Heritage Large Fowl - Phase II

I don't help them except to raise humidity if it appears they need it. They pop right out generally so "hatch badly" does that mean upside down or have trouble getting out?

That is what I meant. Of course if they are healthy and of good type you might re consider. It is also possible that the upside down hatching chicks just could not move to the top. Are the eggs narrower than normal that hatch upside down?

I like this discussion and am glad we are having it. It is applicable to non heritage breeds but it does help us to work with and improve Heritage breeds.
 
The word Lockdown is a BYC word. The rest of the poultry world does not use it. The instructions for incubating say to raise the humidity on day 18 and not to open the incubator too much. I bet most serious Breeders do something similar and do not call it lockdown. Many of the things we do to reach the holy grail of the 100% hatch really do not make much of a difference.

I have had all of the eggs that made it past the day 18 toss hatch at 35% humidity. I still raise the humidity and move the eggs from the turner to egg cartons on day 18(unless I forget). Call it whatever you want to but on BYC, lockdown works very well.

Good Job!

Waiting works best. Helping is a personal decision too. A lot of the chicks that you help will need specialized care when you get them out. For Heritage breeding and improving the flock, the chicks that need help should not go into the breeding program. They can be sold as pets or moved into a layer flock but let the buyer know that they should not be used for breeding.

Culling does not always equal killing. It can mean not using for breeding.
another thing that is so commonly misunderstood...The definition of "cull." Thank you for stating this for those who don't know.

Moving a hen to your layer flock and out of your breeder flock is a perfect example of culling that hen.
 
When you open the incubator, spray a mist from a spray bottle. Use clean water and do not spray directly on the eggs.

It keeps the humidity up.

Good news on the pip! It should hatch soon.
Thanks Ron. The 5th egg continues to pip. The brooders are running at 85 thru 90 degrees.
These chicks seem to do fine at 79 thru 90 degrees, iff that happens. I am keeping the
degrees up, tho. I wonder if it is because they come from northern stock?
Best,
Karen
 
Ok, I bought a Pro Series Farm Incubator and have 13 SBEL's in it since 5.29, Last night at 11 pm I put in 6 Basques and 9 Coronation Sussex. The turner makes a clank when the eggs shift so when I put the new ones in I put tissue paper underneath each egg. Is this wrong? Should I remove it? I'm candling the SBEL's tonight but the first day was a nightmare of spiking heat. Up to 110. I moved from storeroom to house and it has worked like a charm at 99.5-100. I am trying the dry hatch. Normally 35% to 45%. If it gets to 30% I add 1 T water. Ideas? Suggestions?
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Also, if I have any survivors of SBEL's what do I do on day 18. Turn the turner off and hand turn the new ones?
 
Ok, I bought a Pro Series Farm Incubator and have 13 SBEL's in it since 5.29, Last night at 11 pm I put in 6 Basques and 9 Coronation Sussex. The turner makes a clank when the eggs shift so when I put the new ones in I put tissue paper underneath each egg. Is this wrong? Should I remove it? I'm candling the SBEL's tonight but the first day was a nightmare of spiking heat. Up to 110. I moved from storeroom to house and it has worked like a charm at 99.5-100. I am trying the dry hatch. Normally 35% to 45%. If it gets to 30% I add 1 T water. Ideas? Suggestions?
pop.gif
Also, if I have any survivors of SBEL's what do I do on day 18. Turn the turner off and hand turn the new ones?
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It is a good idea use the tissue. Vibration can be hard on the eggs.
 
That is what I meant. Of course if they are healthy and of good type you might re consider. It is also possible that the upside down hatching chicks just could not move to the top. Are the eggs narrower than normal that hatch upside down?

I like this discussion and am glad we are having it. It is applicable to non heritage breeds but it does help us to work with and improve Heritage breeds.

They might be a little narrow but not a lot, I don't want to hatch anything like that. On the other hand, some may not have been perfectly oval either, a little closer to round - just a little. I'll be paying more attention to egg shape. It may be that because its getting so late in the year that I'm getting desperate to finish and I'm probably just popping all eggs in without thinking about shape. Normally, I do pay closer attention so maybe that's it.

Andalusians do fit the definition of heritage even though I'm pretty sure they wouldn't be considered heritage if you think about old timey farms way back when. People look at me kind of funny when they find out I have WHITE eggs from my home flock. Usually a farm/heritage bird lays brown eggs I guess. I have some of those too but they are not pressured to the standard... I don't have the time or money to tackle another breed to try to keep to regulations.
 
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Incubating chickens is an art which accounts in part for various results. Advice from an old timer..don't help chicks out of the egg. As noted that is a personal thing that I do understand, but if you want strong birds let nature take its course. Healthy chicks almost explode from their eggs.

Walt
 
Incubating chickens is an art which accounts in part for various results. Advice from an old timer..don't help chicks out of the egg. As noted that is a personal thing that I do understand, but if you want strong birds let nature take its course. Healthy chicks almost explode from their eggs.

Walt
Hi Walt !
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Well I didn't help anyone and they are all out. Whew! I was surprised how quickly they got out of the eggs! That last 5th egg?
Hubby Bob was watching for it to hatch. It "small pipped", then hours later ( after resting like Sally Sunshine said it would)
"large pipped" . Then Bob said within 5 minutes it was unzipped and out! I am so impressed with these chicks. No obvious
DQ's on any, both outcross and inbred. Just healthy, robust little chicks, Interestingly, last season there were some chicks which
had slightly darker down on the nape of their necks. I didn't see any difference in their adult plumage. This season, even on
the inbred chicks, all the down is the same lovely correct eWh down. So whether it was a good thing or a bad thing, it
has disappeared.
Best,
Karen
 
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The traditional humidity level for incubation is 55% for the first 18 days and then 65% for the last three days. Most chicks will hatch fine at 55% and the humidity will go up as each chick hatches. It is more important if you are dry hatching, defined as less than 55%, to increase humidity for the last three days. Some incubate below 25%. That is dangerous. I have read a couple of studies and University papers that said humidity below 25% resulted in lower hatch rates.
Alright Ron Thanks. I will take notes and work on that this Aug when I start a few hatches. I appreciate your help so much.
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