how to reintroduce 2 bully hens to flock

[chickenassistant]

We separated 2 of the 9 hens about fall last year. One (Hen A) was mercilessly picking on one of our other hens to the point I couldn't keep feathers on her head and a new wound kept appearing. And we felt bad for always separating just her until she healed enough (no blood). The other hen (Hen B) was just picking on everyone so they could both be pairs on time out.

We basically split our inner roosting coop in 1/3rds with chicken fencing so they are always able to see each other and the 7 would occasionally hang out by the time out by Hen A and B's chicken run.

I've been wanting to reintroduce them bc the picked-on bird has gotten bigger and her feathers have grown back... she doesn't look like a bald man with a beard. I let them out supervised the other day and Hen B's old friend came at her (which makes sense in the pecking order of chicken life).

How do I reintroduce with the least amount of feathers shed? I was going to try supervised small increments of time with the other hens. And I know some pecking order behavior will happen, but when do I draw the line?

Thank you!!!!

 

[azygous]

Draw the line at the bully hen standing on a hen's back and pecking the victim mercilessly. A peck in passing is to be expected. Chasing and assault isn't acceptable.

 

[Lizzy733]

We separated 2 of the 9 hens about fall last year. One (Hen A) was mercilessly picking on one of our other hens to the point I couldn't keep feathers on her head and a new wound kept appearing. And we felt bad for always separating just her until she healed enough (no blood). The other hen (Hen B) was just picking on everyone so they could both be pairs on time out.

We basically split our inner roosting coop in 1/3rds with chicken fencing so they are always able to see each other and the 7 would occasionally hang out by the time out by Hen A and B's chicken run.

I've been wanting to reintroduce them bc the picked-on bird has gotten bigger and her feathers have grown back... she doesn't look like a bald man with a beard. I let them out supervised the other day and Hen B's old friend came at her (which makes sense in the pecking order of chicken life).

How do I reintroduce with the least amount of feathers shed? I was going to try supervised small increments of time with the other hens. And I know some pecking order behavior will happen, but when do I draw the line?

Thank you!!!!

Since they've been visible the whole time, there shouldn't be much drama from the established flock. I'd try one at a time and monitor closely to see how they interact. Charging and kicking are very aggressive behavior that can lead to injury and should be broken up. Cautious approach and posturing may lead to a scuffle, but it should drop as soon as one bird submits. If one submits and the other does not allow them to get away, this should also be broken up.

You should also consider your setup. There should be areas that break line of sight, it should be difficult for them to corner another hen, always have at least two water and food sources spaced apart and keep an eye on roosting behavior, as bullies tend to kick other birds off the roost if they're within reach to do so.

I've had the best luck with a central feature like stacked hay bales or placing the coop in the center of the run where the sub can lead the bully around in circles all day and never get caught.

Hopefully, they'll be too focussed on reclaiming the top to worry about the very bottom and have forgotten their squabbles of the past.

 

[chickenassistant]

Since they've been visible the whole time, there shouldn't be much drama from the established flock. I'd try one at a time and monitor closely to see how they interact. Charging and kicking are very aggressive behavior that can lead to injury and should be broken up. Cautious approach and posturing may lead to a scuffle, but it should drop as soon as one bird submits. If one submits and the other does not allow them to get away, this should also be broken up.

You should also consider your setup. There should be areas that break line of sight, it should be difficult for them to corner another hen, always have at least two water and food sources spaced apart and keep an eye on roosting behavior, as bullies tend to kick other birds off the roost if they're within reach to do so.

I've had the best luck with a central feature like stacked hay bales or placing the coop in the center of the run where the sub can lead the bully around in circles all day and never get caught.

Hopefully, they'll be too focussed on reclaiming the top to worry about the very bottom and have forgotten their squabbles of the past.

I tried once last week and we had some drama. One in the flock who used to walk the yard with Hen B, did the puffy chest "come at me bruh" type behavior and did try to attack/peck.

