Heritage Large Fowl - Phase II

[fowlman01]

The breed certainly is a challenge not only because of color but also because of the extreme type, beard, foot feathering, and fifth toe placement. Plus understanding the intereaction between color selection in males and females. Some argue that to show successfully there must be a cockerel line and a pullet line. Others including myself disagree. Very interesting subject faverolles breeding. I could go one all day. Thanks for the comments.

I raised them in the early 80's. Yes, they are difficult, Back then there were some good ones out here in the west. I see some good ones now here but only occasionally. I believe most breeds/varieties can be single mated, but it is harder to do than doing the double mating.

Walt

 

[gjensen]

The breed certainly is a challenge not only because of color but also because of the extreme type, beard, foot feathering, and fifth toe placement. Plus understanding the intereaction between color selection in males and females. Some argue that to show successfully there must be a cockerel line and a pullet line. Others including myself disagree. Very interesting subject faverolles breeding. I could go one all day. Thanks for the comments.

I do not see where the Faverolle type is extreme? Not in relation to similar birds. A breed type that I would call difficult or extreme would be the Malay.

It seams to me the color would be the most challenging. I was thinking when I read this, would no black in the tails make them easier or harder?
It seams to be a challenge in wheaton varieties to get correctly marked tails in the females. I wonder if no black in the female tails is an advantage? I tend to think it is, because getting it right in these varieties (unless it is already well developed), is tough.
I have an interest in wheaton, not because I have birds that are wheaton, but most of the breeds that I have had or have had an interest in are wheaton based.

My Catalanas are not wheaton, but they are wheaton based and the wheaton tendencies are strong. There is a marked difference in color between the males and females. Not according to the standard, but in reality that is the case.
I am trying to reconcile the difference between the standard requirements, and what the birds actually are in my Catalanas. There is a gap there that needs to be tighened up.

I looked at your breed's standard this morning, and noticed that lacing in the neck etc. is allowed. Is that a refinement that breeders of this variety actively pursue or not? These two points seam to add to the challenge.

Then I noticed that the under color should be slate. I did not expect that, but should not have surprised me. That must be for the male's color. I also noticed the requirements for the black in the wings. The first two breeds that I am interested in have a similar requirement with the wings, and these two points are part of the black balancing act. Neither of those should have a slate under color, but the tendency to have it is there. The tendency is linked to the quantity of black in the body color, and even linked to the intensity of leg color in my Catalanas. I wish the standard allowed for a little slate in the under color of the back in the Catalanas. That there is no allowance for it, makes the Black tailed Buff with slate legs a little more challenging. I am thinking that along the way, I will have to keep a reserve(s) of color (slate under color) on the side.

The OEG bantam breeders seam to be in the best shape concerning many colors. There is a lot of hose breeders in this State. I would like to discuss Wheaton and Black Tailed Buff with one that has it right, and has had a lot of experience with it.

Regardless of the color variety (except solid colored birds), if what we have to work with is not already refined, it is especially challenging to get a grip on it. Especially when there is no one around specializing in whatever color that might be. It is one thing to get breed varieties in good shape, and another to try to build it from ground up.

Over and again, I remember Bob recommending newcomers to stay away from the difficult colors starting out. There is a lot of wisdom in that recommendation. Some of us are hard headed and will figure it out, but more and more I am understanding where he was coming from. I understood him then, but understand him more now. Especially in a variety that is not in good shape already. If the variety is in good shape, there is less challenge and if there is a mentor there is less of a challenge. Figuring out a difficult color variety on your own that is not in good shape, and working from the ground up, is tough.

 

[finnfur]

Question for you breeders because we get all kinds different information online.

How long to separate a Cock from the a hen before test breeding another Cock ?

We hear from 7 days to a month and half . Thats a big spread LOL

What do ya'll do ?

And thanks we are enjoying all the great information. Lurking and learning.

 

[perliczki]

Question for you breeders because we get all kinds different information online.

How long to separate a Cock from the a hen before test breeding another Cock ?

We hear from 7 days to a month and half . Thats a big spread LOL

What do ya'll do ?

And thanks we are enjoying all the great information. Lurking and learning.

with us in Europe this month

 

[Zanna]

Question for you breeders because we get all kinds different information online.

How long to separate a Cock from the a hen before test breeding another Cock ?

We hear from 7 days to a month and half . Thats a big spread LOL

What do ya'll do ?

And thanks we are enjoying all the great information. Lurking and learning.

X2. I remember Bob saying 7 days in a post, I questioned this and did not get a response. I always wait 21 days but would like to not wait so long, slows down progress

 

[catdaddyfro]

Question for you breeders because we get all kinds different information online.

How long to separate a Cock from the a hen before test breeding another Cock ?

We hear from 7 days to a month and half . Thats a big spread LOL

What do ya'll do ?

And thanks we are enjoying all the great information. Lurking and learning.

10 to 14 days is a good norm, but in all things there are variables and extremes also Tom, esp. in chicken farming LOL


Jeff

 

[finnfur]

10 to 14 days is a good norm, but in all things there are variables and extremes also Tom, esp. in chicken farming LOL


Jeff

OK Jeff 2 weeks it is -Thanks - You been almost staying out of trouble on here- Real proud of ya LOL

 

[gjensen]

10 to 14 days is a good norm, but in all things there are variables and extremes also Tom, esp. in chicken farming LOL


Jeff

That is about what I go with. I leave the females without a male for 7 days, then with the new male for seven days. I have never noticed a problem.

With some experimental crosses, I never saw interference from the male prior. I imagine that there could be/would be exceptions.

 

[catdaddyfro]

OK Jeff 2 weeks it is -Thanks - You been almost staying out of trouble on here- Real proud of ya LOL

Ok Tom in my best impressionable George W Bush voice: "it's hard"

You should be good at 2 weeks probly 99.5 % to the good. if you get that .5% of a chicken I for sure want to see pics heck may even have to come to see it in person LOL

Jeff

 

[normanack]

Ok Tom in my best impressionable George W Bush voice: "it's hard"

You should be good at 2 weeks probly 99.5 % to the good. if you get that .5% of a chicken I for sure want to see pics heck may even have to come to see it in person LOL

Jeff

Just one season's breeding experience here. I hatched 30-some eggs from my herd of about 25 chickens (including 2 bantam and 2 standard roosters), from eggs collected 11 - 12 days after I sold a poor-tempered rooster. One chick was clearly from that rooster, all the rest not. (edited for clarity)