Idaho?

[Kalalyn21]

great thanks

 

[Chickenhill]

Agreed. I contacted the guy on our area to get the paperwork, but he never sent it to me. Does anyone know what it costs and how difficult of a process it is?

Quote: NPIP certification:
Unless you are shipping birds or showing across state lines you don't need to be NPIP.

You need your supplies before you can get an appointment for the vet to come out. Once you have your equipment the folks at the state will pay much more attention to you. As soon as you get your test equipment then get a hold of the state, they will send out all the info you need to get started. Word of wisdom, do not have your first inspection in the winter. Your birds are somewhat dehydrated and it is super hard to get the blood out of them!

Supplies: You need the testing equipment http://www.twincitypoultrysupplies.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=31&products_id=412 this is the least inexpensive place to get it. I do not use the bleeder and loop. I use a size 22 needle for each bird, that way I am not contaminating one birds blood to the next and not having to buy alcohol swabs to swab of the bleeder loop in between. . You poke the bird in the wing bar vein, scoop it with the cup side of the needle, put the drop of blood on the test equipment put a drop of antigen on top of the blood and mix. You have to be very quick as the blood coagulates extremely quick. Unless you are pretty handy with handling, it takes 2 people.

The Salmonella Pullorum/Typhoid Antigen ( is the only test you need for certification) can be bought from the Boise lab. Dorothy at the Boise lab will need to know how many birds you are bleeding (must be over 4 mos old) then she will send you a bottle prorated for the amount of birds you have. To buy a full bottle (1000 dose) costs 149.00 http://www.twincitypoultrysupplies.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=31&products_id=409

Marilyn M. Simunich, DVM, Dipl. ACVPM, [email protected] is the head honcho over there. She is an awesome lady. Dorothy Stroebel, [email protected] is the one to contact to get all your paperwork sent to you in the beginning and when you do your annual testing. I always write Marilyn and CC Dorothy, stuff gets done much quicker that way. Here is Dorothy's # 208-332-8570

If you want to email [email protected] me directly I can give you the paperwork they send you in the very beginning so you can see the detail...

What they look for: The tip of the iceburg...
Feeders and waters must be put in a place where minimal wild birds or rodents can get to them. Food should be put in barrels. You need an to show them how you are controlling mice. I have traps where they go in and cannot come out. When mice/rats die they let loose of their bodily fluids which spreads disease. The other thing I do is place bait in a container only mice can get into I get covers at Steve Reagans. I place mine under my stack cages and in places the chickens can get to easily but if they do the bait is in a chicken proof plastic box...

You need an area for each of the following; Room designated for chicks only where no adult germs can get to them, a room for incubating where not live bird (including chicks) germs can get to them, a place to grow out your stock separately from the adult stock.

You need to tell them how you keep everything sanitary. How you sanitize each area, incubators, hatchers, chick pens, grow outs, and adult areas, what you use to disinfect, and how often. We use Oxine, bleach, and Lysol depending on what area to be cleaned. All coops here are cement floors and enamel painted walls...

Folks coming to your property. You need to have a foot bath ready for your inspection or booties, people must park at the start of you driveway and wash their hands before they can view your chickens. You also need a footbath and hand sanitizer to go from one chicken area to the next.

How do cull and depose of sick birds. We have a place on our property where we burry any birds that show any signs of illness. Chickens DO NOT just get colds. Whatever that one bird is sick with will spread to other and can possibly contaminate the eggs you hatch.

How often do you rotate stock. The older a bird is the more often the more likely it is to be a carrier of a disease. It is suggested to rotate all out and new in once a year. If you keep older stock they should be separated from young stock.

New birds; you need a quarantine area for new birds that come in and know the proper procedure before introducing them to you flock. Introducing new stock is serious business! We had to dispose of 5k worth of birds one year and wait for a year plus days of disinfecting before bringing in new birds. UGLY..

Annual inspections: The first year the vet will help you bleed your birds. The next year they will come inspect your property and the health of your birds. You are responsible to bleed your birds and get the paper work back to the state. They do not stand for someone being late.

Time invested largely depends on how many birds you have. You must test up to 300 birds. We keep about 150 adult birds and it takes my husband and I, 2 days of testing. The inspection takes about an hour each time but the cleaning before hand takes us 2-3days. We test for AI Avian Influenza as well and they come to test for AI every 3 months!

