - egg related or otherwise. Whether caused by egg material never passed or not, a good course of action is to immediately put the hen on a good broad-spectrum antibiotic, such as Baytril. (Good SUPPORTIVE THERAPY should be included in any treatment program - May issue.) If the condition does not improve through the course of treatment, then a local Veterinarian should be consulted for possible fluid removal and to determine the next course of action.

If the x-ray confirms the presence of a calcified egg (egg with a shell), and the hen is not in any serious distress, then you can follow a conservative and simple medical and supportive approach.

Begin by making sure the hen has adequate protein, calcium, selenium, and vitamins A and E, since dietary insufficiencies can be a cause of egg binding. A preventative course of antibiotics is good too, but make sure you add a good probiotic during and after treatment.

Be sure the hen has plenty of fresh water to drink (hand water if necessary), and lubricate the cloaca (vent). Use a water based lubricant such as K-Y Jelly. This should be applied at regular intervals. Attempt to get some just inside the cloaca - but be cautious not to cause a tear in delicate tissues. If you can see the tip of the egg through the cloaca, even better - lubricate it too. An additional step that can be taken is to attach a heat-softened piece of small tubing to a 3 cc syringe and inject warmed KY or warm soapy water (mixed with sterile water) via the tube up past and around the egg.

A warm, moist environment is helpful. If you have a duck, you can begin by offering her a very warm bath. (Bantams fit nicely in the kitchen sink - much to the dismay of my spouse.) If you can find a small screen to lie over the top and put something heavy on the edges to secure it, then you can walk away and let the girl float about for awhile. If you have a hen, then you'll have to support her so that the bottom half of her body is submersed for about fifteen minutes. As long as the bird seems fine otherwise, I would just repeat this at regular intervals, and give Mother Nature a chance to work.

If you can palpate the egg to determine that it's close to delivery, and your bird seems to be having a hard time, you can go beyond the warm water baths and put her into an incubator. Set the temperature between 85-90 degrees with high humidity or place wet towels inside the incubator. Make sure the bird has a fresh airflow. Most incubators have a good intake and exhaust system for fresh air - but make sure the air holes are open so that you don't suffocate your bird. Don't leave her in there more than a few hours. And keep an eye on her condition.

If she still hasn't expelled the egg, and you don't think she's going to on her own, then you can move to manual manipulation. This only applies if she is still bright and not in shock. Palpate the abdomen to find the location of the egg and gently manipulate it in an effort to move it along. GENTLE is the key word here. If manual manipulation fails and you can see the tip of the egg, another option is aspiration, implosion, and manual removal.

First, get someone to help you hold the bird very securely while you work (preferably not upside down). Then, using a syringe and a large needle (18ga.), draw the contents of the egg into the syringe. After aspiration of the contents, gently collapse the egg all around. You want to do this gently in order to keep the inner membrane of the egg in tact, which will keep the eggshell fragments together.

Last, gently remove the egg. (Copious amounts of lubrication would be good here.) Go slow and try to keep the shell together (although broken). If all fragments do not come out, they should pass, along with remaining egg content, within the next several days.

These are simple, at-home remedies for a condition that can become very serious. There are more methods available for the more difficult cases, but too many to list here. If your hen isn't helped by the methods I've listed, then either the egg binding is serious, or you have a different problem altogether. If it is a severe case of egg binding, it may be serious enough for a Veterinarian. If a local Vet is not available that is willing to help, you're desperate to save the bird, and you are a brave soul, you may be able to get a Vet from an AgriculturalCollege to walk you through a more complex procedure.

But for the simple cases of egg binding for a hen's first egg, the above procedures may be just enough to save many of the birds that are lost each year at sexual maturity.

Reprinted with permission

Thanks to Shagbark Bantams




Peafowl Home
Photo Gallery
Peafowl Worming
Peafowl Incubation
Peafowl Marketing
Peafowl Shipping
Hatching Chart
Egg Binding
Peachick Care
Poultry Auctions
Poultry Diseases
Worming Links
Our Sponsors
Contact Address

Poultry Chat

Poultry Forum

Peafowl Store and 2006 Price List
New User Sign Up!


