How much starter feed?

[chicklover 1998]

the flock raiser around me is 16% it makes me mad because I accidentally get that once in a while rather than my layer so I have to go switch it out.

 

[aart]

the flock raiser around me is 16% it makes me mad because I accidentally get that once in a while rather than my layer so I have to go switch it out.

There's a label sewn into the bottom of every bag telling your the nutrient values and ingredients...good to look if buying unfamiliar/new feed.

 

[chicklover 1998]

yeah I know what I'm getting because they keep it in the same spot but once in a while a new employee will accidentally switch them up the only diff. is the % on the package, oh well at least I can return it there are some places I know things can't be returned.

 

[Lady of McCamley]

Indeed there is a market cornucopia of products which varies tremendously between brands and locations where you live.

What to feed is also something debated, and often heatedly debated in some of the breeds (like my Buckeyes for example).

To simplify things for the OP, just use a good chick start that is intended for layer types, something like the Purina Chick Start & Grow or what you can get in your area. Typically an 18% protein with lots of vitamins and minerals for body growth but low in calcium as that can harm baby chicks' kidneys. You don't have to switch to a chick grower but can continue on chick start until POL.

Some have option to switch to a chick grower for layer types, for others that would push them into meat/game growers, which can offer too much protein, depending upon the breed.

Whether to use medicated (amprolium based) or non-medicated depends upon your soil conditions and history of area. If you are new to chickens, and raising chicks in a brooder, I would recommend the first bag be medicated to acclimate them to your area and prevent coccidia brewing in the brooder.

18% is a really good protein content for most layer types. 20 to 22% pushes meat bird growth levels and can offer too much protein for *some* layer types (producing too fast a growth that outstrips their joints and muscles, typically the slower "heritage" breeds vs. the faster growth layer hybrids such as Red Stars or Production Reds).

Avoid game/turkey mixes and meat bird mixes if you are raising layer types, as a general rule. If you live in colder climates, or have dual purpose breeds, higher protein can be beneficial.

No chick handles extra calcium well before it is time so avoid layer feeds until just before point of lay.

I'm sure your chick start at the local feed store is perfectly fine for your needs.

LofMc

 

[Fleetwood77]

Indeed there is a market cornucopia of products which varies tremendously between brands and locations where you live.

What to feed is also something debated, and often heatedly debated in some of the breeds (like my Buckeyes for example).

To simplify things for the OP, just use a good chick start that is intended for layer types, something like the Purina Chick Start & Grow or what you can get in your area. Typically an 18% protein with lots of vitamins and minerals for body growth but low in calcium as that can harm baby chicks' kidneys. You don't have to switch to a chick grower but can continue on chick start until POL.

Some have option to switch to a chick grower for layer types, for others that would push them into meat/game growers, which can offer too much protein, depending upon the breed.

Whether to use medicated (amprolium based) or non-medicated depends upon your soil conditions and history of area. If you are new to chickens, and raising chicks in a brooder, I would recommend the first bag be medicated to acclimate them to your area and prevent coccidia brewing in the brooder.

18% is a really good protein content for most layer types. 20 to 22% pushes meat bird growth levels and can offer too much protein for *some* layer types (producing too fast a growth that outstrips their joints and muscles, typically the slower "heritage" breeds vs. the faster growth layer hybrids such as Red Stars or Production Reds).

Avoid game/turkey mixes and meat bird mixes if you are raising layer types, as a general rule. If you live in colder climates, or have dual purpose breeds, higher protein can be beneficial.

No chick handles extra calcium well before it is time so avoid layer feeds until just before point of lay.

I'm sure your chick start at the local feed store is perfectly fine for your needs.

LofMc

 

[chixcoop]

4 chicks will eventually go through 50 lbs of food, so its always better to just get the larger one. If you keep it in your house, there will not be mold. I got the 25 lb, but I eventually needed the 50 lb. When you think about it, they will be on starter/grower for 16 weeks at least, so as you long if you keep it in a dry place the 50 lb bag shouldn't be a problem.

 

[chicklover 1998]

that 50 should be perfect for all the way through the 16 weeks my 8 and then 6 (because I lost two) went through 75 by the time they turned 16 weeks then I was through my second 50 lb bag, when I ran out of the chick food I switched over to grower, when my first began to lay at 23wks and 3 days we were near enough to the bottom of the bag and so I switched to layer feed once we finished that bag.

 

[Chris09]

More and more feed manufactures are producing a 20% layer for commercial type layers (which would include production fowl from hatcheries).
I myself feed nothing less than a 20% Game Bird feed to my heritage show birds (R.I. Reds and Dominque) and my lines of egg production fowl.

 

[Fleetwood77]

More and more feed manufactures are producing a 20% layer for commercial type layers (which would include production fowl from hatcheries).
I myself feed nothing less than a 20% Game Bird feed to my heritage show birds (R.I. Reds and Dominque) and my lines of egg production fowl.

What would you say is the advantage of 20% vs 16% layer feed?

 

[Chris09]

What would you say is the advantage of 20% vs 16% layer feed?

There is a would of difference between the two.

Better egg production.
Better egg quality.
Better feather quality on the fowl.
Quicker recovery time after a molt.
Over all better size of bird.
If feeding a un-medicated starter or a start and grow feed you don't have to switch the type of feed your feeding.
For the average backyard raiser there is a better "fudge factor" meaning if they over feed treats by a little bit there not killing to much of the proteins/ amino acids.

To me there are lots more benefits to feeding a higher protein feed but these are just a few.