I don’t know how to build things but I’ll try anyway

[ziggywiggy1]

So I ordered more chicks, which necessitates a larger coop. I decided I want to build my own coop but even after I thought I did a lot of research and bought a bunch of wood, I realized I’ve already made a ton of mistakes. First-I bought 2x4s for building the frame of the coop, I didn‘t realize 2x3s existed and now as I’m watching more videos now everyone is talking about 2x3s. Second-I realize I’ll have to set posts in the ground because I live on the side of a hill and I don’t have a level place to build like a table foundation that I can move in place so I’ll have to go pole barn style. And 4x4s are heavy. I don’t mind doing this, it’s just another layer of planning where the posts should go. Thirdly-nailing things sucks, I already went out and bought screws. Fourth-it’s going to take a lot longer to build than I thought. Luckily the chicks don’t get here til the end of February and won’t be outside until, a couple months after that so I can take my time. There’s no rush, I just have to temper my impatience . It’s about the journey and learning right?

 

[FoodFreedomNow]

As someone who converted an expensive but non-purpose built building into a coop and, later, built my own coop, I'll go with purpose-built every time. Yes, it's a learning process, but I'm of the "if you're going to do something, do it properly" camp. My purpose-built coop was built with 2x4s and it's rock solid - I personally wouldn't go with 2x3s, even if it saves a bit of money in the short term.

 

[Boise-girls]

2x4s are stronger and usually finished better. If you're seeing recommendations for 2x3s, it's probably because they're cheaper, not better. Keep the 2x4s you've already purchased!

 

[U_Stormcrow]

^^^ that.

2x3s aren't structural, are rarely pressure treated, and are usually made from very fast growth whitewoods, meaning prone to twisting and warping. They do have some limited uses, but 2x4s are superior in almost every respect. Screws superior to nails in essentiall every way but speed of instalation.

In other words, as mistakes go, you could have made MUCH bigger ones.

As to your hill? Lots of solutions, but they are very fact specific - including digging a hole, filling it with concrete and rebar, and attaching your coop to your rocky pylon. If you need to raise the concrete above grade, use an old 5 gallon bucket with the whole of the bottom removed to give a clean, strong form above grade, set to whatever depth necessary, and levelled. They make attachment points/brackets (sadly, expensive) that are then set into the curing concrete which allow you to attach lumber while preventing concrete/wood contact. You want a minimum depth at least 8" below the freeze line (which is excessive for a coop, but good practice - and you aren't digging that many holes, anyways.)

 

[Ted Brown]

Fourth-it’s going to take a lot longer to build than I thought. Luckily the chicks don’t get here til the end of February and won’t be outside until, a couple months after that so I can take my time. There’s no rush, I just have to temper my impatience . It’s about the journey and learning right?

I recommend that you make a list of the major phases of your build (foundation, floor, framing, etc.) and estimate the time you think it will take for each phase. Your estimates may be off but you can adjust as you progress.

Time often passes more quickly than we think, particularly when we feel we "can take our time". A plan will help you to recognize when it is time to progress more quickly.

Enjoy the journey!

 

[woodworm]

I hadn't built anything other than flat pack furniture before building my coop a couple of years ago but with a little time and a handful of helpful YT videos I managed.

I'd still take 4x2 over 3x2 now.

 

[ziggywiggy1]

I’m located in the south, so humid and warm most of the time. We almost never get snow, but lots of rain. I think the plan right now is that the next time I’m off I will have a ground leveling day and that’s all I will focus on is leveling the ground because I really don‘t want to concrete posts in the ground. I didn’t want to make this something that can’t be moved later if needed so leveling the ground it is.

I am relieved that buying 2x4s wasn’t a mistake, I was just worried that I was over doing it but I’m glad it should be a sturdier structure.

 

[avjudge]

. . . Fourth-it’s going to take a lot longer to build than I thought. Luckily the chicks don’t get here til the end of February and won’t be outside until, a couple months after that so I can take my time. There’s no rush, I just have to temper my impatience . It’s about the journey and learning right?

That's one thing you can count on in life - it will take at minimum 2x what you expect. This holds for so many things - construction projects, painting, wiring, even prepping for a recipe. I laugh at the "prep time" listed on recipes.

And construction projects are way worse than 2x if you're a perfectionist like me.

 

[NatJ]

Luckily the chicks don’t get here til the end of February and won’t be outside until, a couple months after that so I can take my time.

I would recommend brooding the chicks IN the coop if possible. So I would at least try to have the coop done by the time the chicks arrive.

If you try to keep chicks inside your house until they are "a couple months" old, both you and the chicks will probably be quite unhappy. You will not like them being noisy, stinky, and spreading dust everywhere. They will not like the small space they have to live in (because I've never yet seen an in-house brooder that has enough space for two-month old chicks. I'm not saying it's impossible, just saying it never seems to happen.)

 

[3KillerBs]

I’m located in the south, so humid and warm most of the time. We almost never get snow, but lots of rain. I think the plan right now is that the next time I’m off I will have a ground leveling day and that’s all I will focus on is leveling the ground because I really don‘t want to concrete posts in the ground. I didn’t want to make this something that can’t be moved later if needed so leveling the ground it is.

I am relieved that buying 2x4s wasn’t a mistake, I was just worried that I was over doing it but I’m glad it should be a sturdier structure.

In the US south definitely consider an Open Air style coop. Heat is MUCH more of a problem than cold when it comes to chickens. They're wearing built-in down parkas and can't take them off.

If you put your structure on skids the way you commonly see sheds built you can do the leveling with concrete blocks instead of having to level the ground itself.

Also, consider the fact that your coop may, depending on just where exactly you are, experience tropical storms of varying intensity. We used hurricane ties on everything. The roofing *may* peel (@U_Stormcrow knows a lot about properly installing metal roofing), but the roof itself should stay put.