How (and why) raise pigeons

No.. white dove release using white racers/homing pigeons is big business. Friends of mine in this tourist area make a hundred per pair of homing white pigeons trained and bred to return, n a thousand for loan basically, of dozen white doves, plus extra for ceremony n gas to get out to location. I had few got from friend and I was always offered hundred per pair or one even as demand high there.
 
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Hi everyone, I'm new to byc - I created an account because I wanted to ask: I live in a city, but I want a pigeon, but only for a couple months during the summer, because then I will have to go back to school, and I don't know how I will take care of a pigeon for that long while I have school going on. I was thinking that I could raise a pigeon from an egg and then set it free. Does anyone have a suggestion for what kind of pigeon I should get, and how to take care of it?
 
no you can't raise one from an egg, like you can a chicken or quail or duck. They are fed (what I call) crop milk from the parents, best to just get another small animal if you don't have the time to care for it, like a hamster or gerbil. You can easily find a home for those.
 
We have lots of wedding tourism here...and was thinking if we can get just a few weddings a year -worse case scenario - they would at least pay for themselves.
My grand daughter and I do white dove releases. Here is an example of our add.

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-wedding-serv...se/1246177750?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

You will find it is a local market and you can only charge what demand dictates. Our doves on a good day pay for themselves.

White pigeons are a mutation and are prone to more predator attacks. Get the best Homer or Racer blood line you can preferably (Belgian for example) you are sure to have losses. Get young birds know by fanciers as the term "SQUEEKERS" (you find out why when they begin to vocalize) best of luck UtePassChickens.

"NEVER" fly a bird you are not willing to loose is the best advise I could give you.
If I can be of any assistance feel free to contact me.
 
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If dead set, then just get easiest care ferals or homers as young birds after feathers grown in under wings (never get just one or odd number of pigeons as they'll get depressed and other problems, sex usually doesn't matter if only two as they'll nest mate etc just no young), leave cage open during day if small and want to/no time during day or no lights out to fly nightly. Pigeons in simplest care best just in forty inch squared box with netting on front for first week or Always if not letting fly (use wood and inch hardware cloth if outside or have pets etc around that have access to room in) for two to six regular sized Pigeons. Feed them pigeon pellets, parrot pellets (budgie/parakeet etc tiel sized), chicken layer pellets (16℅ or lower). Other non complete feed like wild bird seed, scratch grains, etc reguire caged Bird chicken or pigeon etc grit in seperate cup from feed and water cups. Take paint scraper to bottom of box once daily before feed n rinse water cup out with finger (I use tea or small coffee cups with bricks in front corners holding cups in place-water one side and feed/grit on other front corner side. If breed, each pair gets own box for it and young as they'll need a nest in each back corner.. just pile of pine needles etc squared in with two bricks each. Feed amount will depend on breed and family if performance or utility line. Generally Birmingham rollers require least feed space care etc, as originally bred as leasure sport for traveling miners where pairs kept in shoe box or group kept in tool box etc, n released in evening to fly watching acrobatic performances while winding down relaxing from hard day crammed working in mines limited space themselves. Homers next best, but require more work for sport if wanna do more than rollers would provide flying around home, as homers taken away from home hoping come back each time from farther and different directions. Ferals just are cute to watch putter flapping clapping around as antics amuse and raise babies etc, some surprise showing Homer roller or utility genes etc mixed in. Wild type actual feral will be grey with iridescent single blue bar on each wing when folded and orange eyes when adults and grey when juvi (no muffs crests Tufts etc either), anything else especially checkered and white feathers, is showing closer domestic recent breeding (bringing out hidden breeds in ferals can be fun project).
 
Oh and....just to let you know...when it comes to answering pigeon questions, I tend to answer them to the best of my ability, which can get a bit lengthy in order to tell you everything I think you should know. So it may look long and too much trouble, but really keeping pigeons isn't much more complicated or hardwork than keeping chickens
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Depending on what you're aiming for, you may be in for more time, money, or work than is needed, but you're in control of that. If you want champs in showing or racing, of course that would require a little more on your part that just keeping them for the fun of it.
There are many uses for pigeons. They lay eggs of course, so those are edible, although they do not just spit them out like chickens. They lay two to a clutch, and must be given time to recover and get some more calcium in them before laying again (if you take the first eggs).
There are utility breeds like Kings and Carneaux that grow big squabs, which are a delicacy in most countries.
Me? I race mine
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I love my racers (homing pigeons), and the sport is quite enjoyable.
Another thing you can do with homers, is the white dove release business. You need pure white homing pigeons, but they don't have to be racing or show quality by any means. They just have to be smart and have the homing ability to get home from the church.
You can also show any of the hundreds of recognized breeds.
Many people simply keep them as a backyard pleasure; no competition intended. But there a lot of neat breeds to choose from. Like Rollers, who execute several continuous backflips in flight, before straightening up and fluttering off again. There are also Parlor Tumblers/Rollers who roll in the same way, but on the ground. They'll tumble down your lawn for several feet/yards.

