How to quarantine a new bird.

Discussion in 'Managing Your Flock' started by jynnjynn, Oct 28, 2010.

  1. jynnjynn

    jynnjynn Songster

    Sep 5, 2010
    I had to get rid of two of my "hens" when they turned out to be roos and would like to replace them.

    I know I am supposed to quarantine any new birds for 30 days to make sure they don't make my current flock sick, but I'm not sure of the specifics of this. I have built a small quarantine coop and a seperate run for the new arrivals, but how far away from my current flock do I need to keep it to be safe?

  2. Clay Valley Farmer

    Clay Valley Farmer Songster

    Sep 7, 2010
    I don't think there is a simple answer that could be expressed in a certain number of feet.

    Quarantine is not going to be perfect unless it was done off property by someone else. All we can do is minimize all the different ways things can spread between birds.

    The further physically the better, but I think it is more importaint to considder that separate procedures are established for feeding and watering. Each flock should have their own food and water set up so that there is no possible cross contamination. You need to considder your own cloths and boots as potential vectors for the spread of germs. So don't visit the new bird touch it get its poop on your boots then go to you main coup, else physical quarantine in nearly pointless.

    Wild birds or rodents that can visit both flocks are a potential vector for the spread of germs so if possible that should be controlled too.
  3. Rozzie

    Rozzie Songster

    Jul 14, 2010
    And, remember that even if you go from your OLD birds to your NEW birds, the shoes you wore are still potentially carrying disease organisms the next day, as are any clothes (winter coats? scarves? hats?) that you wore.

    One option is to wear rubber boots then bleach them each day.

    Another option is to have two sets of gear to wear and tend at different times of day.

    Another option is to construct quarantine facilities in such a way that you rarely have to enter them. Make it so that you can feed & water from OUTSIDE the pen. This reduces (but does not eliminate) the amount of stuff you carry back and forth. Then, still take care of quarantined birds second.

    I would treat the new birds for mites & parasites whether I observed any or not. It's just a precaution that I'd take.
  4. Dixiedoodle

    Dixiedoodle Songster

    Apr 14, 2007
    I thought I had every thing figured out..I placed my quarantine coop and run about 100yds from my I would go do the old birds and then go in the house and change shoes and clothes and go to the new birds... I did this for two weeks.. I turned my old girls out to free range and went to feed the dogs and came back out and everyone was gone... Finally saw them beside the new birds coop and run--checking them out... SO, be sure that they can't get to each other if at all possible..

    Thank goodness my girls have all be healthy...
  5. fargosmom

    fargosmom Songster

    Dec 27, 2008
    Pasadena, CA
    Quote:I'm going to be in the same boat as OP - I'll be quarantining for the first time. I've been lucky with the two hens I have (got them as chicks) - no worms or parasites to speak of . . . so I've never had to treat them for anything. What is the simplest, least-stressful way to treat the new birds for worms and bugs? I assume they'll already be stressed from coming to a new place, and living in temporary quarters - I don't want to add to that burden any more than necessary. I was actually thinking of taking them to my vet and having him do whatever - so they don't associate me with it!

    Any suggestions are most welcome.
  6. cherylcohen

    cherylcohen The Omelet Ranch

    Sep 18, 2009
    SF East Bay CA
    I have 2 in quarantine, and I was told 10 feet away from other flock
  7. Clay Valley Farmer

    Clay Valley Farmer Songster

    Sep 7, 2010
    10 feet might be good enough for diseases that can only spread through direct contact. But IMHO it will require much more than that to achieve effective quarantine. My understanding is that 100 yards with good isolation practices is more like what you should work towards.

    diseases Like IB can be transmitted airborn for distances close to 1 mile. Marek's will float along a good distance on dander or litter. Many others can be transmitted by wild birds, rodents, mosquitos or flys. With this in mind the closer physically the two flocks are the greater the risk.

    Our cloths and boots are a vector too so chances are if the flocks are only 10 feet apart the same boots will be used.

    Quarantine is sort of all or nothing, there is no point unless you are going to cover off all the angles. It would do little good if the flocks were miles apart but the same boots and cloths tracked diseases between them.

    Feed and water is another easy place to mess up quarantine, if you are dipping into the same feed bag for both flocks or changing water at the same time quarantine is likely compromised.

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