I built this in one day. :)
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Quote:
I need to take a pic of the roost I added. When I built it, I installed two 2x2s about 18 inches from the back of the coop so I could attach a roost. I didn't have time or energy to get it done in the same day. I'll get a pic and post it.
Right now, it's full of pullets and they're not laying. I'll eventually add some nesting boxes. I make mine from plastic file crates from WalMart.
I need to take a pic of the roost I added. When I built it, I installed two 2x2s about 18 inches from the back of the coop so I could attach a roost. I didn't have time or energy to get it done in the same day. I'll get a pic and post it.
Right now, it's full of pullets and they're not laying. I'll eventually add some nesting boxes. I make mine from plastic file crates from WalMart.
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- #13
Quote:
I'll go take a pic of the latch I used. It was $4 at the hardware store.
Also, I had to adjust my design when I added the corner pieces. What I ended up with is very sturdy. I used 2x6 boards for the base. When I bought the 2x4s that I used for the top, I noticed they were really 120.5", so I made the base boards the same length. I wanted the height to be a bit taller than the 48" fencing material I was using, so I cut the vertical boards 50". I used more of the 2x6 boards (we had tons left over from the deck we tore off the back of the house). I screwed the vertical boards to the inside of the base. Then, I cut 2x2s 41" long, 8 of them, and screwed them to the vertical supports so that they were resting on the top of the base boards. This served two purposes: it gave a "ledge" for the top to rest on and nailing surface for the fencing material. I lifed the top up and over the vertical supports and rested it on the 2x2s, screwed it on and it was very sturdy. I'll take some close up pics so you can see what I mean.
I'll go take a pic of the latch I used. It was $4 at the hardware store.
Also, I had to adjust my design when I added the corner pieces. What I ended up with is very sturdy. I used 2x6 boards for the base. When I bought the 2x4s that I used for the top, I noticed they were really 120.5", so I made the base boards the same length. I wanted the height to be a bit taller than the 48" fencing material I was using, so I cut the vertical boards 50". I used more of the 2x6 boards (we had tons left over from the deck we tore off the back of the house). I screwed the vertical boards to the inside of the base. Then, I cut 2x2s 41" long, 8 of them, and screwed them to the vertical supports so that they were resting on the top of the base boards. This served two purposes: it gave a "ledge" for the top to rest on and nailing surface for the fencing material. I lifed the top up and over the vertical supports and rested it on the 2x2s, screwed it on and it was very sturdy. I'll take some close up pics so you can see what I mean.
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- #14
Quote:
My big pen is made of dog kennel panels and the small pen next to this one is a small dog kennel. Nothing wrong with that!
My big pen is made of dog kennel panels and the small pen next to this one is a small dog kennel. Nothing wrong with that!
Quote:
I'll go take a pic of the latch I used. It was $4 at the hardware store.
Also, I had to adjust my design when I added the corner pieces. What I ended up with is very sturdy. I used 2x6 boards for the base. When I bought the 2x4s that I used for the top, I noticed they were really 120.5", so I made the base boards the same length. I wanted the height to be a bit taller than the 48" fencing material I was using, so I cut the vertical boards 50". I used more of the 2x6 boards (we had tons left over from the deck we tore off the back of the house). I screwed the vertical boards to the inside of the base. Then, I cut 2x2s 41" long, 8 of them, and screwed them to the vertical supports so that they were resting on the top of the base boards. This served two purposes: it gave a "ledge" for the top to rest on and nailing surface for the fencing material. I lifed the top up and over the vertical supports and rested it on the 2x2s, screwed it on and it was very sturdy. I'll take some close up pics so you can see what I mean.
Ah that is a good idea. I make a duck house with a similar short rectangular design and had the hardest time getting the wobble out. I just had a 2x4 base and screwed the four corner prices to the inside as well as 2 supports on each side. It was really wobbley so I ended up cutting 45* angle braces for all the corners.
I'll go take a pic of the latch I used. It was $4 at the hardware store.
