I installed this automatic coop door a few months ago

It's been super. Remember that mine is under a plastic covered hoop house so the weather doesn't touch it, but it's been fantastic and reliable. I can't see any issue that would develop if it were exposed to the elements (other than freezing rain like in Texas this week, of course).
Thanks for replying! That’s good to know, yeah mine would be under cover as well.
 
put a heater in your water...add roll outs...and use a 100 lb hog feeder...you can leave home for a week and it won’t matter. chickens are the easiest animal.
 
put a heater in your water...add roll outs...and use a 100 lb hog feeder...you can leave home for a week and it won’t matter. chickens are the easiest animal.
Haha, yes I’m actually hoping to build the rollI away nesting boxes in our new coop. I have a 50 gallon water barrel waterer that we made recently, and have plans for a 50gal barrel feeder too.
 
Up until a few months ago, I was manually opening and closing the chicken coop door. The main drawback is that I wouldn't get out there at daybreak and the hens would have to stay in the coop until I opened the door. I searched and found several automatic door openers on Amazon and elsewhere. I discarded those that used strings to open the doors as I felt those doors could be lifted by invaders to enter the coop. I settled on this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0828CZVL7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It has a screw jack to open and close the door. I didn't want to constantly have to change a timer as the days grew longer and shorter so I got the model with the light sensor. Installation was a breeze and it fit my coop opening perfectly after the addition of a wood strip under the door to eliminate a gap. This requires AC power so it won't work for everyone and many would need a solar-powered door. How does it work? Perfectly with only one glitch the first day as it didn't open all the way. How dependable is it? So far, so good, but mine is protected as I have a 12' X 18' hoop house with clear plastic over my chicken coop. Can't say what would happen if exposed to the elements like we have here in Northern MI. But, for $125, it was a bargain for me.

I'm curious how you like your automatic door after 2 months? I read reviews on Amazon. Seems like a lot of people like it at first but have trouble with it not working properly later.

I have 2 automatic chicken doors. One I've had for 3 years. The other I've had for 6 months. Bought both from the same company (https://www.automaticchickencoopdoor.com). With the first one, I had a problem with the power supply cord. The manufacturer replaced it with no charge. I've also had the string break once for some unknown reason. The string is inside the closed box that contains the motor so it is not exposed. DH was able to fix it rather easily. With BOTH doors I've had problems with the timers not working occasionally. This could be related to them running off of a power strip that is fed by long extension cords. I have replaced the timer for the one I've had the longest a couple of times. Overall the automatic door is an absolute necessity for my coops but they have not been maintenance free and without their own struggles. I've never had any problems with a predator being able to get through to door or open it so it has served its purpose well.

I am currently getting ready to build a 3rd coop and looking at options for another automatic door.
 
I'm curious how you like your automatic door after 2 months? I read reviews on Amazon. Seems like a lot of people like it at first but have trouble with it not working properly later.

I have 2 automatic chicken doors. One I've had for 3 years. The other I've had for 6 months. Bought both from the same company (https://www.automaticchickencoopdoor.com). With the first one, I had a problem with the power supply cord. The manufacturer replaced it with no charge. I've also had the string break once for some unknown reason. The string is inside the closed box that contains the motor so it is not exposed. DH was able to fix it rather easily. With BOTH doors I've had problems with the timers not working occasionally. This could be related to them running off of a power strip that is fed by long extension cords. I have replaced the timer for the one I've had the longest a couple of times. Overall the automatic door is an absolute necessity for my coops but they have not been maintenance free and without their own struggles. I've never had any problems with a predator being able to get through to door or open it so it has served its purpose well.

I am currently getting ready to build a 3rd coop and looking at options for another automatic door.
Mine is working fine and I like it. As I've stated before, mine in on a coop that's protected from the elements, but I think it appears to be pretty element-proof. Two things I absolutely did not want (I actually have a string door opener that I've never installed): One operated with a string and one working off a timer. I saw problems with the strings after I got mine. Breakage was one, but also the ability of an intelligent critter getting his fingernails under the door and raising it manually. My option was to find a screw drive. Also, I felt timers would be a pain as the time of sunsets changes dramatically throughout the year. An optical sensor solves this issue. I do have a gap of about 1/2 inch at the bottom of mine which I left thinking that the hens kicking straw around would bunch some up beneath the door and not allow it to close fully. That hasn't happened so I will add a strip of wood on the outside of the coop to close that gap. (I also operate mine off a power strip hooked up with an extension cord.) My power strip runs a 2-gallon hanging waterer with a heater in the coop, the thermostatically controlled exhaust fan in the summer when the temperatures rise, and the coop door. I've had no problems with this.
 
Mine is working fine and I like it. As I've stated before, mine in on a coop that's protected from the elements, but I think it appears to be pretty element-proof. Two things I absolutely did not want (I actually have a string door opener that I've never installed): One operated with a string and one working off a timer. I saw problems with the strings after I got mine. Breakage was one, but also the ability of an intelligent critter getting his fingernails under the door and raising it manually. My option was to find a screw drive. Also, I felt timers would be a pain as the time of sunsets changes dramatically throughout the year. An optical sensor solves this issue. I do have a gap of about 1/2 inch at the bottom of mine which I left thinking that the hens kicking straw around would bunch some up beneath the door and not allow it to close fully. That hasn't happened so I will add a strip of wood on the outside of the coop to close that gap. (I also operate mine off a power strip hooked up with an extension cord.) My power strip runs a 2-gallon hanging waterer with a heater in the coop, the thermostatically controlled exhaust fan in the summer when the temperatures rise, and the coop door. I've had no problems with this.
i have my auto door about 3 feet off the coop floor and about 4-5 feet off of the run ground...just so nothing blows in or out. my roosts sit above the door around 8 feet off the ground. that’s not normal but i would put my roosts as high as possible within reason. my second coop has 15’ ceilings...i put the roosts as high as i can reach.
 
i have my auto door about 3 feet off the coop floor and about 4-5 feet off of the run ground...just so nothing blows in or out. my roosts sit above the door around 8 feet off the ground. that’s not normal but i would put my roosts as high as possible within reason. my second coop has 15’ ceilings...i put the roosts as high as i can reach.
what you see online about roost height is garbage. roost height should always be above nesting box height. nesting boxes can be any height. place roost height as high as you can and roll out nesting boxes as low as you can
 
what you see online about roost height is garbage. roost height should always be above nesting box height. nesting boxes can be any height. place roost height as high as you can and roll out nesting boxes as low as you can
if you have back roll outs, put the first row about 6-12“ off the floor
 

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