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I agree, depends on what you want to hatch. If you want pure breds, you could just separate your GW's at night, leave them in until they finish laying for the day, collect the eggs, do it again everyday until you have as many eggs as you want to hatch. You could always isolate your best hens and only collect eggs from them, too. Or only collect GWeggs for one hatch, only RIR's for another. That way you could compare the differences for future reference.
Look at the stickies at the beginning of this section, you'll see one there about how to tell if the eggs are fertile. Then you can start checking the germ disc on any eggs you eat, and see if you have a high percentage of fertile eggs. I normally only keep one or two roos, with anywhere from 25 to 35 hens, and have amazingly high fertility. I almost never see an infertile egg, and when I do, it's usually a pullet egg.
Now, about that idea of "starting a hen setting every 3 weeks or so". Good luck with that. Hens get broody when the hormones shift, not when we want them to. And, I hate to tell you this, but RIR' and Wyandottes are not very broody types. Some RIR's will brood, and are great moms if they do, but most of them never will.
You might see if you can acquire a few banty hens for brood hens, or some dark Cornish, light Brahma, or even a few silkies. Otherwise, you'd be better off getting an incubator than counting on that particular bunch of hens hatching out lots of chicks. Unless just have a few oddball brooders, it happens. You could get lucky.
ETA:
http://www.ithaca.edu/staff/jhenderson/chooks/chooks.html
Here's handy chart I find I refer to a lot more than I ever thought I would. On the far right side there's a column for how broody a breed tends to be. It might help you find a few brood hens to add on if you choose to do that. If you know folks with such-and-such a breed, you could look up the breed and see if it's one you want. Then see if they'd have a hen or two they'd be willing to sell.