Other cost: The state picks up the tab for the AI and other testing as they have funding. If they don't for the Pullorum /Typhoid I think it is about $1 or 2 per bird.

Let me know if you have further questions Have fun!

 

[pawtraitart]

Is anybody hatching chicks this spring and want a clean/drip free way to water your babies? I'm taking reservations for our new 38 ounce mini brooder bottle, (more sizes in the works) with or without the metal mounting bracket. Front or back mount options. This will mount on wood, plastic, or metal wire cages. Please visit my FB page if you are interested. First shipments will go out in January. Local pickup might be available before then.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.721370021208900.1073741831.529770363702201&type=3

 

[MeAndTheBoyz]

Is anybody hatching chicks this spring and want a clean/drip free way to water your babies? I'm taking reservations for our new 38 ounce mini brooder bottle, (more sizes in the works) with or without the metal mounting bracket. Front or back mount options. This will mount on wood, plastic, or metal wire cages. Please visit my FB page if you are interested. First shipments will go out in January. Local pickup might be available before then.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.721370021208900.1073741831.529770363702201&type=3

we use home-made waterers, re-purposed drink containers (vitamin waters, 1/2 gal juice bottles, etc) with a chicken nipple inserted into the lid. Also have a hanging bucket with nipples on the bottom. I like how yours is mounted to the side. any issues with leakage?

 

[pawtraitart]

There are no issues with leakage with these. I've used the hanging nipple system and always had wet bedding underneath. With these, the bedding stays dry and the mounting bracket keeps the bottle in place. I use the mini sized bottle in my plastic tote brooders, my quail pens, and for my bantams. I use a larger one for my adult chickens and juvenile growout pens.

 

[TarMac]

I have a splash orpington rooster who is free because he is driving me insane with his crowing. He will not work for showing because he has frost bite on his waddles because he does not go up to the lights and roost with the other birds and sleeps on the coop floor at night. He is almost all white and has a good temperament but is a little flighty. Private Message me if you are interested, I am located in Idaho Falls.

 

[MeAndTheBoyz]

Incubation question - since Idaho has such a dry climate, can I assume that the humidity in the 'bator would be lower than the 50-60%? without adding anything, I am hovering around 25-30%. When I fill my water reservoir pie tin (with a piled up dish-towel to increase surface area) it peaks at 45% unless i plug up ventilation holes, then it might creep up to 50%. I have read that pluggin holes is not a good idea, ventilation needs to be maintained.

I am using a home-made bator with a fan and light-bulbs for the heat source. jars of water for heat-sinks. I'll post pics in a lil bit.

Thanks in advance!

 

[MeAndTheBoyz]

Incubation question - since Idaho has such a dry climate, can I assume that the humidity in the 'bator would be lower than the 50-60%? without adding anything, I am hovering around 25-30%. When I fill my water reservoir pie tin (with a piled up dish-towel to increase surface area) it peaks at 45% unless i plug up ventilation holes, then it might creep up to 50%. I have read that pluggin holes is not a good idea, ventilation needs to be maintained.

I am using a home-made bator with a fan and light-bulbs for the heat source. jars of water for heat-sinks. I'll post pics in a lil bit.

Thanks in advance!

and i guess i should mention - my hatch did not go well. we made a few adjustments and are ready to try again, just need to get the humidity figured out

 

[pawtraitart]

and i guess i should mention - my hatch did not go well. we made a few adjustments and are ready to try again, just need to get the humidity figured out

Without any water added, my RH will get down to 16%. I like to keep it around 25 to 35% for days 1-18 and then up to 50% for hatching. It will go up as hatching begins. At least once per season I miss an egg marked to go into the hatcher and it hatches in the incubator turner with a RH around 35% so I don't worry about getting it above 50% to hatch. What you want to do is keep an eye on the air cell size. The air cell size will tell you what range you need to be at for the whole process for your incubator and environment. If the air cell is too small, for example, the chick will be too big to turn properly to pip/hatch.

 

[LuvinBlueBirds]

Hey Pawtraitart,
Is it possible to use your gorgeous golden barred marans with a sold color marans to have a sex-linked cross of chocolate egg layers?