Also, I had to adjust my design when I added the corner pieces. What I ended up with is very sturdy. I used 2x6 boards for the base. When I bought the 2x4s that I used for the top, I noticed they were really 120.5", so I made the base boards the same length. I wanted the height to be a bit taller than the 48" fencing material I was using, so I cut the vertical boards 50". I used more of the 2x6 boards (we had tons left over from the deck we tore off the back of the house). I screwed the vertical boards to the inside of the base. Then, I cut 2x2s 41" long, 8 of them, and screwed them to the vertical supports so that they were resting on the top of the base boards. This served two purposes: it gave a "ledge" for the top to rest on and nailing surface for the fencing material. I lifed the top up and over the vertical supports and rested it on the 2x2s, screwed it on and it was very sturdy. I'll take some close up pics so you can see what I mean.
Ah that is a good idea. I make a duck house with a similar short rectangular design and had the hardest time getting the wobble out. I just had a 2x4 base and screwed the four corner prices to the inside as well as 2 supports on each side. It was really wobbley so I ended up cutting 45* angle braces for all the corners.
Quote:
I need to take a pic of the roost I added. When I built it, I installed two 2x2s about 18 inches from the back of the coop so I could attach a roost. I didn't have time or energy to get it done in the same day. I'll get a pic and post it.
Right now, it's full of pullets and they're not laying. I'll eventually add some nesting boxes. I make mine from plastic file crates from WalMart.
Another great alternative for nest boxes are kitty litter boxes from Walmart. Really cheap and will be easy to clean when needed.
I need to take a pic of the roost I added. When I built it, I installed two 2x2s about 18 inches from the back of the coop so I could attach a roost. I didn't have time or energy to get it done in the same day. I'll get a pic and post it.
Right now, it's full of pullets and they're not laying. I'll eventually add some nesting boxes. I make mine from plastic file crates from WalMart.
Another great alternative for nest boxes are kitty litter boxes from Walmart. Really cheap and will be easy to clean when needed.
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- #17
Here are the promised pics:
The gate latch, very simple and very secure.
I noticed that the gate could be pushed inward, so I screwed stops onto the frame to prevent it from being pushed inward. There's one in the top corner also.
The inside of the corner, it's a 2x6 screwed to the base frame.
The top of the corner. I screwed 2x2s to the 2x6, mainly to provide a nailing surface for the fencing material that was flush with the base frame and top frame. It also provided a good bit of support and wobble prevention. And it gave a nice resting spot for the top frame to sit on.
I added a roost 18" from the back of the pen. It's about 24" high. I didn't have a 10' board, so I screwed two 6' boards together. These are not really 2x4s, they're more like 1.5x3".
This is the side support.
This is the center support. It's very sturdy.
My bantam cochins think this pen ROCKS!
Keltara, I think the litter box is a great idea for this pen. I'll have to go get one.
The gate latch, very simple and very secure.
I noticed that the gate could be pushed inward, so I screwed stops onto the frame to prevent it from being pushed inward. There's one in the top corner also.
The inside of the corner, it's a 2x6 screwed to the base frame.
The top of the corner. I screwed 2x2s to the 2x6, mainly to provide a nailing surface for the fencing material that was flush with the base frame and top frame. It also provided a good bit of support and wobble prevention. And it gave a nice resting spot for the top frame to sit on.
I added a roost 18" from the back of the pen. It's about 24" high. I didn't have a 10' board, so I screwed two 6' boards together. These are not really 2x4s, they're more like 1.5x3".
This is the side support.
This is the center support. It's very sturdy.
My bantam cochins think this pen ROCKS!
Keltara, I think the litter box is a great idea for this pen. I'll have to go get one.
I love the expressions on the chickens' faces!!
I use litter pans/dish pans from the dollar store inside my wooden nest boxes so that I can remove them and clean or so that I can move a broody if needed.
I use litter pans/dish pans from the dollar store inside my wooden nest boxes so that I can remove them and clean or so that I can move a broody if needed.
I like all the additions! Pretty chickens!
- Jul 10, 2011
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Great job Jenni!!! WOOT 1st post.
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