I only candle once at day 10, and again at day 18 when I take out the turner. I shine the light in through the top of the egg, I don't turn the egg upside down. At day 10, I can see veins and usually the embryo moving. At day 18, I can often see just a bit of veining at the edge of the air cell, otherwise, it's all dark by then. the only reason I candle at 18 is to see if they look like they're still alive. If one died at say, day 12 or so, most of the egg would be clear, and the veins will be gone. If one died at day 17 or 18, you wouldn't be able to tell for sure. So if they're dark at 18, they stay in until they hatch, or until day 25 if they fail to hatch.
Most of my eggs are brown/tan/peach/green/olive, the green ones are the hardest to see into. Some of my darker brown ones are hard to see into. If I can't see into them, I just keep them, and see if they hatch.
When I first add eggs, it may take about 24 hours for temp to return to 100F. (I have a fan in mine, an LG) It takes a long time for eggs to warm all the way through. I don't change the temp until 24 hours has passed. It won't hurt a thing for it to be a little cool, at first. But too hot, will kill them. Likewise when I add water on day 18. It will cool a little. Let it wait several hours before you adjust, to avoid temp spikes. Nudge the knob as little as you can. Increasing slowly is the safest.
I dry incubate, no added water at all until day 18. But I'm in a humid climate. My hum runs about 45% with no added water, just right for the first 18 days. Then I take it up to about 55%, no higher. It will rise on it's own when chicks start to hatch. Then I put a q-tip stick under 2 corners of the lid, that increases airflow just a bit, without cooling the 'bator. The reason I do that is because more moisture in the air means less oxygen, and they need plenty of oxygen while they hatch.