How do raccoons get in coops and pens to kill?

Raccoons are very strong, very smart and very persistent.

Chicken wire is to keep chickens in ONLY. It's easy for a raccoon (and other predators) to rip through which is why it is highly suggested to use hardware cloth everywhere you can afford it. The second best choice is 2x4 welded/woven wire with hardware cloth or 1" chicken wire wrapped around the bottom 2 feet and buried into the ground at least 15 inches. (Deeper is better to stop diggers.)

Many people also cover their runs with wire to keep predators from going through the top but you have to make sure that any place the wire comes together is securely 'tied' together in some fashion as your run is only as safe as it's weakest link/point. (I have a friend who couldn't figure out why the wire on the top of her run was starting to sag. Then she looked out her window and saw a coyote literally on top of the run, jumping up and down until it forced a gap between the side wire and top wire. Before she could get out there it had jumped into the run and killed her chickens.)

The gaps around the entrance gate (on the sides and under the frame) are always a potential predator entrance spot - especially if using chain link.

The biggest threat to our chickens safety is almost always nighttime. That's why most people lock up their chickens in a coop at night. Use hardware cloth over all windows, vents or other openings and make sure you have a secure lock of some sort on the door/pop hole. Raccoons can use their fingers a lot like ours and can open many types of closures.

It's great that you are being proactive ... you've got lucky chickens!
 
Hearing good things about http://www.niteguard.com/ - am trying them myself...
We've used several of those spring loaded hook latches that we can barely get open ourselves on our chicken tractor....I just pray we've done enough to keep them out. We are building a new tractor next week for 6 more hens, and keeping predators out is our first concern.

(Oh, and that paintball gun story...I am so sorry for your loss and the stress it must have put on you & your poor birds, but my husband and I couldn't help but chuckle thinking of those B*ST*RD raccoons running around covered in like pink and yellow paint. After losing my turtle to a raccoon, and having another one severly injured, I know it is no laughing matter and can be devastating as it was for us, but I just had to comment on the paint ball gun thing...thanks for the smile.)
 
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Sorry, but raccoons are extremely strong and if you can move that brick, then chances are so can the raccoon (remember it doesn't ahve to *lift* it, just pry it over or push it).

You need to get yourself one or more good reasonably raccoon-proof latches for your gate, honest. There are many different ways of doing that.

Remember that, as has been alluded to above, you're best off preventing raccoons from ever getting a chicken in the first place, because after that they become FAR more intent and persistant. Prevention is WAY easier than cure. Get a couple good lockable latches.

Good luck,

Pat
 
Sorry about your trouble I lost 8 before I knew it This guy survived

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yes that's his tongue
 
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You could use the "Search" feature at the top of the page, type in "raccoon" for your key word and then select "Predators and Pests" as your Forum.

That would give you all sorts of information.

Just because someone doesn't immediately respond, doesn't mean we are ignoring you or don't know. It simply means that not many people are on, or that those who are on, do not want to bring up something that has been brought up innumerable times before.

If you want fast answers try the Search function first.

-Kim
 
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Once again, I do want to thank everyone for your advice. I guess my brick is just not enough. I dont think raccoons and other predators are as frequent here as some other places, but I know it only takes one!!
Again, thank you all.
 
Raccoons open latches and such...they actually sell "raccoon proof" ones in some hardware stores. They can dig, climb, chew but most often, they reach through chicken wire and pull the bird out. It is horrible and very messy.

Their front paws are like little hands and they use them well.

Use hardwire cloth on the inside of your chicken wire ground level up about 2 - 3 feet, cover all ventilation openings with hardwire cloth, bring your run chicken wire under the framework and out 3 feet or so or bury it down and out to stop digging.
 
They can be persistent as well as dexterous. After being awakened by the growling and whining on the baby monitor, I stood at the back door and watched as three coons worried the coop door (climbed six foot fence)/the windows/and then were retired from the target pool after one started pulling the shingles loose from the plywood roof.

I find it is easier to keep several havaharts out and set, and remove the threat preemptively (that night one was in the only trap we had at the time).

We use double layer half inch hardware cloth over windows (wood screws and washers - no staples) as they are open all night at this time of year.

We use the spring loaded latches for door (I twisted them just enough that they can't be pulled straight back - have to be rotated just a bit to open - coons never figured that out).
 

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