Help purchasing Coop/Run

Bebop367

In the Brooder
Apr 27, 2020
10
18
39
My granddaughter and I are trying to get set up for max 6 laying hens. I am new to all this.

Need help getting Chicken Tractor order ready. I can't build a DIY because of 5 spinal surgeries etc. Photo 1 & 2 are the one I am looking to purchase. Photo 3 of pink and blue coop is just for reference of how the coop is normally built. These are built nearby and hauled in. I am looking to set up permanent and not move. I like the sound of the DLM for coop and run.

I think from what I read the wire floor is not the way to go. I can get treated plywood floor added and seal with BlackJack 57 or something. From what I read it seems to me I want have enough room vertical for the DLM. What you think? I also though about having the coop closed in all the way to ground. Would having a ground / dirt floor be better for the DLM? This would leave 6' x 12' for run and 4' x 6' for coop. Is that enough for max. 6 hens?

My spot to put it is on higher ground than whats around it. I also plan on building up approx. 8" higher just to keep it dry as possible. Run has tin roof like the coop. I know it will get blow in rain etc. Do you think this run would work also with the DLM?

Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.
 

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For true DLM (composting) a dirt floor is ideal. Otherwise, if you plan to have it built as shown with the coop elevated like that, I would do deep bedding instead of DLM in coop.

Run should be fine for DLM. Both coop and run should be ok for 6 hens.
 
For true DLM (composting) a dirt floor is ideal. Otherwise, if you plan to have it built as shown with the coop elevated like that, I would do deep bedding instead of DLM in coop.

Run should be fine for DLM. Both coop and run should be ok for 6 hens.
Thank you. Way more to learn than I anticipated. Glad I found BYC.
 
Welcome!
For six birds, at least 25 to 30 sq. ft. in the coop, and 60 sq. ft. in the run, and larger is better.
A garden shed type structure with a predator proof foundation is best, with an added run. Having one delivered from the big box store, and then adding big hardware cloth window openings and upper vents will be nice, and tall enough to not have to crouch or crawl anywhere!
Mary
 
For true DLM (composting) a dirt floor is ideal. Otherwise, if you plan to have it built as shown with the coop elevated like that, I would do deep bedding instead of DLM in coop.

I'm using DLM in my small, urban coop and it's been absolutely great. There is no smell and although I know that there shouldn't be, it does sometimes amaze me. With our small lot and close neighbors, any smell would be noticeable.
 
Where are you located so we know weather? If you modify your profile to always show that it is always available. Your general location can be important on many different levels.

I agree a dirt floor is best for the deep litter method. To stop digging predators I'd install an apron since it is a permanent location, not a movable tractor. Leave off or remove the wheels so it sits lower and lay wire flat around the entire thing, say 12" to 18" wide. Overlap the corners. Attach that to the bottom so nothing can get between the wire and your coop/run. You don't have to bury it , you can anchor it down until grass grows up into it, but I like removing the turf, say 2" deep, and putting the turf back over the fencing. That way it is for sure out of the way of lawn mowers and weed eaters. The idea is that a digging predator goes up to the fence, starts digging, hits the wire, and does not know to back up. That's a lot easier than digging straight down 12' to 18" to bury it, even if your ground isn't very rocky.

I also though about having the coop closed in all the way to ground

Depends on your winter weather as to how feasible that is. There can be advantages and disadvantages. With your bad back I'd want something I could walk into instead of bending over and reaching.

How's that metal roof installed? Looks like the grooves may be running the wrong way or am I just seeing things. You want the grooves to get rainwater and snow off, not trap it up there.

I don't see any nests. With six hens you only need two nests. Again it is somewhat weather dependent, but for six hens maximum it is probably big enough. Snow will blow in from the sides. Mine hate to wake up to a new white world, they generally won't go out in it for a couple of days. Also, mine hate a cold winter wind. A warm summer breeze is fine but they refuse to go out in a cold winter wind. So they might be trapped in the coop section only for a few days. Unless you are somewhere it gets really cold, like well below 0* Fahrenheit, you should be OK on size but you are approaching a limit.
 
Where are you located so we know weather? If you modify your profile to always show that it is always available. Your general location can be important on many different levels.

I agree a dirt floor is best for the deep litter method. To stop digging predators I'd install an apron since it is a permanent location, not a movable tractor. Leave off or remove the wheels so it sits lower and lay wire flat around the entire thing, say 12" to 18" wide. Overlap the corners. Attach that to the bottom so nothing can get between the wire and your coop/run. You don't have to bury it , you can anchor it down until grass grows up into it, but I like removing the turf, say 2" deep, and putting the turf back over the fencing. That way it is for sure out of the way of lawn mowers and weed eaters. The idea is that a digging predator goes up to the fence, starts digging, hits the wire, and does not know to back up. That's a lot easier than digging straight down 12' to 18" to bury it, even if your ground isn't very rocky.

I also though about having the coop closed in all the way to ground

Depends on your winter weather as to how feasible that is. There can be advantages and disadvantages. With your bad back I'd want something I could walk into instead of bending over and reaching.

How's that metal roof installed? Looks like the grooves may be running the wrong way or am I just seeing things. You want the grooves to get rainwater and snow off, not trap it up there.

I don't see any nests. With six hens you only need two nests. Again it is somewhat weather dependent, but for six hens maximum it is probably big enough. Snow will blow in from the sides. Mine hate to wake up to a new white world, they generally won't go out in it for a couple of days. Also, mine hate a cold winter wind. A warm summer breeze is fine but they refuse to go out in a cold winter wind. So they might be trapped in the coop section only for a few days. Unless you are somewhere it gets really cold, like well below 0* Fahrenheit, you should be OK on size but you are approaching a limit.
I in Baton Rouge, LA. Hot and Humid mostly. I just found out the coop is 6' x 6' not 4' x 6'. I plan to put the wire apron and take off wheels at you mention. I think it has 3 nest boxes. You are correct with this back walk in would sure be better for me. I going to try and find maybe someone to build one onsite. Cost may get me there. I know it would be better. Thank you for all the tips. I sure need them.
 
Welcome!
For six birds, at least 25 to 30 sq. ft. in the coop, and 60 sq. ft. in the run, and larger is better.
A garden shed type structure with a predator proof foundation is best, with an added run. Having one delivered from the big box store, and then adding big hardware cloth window openings and upper vents will be nice, and tall enough to not have to crouch or crawl anywhere!
Mary
I just found out the coop is 6' x 6' not 4' x 6'.
I like your idea of shed and add run. That would be much better. Thanks
 

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