How Big for a Maternity Ward?

So it is for incubating the eggs, not keeping the chicks in with the hen until she is ready to wean them. Makes a difference. So you need enough room for a nest (12" x 12" maybe), room for a feeder and waterer (what are you using), and a bit of room to go poop. She should know by instinct to not poop in her nest but that doesn't carry through to anything else. You will need to be able to access it for cleaning and to change food/water without too much pain and aggravation so don't make it too big.
 
So it is for incubating the eggs, not keeping the chicks in with the hen until she is ready to wean them. Makes a difference. So you need enough room for a nest (12" x 12" maybe), room for a feeder and waterer (what are you using), and a bit of room to go poop. She should know by instinct to not poop in her nest but that doesn't carry through to anything else. You will need to be able to access it for cleaning and to change food/water without too much pain and aggravation so don't make it too big.

Thanks. I don't want to make it awkward, but I don't know what she needs. :D
 
Broody hens do need to stretch their legs and have a dust bath while they are broody. I would not lock her in a 2x4 area for 3 weeks. At the very least she needs removed from the box once a day to maintain herself. Mine like to RUN and take a fast dust bath then RUN right back to their eggs, they need that exercise time.
 
Broody hens do need to stretch their legs and have a dust bath while they are broody. I would not lock her in a 2x4 area for 3 weeks. At the very least she needs removed from the box once a day to maintain herself. Mine like to RUN and take a fast dust bath then RUN right back to their eggs, they need that exercise time.

My main concern is keeping the other hens from laying eggs in her nest and keeping her from going back to the main nests instead.
 
I like to mark the broody’s eggs with a line all the way around so I can see any new eggs and remove them.

If you can move her to the new nest for a couple days and she accepts the new nest she probably won’t go back to any other nest. Also if you take her off the nest for exercise time every day then you will be there when she’s done, usually a half hour at most for my hens, and you can make sure she goes back to the right nest. It will help you gain confidence with the whole process and keep track of your hen’s condition. I scoop my hens off the nest from the chest/belly so I don’t trap any eggs under her wings and I can feel how much weight she’s lost as the process goes on. Then I set her on the floor and after a minute of sitting and staring, she will jump up and run around. It’s the funniest thing 🙂
 
My main concern is keeping the other hens from laying eggs in her nest
Then you need to keep her permanently isolated. Don't give the other hens any access.

and keeping her from going back to the main nests instead.
Many hens will accept the move and not go back to the old nest but that usually takes some training. Some don't accept the move at all. A few may accept the move for a few days but then show up at the old nest. To be sure you can't allow her the option to go back. There are all kinds of techniques and variations that you can do, but I like to keep it as simple as I can and not work any harder than I have to.
 
I am too sick with bronchitis to make anything myself, but my DH has agreed to make something up for me.

The plan is a 2w x 4l x2h frame made from 2x2's with wire or plastic net walls and a hinged lid that's at least half solid (so that the others don't roost on top of it and poop on the broody), and a door in the side of the other end so mama and babies can get out in due time.

Precise details may vary depending on just what scrap lumber and plywood we happen to have.

We'll sit the frame down in the deep liter in a sheltered area. Should I make an actual nest box base from some 2x4's in a 12-14" square or will just giving her a pile of straw in the covered end work?
 

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