i am so going to steal that turner idea for my own incubator...
homemade bator
- Thread starter OzawkieBantams
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #12
Quote:
NO! !
IDEA THEIF IDEA THEIF!!!!!!
LOL
NO! !
IDEA THEIF IDEA THEIF!!!!!!
LOL
Last edited:
Quote:
I dont get how you did that can you help me. I moved the tstat closer but it doesnt help.
Turn the thermostat to where the flat side is turned toward the light an move it to about an inch from the light.
I dont get how you did that can you help me. I moved the tstat closer but it doesnt help.
Turn the thermostat to where the flat side is turned toward the light an move it to about an inch from the light.
- Thread starter
- #14
Quote:
I dont get how you did that can you help me. I moved the tstat closer but it doesnt help.
Turn the thermostat to where the flat side is turned toward the light an move it to about an inch from the light.
K i have done that and there is still a large temp difference from 102.2° to 86°
I dont get how you did that can you help me. I moved the tstat closer but it doesnt help.
Turn the thermostat to where the flat side is turned toward the light an move it to about an inch from the light.
K i have done that and there is still a large temp difference from 102.2° to 86°
Keep moving it closer till the numbers come together. You must have a low wattage bulb
Great start to a nice incubator! I like the egg roller turners!
>I would paint the inside. I would seal the wood (less absorption of water/odors) and make spills and clean up easier.
>What size bulb are you using? A 60W should work in a wooden box that size. You will need to make a shield between the bulb and the egg area. The radiant heat put off will cook the eggs closest to it.
>I agree with thermal mass. Put a few sealed jars of water in the corner... that will help stabilize temps.
>You really need a small circulating fan. Most use a small computer PC fan... but those are DC volts so you will need to wire in a small transformer... aka cell phone charger, etc. I would put it directly above the light pointing right down the middle of the box across the egg area... so it draws and pushes the rising warm air down the middle. Be sure to space it off the wall so it can draw the air in behind it. Some like to point the fan at the light... but I think the more important thing is even circulation through the box. With good, even circulation, the warm air off the bulb will mix and spread and temps will be even.
>When it comes to hatching day... you leaving the eggs on the rollers? If so, I would make a some sort of pen/shelf to contain/hold the chicks. Fence them off from the light area. I would worry that a rolling hatching egg might flop right off the rollers so something right below to catch/contain would be good.
>You will need water trays for humidity (as water evaporates)... and depending on your local humidity levels may need more or less than others. Adding wicks/sponges to water trays increases surface area and evaporation. Be sure to run your incubator and determine your "dry" (no water) humidity % level, then add trays etc and figure out the "wet" humidity level and dial in the levels you want.
>Do you have an vent holes? If the edges of your wood box lid are not sealed, you could leave them and consider them vents... but you have to tape/seal them off if you determined you were venting too much (loosing humidity too fast or loosing temps). Round holes you can plug work well.
>You going to put in a window? You really need on... unless you have a thermometer and hygrometer with an external probe you can put in the box so you know. Plus, you will find yourself opening the lid WAY TOO MUCH if you don't have a window... taking a peak at the action. You really should consider one... even if small... over the egg area.
>Thermostat. I'm using the same as you. Drilling holes in the t-stat allows the air to circulate through it to the metal temp-sensitive parts inside better. This will help it react faster to air temps. But the recommendation to point the back of the t-stat directly at the light bulb just a few inches away... works on a slightly different principle. See Rebelcowboy's link... he's done great experimenting with this idea. Also see my BYC page (<< link under my avatar << ) for another explanation. By putting the t-stat so close to the bulb, you use the radiant heat to heat the t-stat up FASTER than if you were only using the air temp (air being heated through convection off the bulb)... this greatly shortens the built-in temperature swing (on/off) of the t-stat (~6 degrees). So you use the adjuster screw to dial in the air temp you want the light to come ON (99 degrees) and then dial in when the bulb turns OFF (upper temp desired) by the distance between the t-stat and bulb.
Keep us posted of your progress!
Cheers!
>I would paint the inside. I would seal the wood (less absorption of water/odors) and make spills and clean up easier.
>What size bulb are you using? A 60W should work in a wooden box that size. You will need to make a shield between the bulb and the egg area. The radiant heat put off will cook the eggs closest to it.
>I agree with thermal mass. Put a few sealed jars of water in the corner... that will help stabilize temps.
>You really need a small circulating fan. Most use a small computer PC fan... but those are DC volts so you will need to wire in a small transformer... aka cell phone charger, etc. I would put it directly above the light pointing right down the middle of the box across the egg area... so it draws and pushes the rising warm air down the middle. Be sure to space it off the wall so it can draw the air in behind it. Some like to point the fan at the light... but I think the more important thing is even circulation through the box. With good, even circulation, the warm air off the bulb will mix and spread and temps will be even.
>When it comes to hatching day... you leaving the eggs on the rollers? If so, I would make a some sort of pen/shelf to contain/hold the chicks. Fence them off from the light area. I would worry that a rolling hatching egg might flop right off the rollers so something right below to catch/contain would be good.
>You will need water trays for humidity (as water evaporates)... and depending on your local humidity levels may need more or less than others. Adding wicks/sponges to water trays increases surface area and evaporation. Be sure to run your incubator and determine your "dry" (no water) humidity % level, then add trays etc and figure out the "wet" humidity level and dial in the levels you want.
>Do you have an vent holes? If the edges of your wood box lid are not sealed, you could leave them and consider them vents... but you have to tape/seal them off if you determined you were venting too much (loosing humidity too fast or loosing temps). Round holes you can plug work well.
>You going to put in a window? You really need on... unless you have a thermometer and hygrometer with an external probe you can put in the box so you know. Plus, you will find yourself opening the lid WAY TOO MUCH if you don't have a window... taking a peak at the action. You really should consider one... even if small... over the egg area.
>Thermostat. I'm using the same as you. Drilling holes in the t-stat allows the air to circulate through it to the metal temp-sensitive parts inside better. This will help it react faster to air temps. But the recommendation to point the back of the t-stat directly at the light bulb just a few inches away... works on a slightly different principle. See Rebelcowboy's link... he's done great experimenting with this idea. Also see my BYC page (<< link under my avatar << ) for another explanation. By putting the t-stat so close to the bulb, you use the radiant heat to heat the t-stat up FASTER than if you were only using the air temp (air being heated through convection off the bulb)... this greatly shortens the built-in temperature swing (on/off) of the t-stat (~6 degrees). So you use the adjuster screw to dial in the air temp you want the light to come ON (99 degrees) and then dial in when the bulb turns OFF (upper temp desired) by the distance between the t-stat and bulb.
Keep us posted of your progress!
Cheers!
- Thread starter
- #17
I give up. This T-stat is a royal pain in the azz
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