If you're only planning on getting one or two birds, they can easily be kept in something like an outdoor rabbit hutch. In fact, I have one now that I use as a breeding cage for one of my pairs.
If you'd like to have more than that, or allow your pair to raise babies (cause they gotta go somewhere, right?), then it's best to keep them in a loft. Basically a chicken coop with an aviary stuck on the front of it.
Here's a picture of my first loft, which used to be a chicken coop ( the small section where you enter, is still used for the chickens to get in and roost/lay eggs.)
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Basically anything will work, as long as they have enough room, some perches, nest boxes for the pairs, good ventilation but not so much to where it gets drafty. Sounds a lot like what chickens need huh?
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The aviary added on the front lets them get some sun and fresh air, without it being on the ground where things can bother them or they might pick up parasites. They love aviaries, but it isn't required of course.

As for what to feed them, I feed a pigeon mix made by Brown's.
Pigeon pellets also work (chicken pellets are fine if no pigeon feed is available around you). Wild bird seed mixed with scratch feed would work as well. But what is really important is the grit. They need a mix of crushed oyster shell (for calcium) and crushed granite (for digestion aid) at least. We get red pigeon grit, which has all of that, plus charcoal bits for a healthy system, and coated in a pink supplement. Some people have red grit locally, others have a hard time finding it. But if you're close to someone with pigeons, chances are, they can help you out a lot with where to find what.

No matter what breed, pigeons will come home to roost, eat, drink, and lay, like chickens do when allowed to free range. Homing pigeons are the only exception IF they are too old to be re-settled to your loft. If you choose homing pigeons, get some under 5 months old. Birds 1-2 months old are the best age, since you'll only have to keep them as 'prisoners' for 2 or 3 weeks until you can let them out. Birds over 3 months, should be kept in for a month before releasing. And those over 5 months can be very iffy. It's best to play it safe in that situation, and use them as breeders, flying the babies.
Any other breed can also be released after 2 weeks of settling inside the loft, no matter what age they are. But with all flying breeds, it is best to get them as young as possible. Older birds will be "strong on the wing", meaning as soon as they come out, they're gonna want to fly a lot. In a new home, they may accidentally fly too much, too far, and get lost. But with younger birds, they won't be as flighty, and by the time they get flying good, they'll have their surrounding memorized so they won't get lost as easily
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Most fancy/show breeds don't fly much, especially the big bulky feathered ones, or those with big tails (fantails) or big muffs on their feet. So any age is safe for them, since they won't fly a whole lot anyways (or well, not very far. They'll flutter about the yard though
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One thing I would like to point out though. Hawks love pigeons. Even more than they love chickens. That's probably because pigeons are smaller than most chickens, and they fly, so therefore a larger variety of hawks can more easily catch them, plus they get the thrill of chasing them in the air.
With homing pigeons, all hawks will have some issues catching them, simply because they are so fast! But the smaller, woodland hawks like Coopers and Sharp-shins, are masters of sneaking up on pigeons and catching them off guard.
Fancy pigeons basically have no chance against a hawk normally.
So because of that, it isn't advised to let your birds loft fly (fly around the loft as they please) all day, but rather for maybe an hour in the morning, and an hour in the afternoon. The rest of the time, or any time you are not able to be outdoors keeping watch, they should be inside the loft where they're safe. It's best to feed them twice a day (morning, afternoon), and release the birds to exercise before you feed them. That way when it's time to come in, and they hear the food hit the pan, they'll come running because they're hungry. Makes it a whole lot easier to trap the birds in when they're on the hungry side.
Im wanting to get into pigeons can u answer some questions I have?
 
Im wanting to get into pigeons can u answer some questions I have?
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