At night, I typically put them inside the coop (has heat lamps) because it gets into the 30s and they think it is perfectly ok to roost outside. We've also had 2 sets of everything.

I let them out into the yard (about a 1/2 acre of space) and that's when the once "charged."

 

[Henny Penney]

This is a side note to your concern, which I have no suggestions for because dealing with same hen bullying behavior with just 2 hens and a rooster! But why are you using heat lamps if the temperatures are only in the 30s? Most breeds are quite hardy for temperatures at least as low as 32 and most can tolerate much colder. Just a suggestion, you may not need the heat lamps which a can be problematic.

Good luck with your bullies.

 

[gordonb]

We separated 2 of the 9 hens about fall last year. One (Hen A) was mercilessly picking on one of our other hens to the point I couldn't keep feathers on her head and a new wound kept appearing. And we felt bad for always separating just her until she healed enough (no blood). The other hen (Hen B) was just picking on everyone so they could both be pairs on time out.

We basically split our inner roosting coop in 1/3rds with chicken fencing so they are always able to see each other and the 7 would occasionally hang out by the time out by Hen A and B's chicken run.

I've been wanting to reintroduce them bc the picked-on bird has gotten bigger and her feathers have grown back... she doesn't look like a bald man with a beard. I let them out supervised the other day and Hen B's old friend came at her (which makes sense in the pecking order of chicken life).

How do I reintroduce with the least amount of feathers shed? I was going to try supervised small increments of time with the other hens. And I know some pecking order behavior will happen, but when do I draw the line?

Thank you!!!!

I got 12 ISA Browns ago from Tractor Supply. They started laying at 6 months and cranked out an egg almost every day. Unbelievable number of jumbo brown eggs. The literature says 285 eggs a year. Phooy! I got 10 to 12 eggs every day! Had one measure 2" wide and 3" long.
The only problem was they started pecking on the hen at the bottom of the pecking order until she was killed. Then the next one and so on. They were terrible to each other. Jumping on each other, pulling feathers out and bleeding everywhere. I'm down to only 2 left. At one point I took the 2 biggest bullies and put them together in a separate pen. They just looked at each other and left each other alone. After a few weeks I put them back with the others and the others started giving them payback. They didn't like that.
Great layers. Terrible attitude. I've decided chickens just are awful to each other.

 

[azygous]

I got 12 ISA Browns ago from Tractor Supply. They started laying at 6 months and cranked out an egg almost every day. Unbelievable number of jumbo brown eggs. The literature says 285 eggs a year. Phooy! I got 10 to 12 eggs every day! Had one measure 2" wide and 3" long.
The only problem was they started pecking on the hen at the bottom of the pecking order until she was killed. Then the next one and so on. They were terrible to each other. Jumping on each other, pulling feathers out and bleeding everywhere. I'm down to only 2 left. At one point I took the 2 biggest bullies and put them together in a separate pen. They just looked at each other and left each other alone. After a few weeks I put them back with the others and the others started giving them payback. They didn't like that.
Great layers. Terrible attitude. I've decided chickens just are awful to each other.

Not all chickens. Isa Browns are a cross between Rhode Island Reds and Rhode Island Whites. These are aggressive breeds. If you want a peaceful flocks with chickens that are friendly and nice, get breeds that are friendly and nice.

 

[gordonb]

Not all chickens. Isa Browns are a cross between Rhode Island Reds and Rhode Island Whites. These are aggressive breeds. If you want a peaceful flocks with chickens that are friendly and nice, get breeds that are friendly and nice.

I know. I was being a little dramatic. I've had other breeds that were fine. Actually my last batch of ISAs didn't do this, so seeing them all torn up was kind of surprising. Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[Byrd gal]

Funny my reds are lowest in my flock and are picked on by my black sex links one is a real tyrant.

 

[Mrs. K]

Pin-less peepers - or cull the aggressive birds. Always solve for peace in the flock.