I submit my framing and design to you for approval...

[762]

Hello! Never framed anything before so I want to make sure things are up to snuff before I order materials. Please let me know if anything is underbuilt...or overbuilt! I'll gladly swap a 2x6 headers for 2x4s if that's sufficient. Also same with rafters.

Height of the base is 3' and overall footprint is 12x12'. Front elevation is 8' (plus 3' base) and rear is 5', roof pitch is 3/12.

Main concern is the base...is it strong enough for this structure? Those are 4x4s and 2x6s for the base and 2x4s for the joists.

Blue/gray color are windows...all will be hardware clothed and open until it gets cold. Rear will have windows and drop door similar to how Carolina Coops do it. In red is an area I might not side over and leave open for ventilation. Would that be superior to not blocking the rear rafters? I could just leave those open for ventilation instead.

On the front, I will block the rafters to prevent blown rain from getting in too badly. The covered run will butt up against the front just above the very top windows, which will probably always be open since the roof from the run will be there to block rain.

Big opening on the sides is where the laying hutches will go. On the roof, how far do I need to space purlins if I don't use sheathing?

Thanks all!!

 

[Krugerrand]

A general option: it looks really big to be that high off the ground. Is there a reason for that? (ie flood prone) It looks big enough to be walk-in ... but I don't see a door for walking in, plus it gets low for standing inside it.

How many chickens are you planning on? I'll all about off the ground coops for small ones, but as big as that is, you may want to consider dropping the floor some and adding a door for easy access inside of it.

 

[KyCoop]

That was my question. I'm a big fan of raised coops too. But you MUST have access to every corner of it. An access for on every wall as big as yours is.
Mine is small 6 × 5. access doors south and north sides.

 

[762]

That was my question. I'm a big fan of raised coops too. But you MUST have access to every corner of it. An access for on every wall as big as yours is.
Mine is small 6 × 5. access doors south and north sides.

Top two rear doors open and door below is drop down, providing a 4' tall opening to enter. Ceiling is low on the back side (just over 5') but quickly rises to be able to stand in. Ground is on a slope so the downhill side will be 3' high, uphill side will be 2' high. Entering and being able to access all corners won't be a problem.

 

[mowin]

Not a fan of raised coops. Retrieving sick or injured chickens, or eggs, because eventually they will lay under the coop, doesn't sound like fun. I'd put it the coop on 4x4 PT skids and level the downhill side with blocks. You will save time by not having to sink 9 4x4's.

If you still go the raised route, it stick with 2x6 joist unless you have a local saw mill that has ruff cut, then I'd be tempted to use 2x4.
If on the ground and on 4x4 skids, I'd use 2x4's.

 

[MomJones]

Great design, I'd make it a bit lower maybe. Raised coops are a great idea. Our next one will be raised (I hope).

 

[casportpony]

Looks awesome! Make sure you enter the coop contest:
Official BYC Coop Page Contest #13

 

[NatJ]

Height of the base is 3' and overall footprint is 12x12'. Front elevation is 8' (plus 3' base) and rear is 5', roof pitch is 3/12.

Top two rear doors open and door below is drop down, providing a 4' tall opening to enter. Ceiling is low on the back side (just over 5') but quickly rises to be able to stand in. Ground is on a slope so the downhill side will be 3' high, uphill side will be 2' high. Entering and being able to access all corners won't be a problem.

I would make the coop itself taller, and the door as well.

Unless you are shorter than most people, a 4 foot tall opening and a ceiling that starts at 5 feet is going to be very awkward. Any amount of bedding on the floor will make it feel shorter yet.

Since the footprint is 12 feet by 12 feet, you will have to get inside it at cleaning time, unless you have tools with exta-long handles (which would be awkward), and maybe even then.

Depending on where you put the roost, you may be able to open the coop and grab chickens at night without going inside. Depending on where you put the feed and water, you might not have to go inside to tend those either. But I can practically guarantee that at some point there will be a few eggs in an awkward corner, because chickens just do that. And if you need to catch chickens in the daytime, you will probably have to climb inside for that too.

 

[ValarieF]

Hello! Never framed anything before so I want to make sure things are up to snuff before I order materials. Please let me know if anything is underbuilt...or overbuilt! I'll gladly swap a 2x6 headers for 2x4s if that's sufficient. Also same with rafters.

Height of the base is 3' and overall footprint is 12x12'. Front elevation is 8' (plus 3' base) and rear is 5', roof pitch is 3/12.

Main concern is the base...is it strong enough for this structure? Those are 4x4s and 2x6s for the base and 2x4s for the joists.

Blue/gray color are windows...all will be hardware clothed and open until it gets cold. Rear will have windows and drop door similar to how Carolina Coops do it. In red is an area I might not side over and leave open for ventilation. Would that be superior to not blocking the rear rafters? I could just leave those open for ventilation instead.

On the front, I will block the rafters to prevent blown rain from getting in too badly. The covered run will butt up against the front just above the very top windows, which will probably always be open since the roof from the run will be there to block rain.

Big opening on the sides is where the laying hutches will go. On the roof, how far do I need to space purlins if I don't use sheathing?

Thanks all!!
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I love this!

 

[U_Stormcrow]

I have an 8x12 coop, raised 3' off the ground (I have ducks) and even though I can walk into it (trust me, its odd, I have a "U shaped" raised floor, with a full height door at the "open end" of the U), it is still inconvenient to get the back corners, or to crawl under when the ducks lay in an inconvenient place. If the undernath drops to 2' on one end, that's quite low. Nor would I want to stoop in a raised 12x12 for any period of time.

Your sketch up work is excellent, and you HAVE overbuilt. Additionally, you've assumed straight 4x4s. Not at my lumber yard, haven't been any for years. Suggest you google "California Corners". That's built like a people house. 24" oC is fine for walls in a coop unless there are extreme wind loads you are attempting to engineer for?

As drafted, you may find panelling this section to prove challenging, as well, depending on total height, and your choice of siding.