Mailing Address
PO Box 1363 Port Lavaca
Texas 77979
Home: 361-785-7903

Ranch Address
5017 State Hwy 185 E,
Seadrift, Texas 77983
Tel: 361-785-7903

Contact: Mr.Bill McGill

[email protected]

Bravenet Hit Counter
Powered by Bravenet
View Statistics


Farm Manager is now Poultry Express the new Screen Shots will be out on 03/30/06
Back Ground Adjuster
Species Form
Birds Form
Pairing Form
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Article and Information on Peafowl Worming, Peafowl Hatching, Peacocks and Peachicks

 

[banter]

Sorry did that wrong-try this article
Treatment begins with separating the hen to a quiet warm area. Sometimes a heat lamp over a makeshift nest box is all they need. Warmth relaxes the hen so that the vent can dilate more allowing the egg to pass. A warm water bath is a great option. Hens that are egg bound and placed in a sink of water will immerse themselves squatting down and look like they are nesting. This is helpful in diagnosis as an ill hen will usually stand in the water wondering why you put her there or get out. Often the hen will pass the egg into the water. Make the water as hot as you would like to take a long soak in if you were sore from work the day before.
The hen can be given Calcium Sandoz. It is a liquid calcium supplement that most drug stores carry. Give 1 cc to a standard and half to a bantam by mouth. Add 1 cc to each quart or litre of water that she has while in treatment. Even if the cause is not hypocalcemia in this hen’s case it will not hurt her to have more calcium.
If in doubt as to if the hen is egg bound a few vet sites recommend separation, warmth, warm bath and calcium to all hens in lay that seem distressed. Since treatment is only successful if done early and none of these thing can harm her even if she is not egg bound up to this point it is better safe than sorry.
If treatment so far has not helped her out you need to get some oil, mineral oil or vegetable oil, or a personal lubricant like KY jelly and liberally apply it to her vent and your finger and put the finger into her vent very gently and upward in direction. Downward would get you into the digestive tract. If you reach an egg try to get some of the lubricant into the area and sweep your finger past the egg and help the lubricant get all around the egg. Give the hen a rest and perhaps another chance to pass the egg herself depending on her condition. Hens go into profound cardiovascular collapse over being egg bound and she may not be able to put in the effort to try anymore. If not place your well lubed finger in there again and if you can get past the egg and sweep or pull it gently out. If you can’t do that the last resort is to gently break the end of the egg and allow the contents to pass and the shell to collapse. It is vital that all of the shell be removed from the hen. Be very gentle as she will get internal cuts from the egg shell. If you have to do this place the hen on antibiotics following removal if she survives.
Following passing or removal of the egg keep the hen in a warm quiet area separate until she is out of shock and back eating and drinking well.
Complications from being egg bound can be swelling, bleeding or prolapse of the oviduct. Some swelling is normal and the hen can be given ASA (Aspirin or acetylsalicylic acid) at the rate of 5 of the 5grain ASA tablets to each gallon of water. Preperation H can be placed in the vent as well. If the oviduct prolapsed gently wash it off and lube it up well with oil or KY and very gently place it back pushing inward and upward. There will be a lot of swelling after so add Preparation H to her vent and ASA to her water. Bleeding that continues past that day should be treated with antibiotics.
Recurrence is common Hens that have been egg bound often take a rest from laying and that healing time is important. If she does not take time off and seems to have continued problems you can induce a molt by keeping her in only dim light for less than 10 hours a day and darkness for the rest. Laying will shut down after 4 or 5 days and a molt in another 2 weeks. If you put her back in regular lighting conditions after the laying stops she may not go into a full molt and start laying in a week or two.

 

[LilBrat]

thanks y'all for all the support.

our hen is now resting.. she's exhausted, I'm exhausted and hubby is having a hard time getting out of here for his errands - which include the roll of tums. There's no problem keeping her warm.. its 90+ outside and I now have the cage covered on all but one side for dimness. I cleaned out the syringe we use for cat, flea meds and plan to use that for the next KY treatment. It seems her vent membrane is just not big enough for that egg.. it's moist and not expanding at all for even the smallest of openings... I'm hoping that the little syringe will fit in there. She's still drinking water frequently and passing loose stool.. which is probably what's keeping that membrane moist.
I'm so frustrated that I haven't been able to get a little hole in that egg to suck the insides out and colapse it I could scream. We have a dremmel tool, and I can't find that blasted thing! The shell on that egg is one hard shell!