yep. I went back in and changed my alerts, but don't see any tags coming up.
Ideas on a self-sustainable flock?
- Thread starter Minky
- Start date
Went back and changed alert preference again, and C x R = CX. Perhaps I'm coming up with my own abbreviations???
Think my brain just cracked..
This thread is about chickens as food, not pets.
If it 'hurts' you, best to just pass this thread by.
They meant them insulting the looks, no problem with eating them.
I got what you meant
That said, people have different opinions on what birds they like, which is why there are so many breeds
Personally, while I am sure Naked Necks are a perfectly lovable breed, I don't like the naked look either and would not get them. But they also wouldn't work for my climate
Interesting thread.
I wish we could have a rooster so I could try hatching my own chicks. Or even just that we built the new coop bigger so I would have room to expand. Maybe if I built the run big enough? We have enough property to build a second coop though but I don't want to do that.
Maybe if/when I move out.
Don't think I could ever raise my own meat though. Or at least I wouldn't be able kill the older hens.
Anyway, without hijacking the thread or getting too off topic, this is an interesting discussion and I will follow it.
Can you keep the rangers back for eggs or no?
And curious what is meant by layers? I thought DP were layers do? Or is it referring to like leghorns, red and black stars, etc.?
Anyone have experience with stars (also cinnamon queen, comet, isa brown (maybe thats a separate breed?)), etc.?? I want to try some but heard they prolapse a lot. Perhaps not good for a farm
I wish we could have a rooster so I could try hatching my own chicks. Or even just that we built the new coop bigger so I would have room to expand. Maybe if I built the run big enough? We have enough property to build a second coop though but I don't want to do that.
Maybe if/when I move out.
Don't think I could ever raise my own meat though. Or at least I wouldn't be able kill the older hens.
Anyway, without hijacking the thread or getting too off topic, this is an interesting discussion and I will follow it.
Can you keep the rangers back for eggs or no?
And curious what is meant by layers? I thought DP were layers do? Or is it referring to like leghorns, red and black stars, etc.?
Anyone have experience with stars (also cinnamon queen, comet, isa brown (maybe thats a separate breed?)), etc.?? I want to try some but heard they prolapse a lot. Perhaps not good for a farm
I assure you when the birds are plucked they don't feel a thing... And ugly things are easier to eat,,,, Except for lutefisk,,,,which is ugly and impossible to eat..
Hi folks
Im a newbie. Got a mixed flock of 7 for eggs. Currently 3 have started to lay.
I'm thinking ahead and starting to plan how to have a self sustaining flock, that provides my family (family of 5) enough eggs (15-20 a week will be enough for our personal use) and also provides us with enough meat birds for the year. I dont like the idea of eating my layers (who all have names and eat from our hands etc) but next spring we'd like to raise 30-40 chickens for the freezer as well.
On top of this, I know that after a couple years egg production decreases, so would like to raise my own layers in time to take over from the older girls.
Now, to me, it makes sense to get a Rooster- but then, will there be enough genetic diversity? Do I need 2 Roosters? Do people swap Roosters for their "services" ;-)
How would I breed 30-40 eggs (for freeezer birds) does a chicken still only lay one egg every 26 hrs even when they are fertilized? Does that mean all 7 of my egg layers would have to be laying fertilised eggs and sitting on them all day for weeks on end and then all chicks would be hatching one per day etc etc?? Sorry if these are really dumb questions. Ex- city girl here.
How would you manage a flock that you wanted to get 15-20 eggs from each week all year, and raise 30-40 meat birds from March - June??
Important to me- all my meat birds would be free ranging on our land, supplementing with feed.
They would be dual purpose breeds, not those ugly birds that are somewhat featherless and raised just for meat.
Ideally, we'd process the meat birds a few at a time as needed (my husband would do it) but we arent sure if thats practical. The other option would be to drive all 40 to someone else who would process for us, but trying to not incur any costs, and truly live off our land like the olden days...
Any tips, ideas, suggestions welcome. Thanks!!!
You would really benefit from a video on the Youtube Channel "Jassius Wise" video is called Breeding Maintenance Plan or something like that. It Addresses alot of what you ask. Good luck!
How I do it is that year one 1) I got 6 hens and a roo (I thought). Turned out to be 5 hens and 2 roosters. I choose the biggest and best rooster to be the breeder for the flock and culled the other at about 22 weeks, which was still a good age and tender meat for my breed. The other rooster went on to live long enough in the early spring to fertilize all hens eggs. Year 2) Once I had 2 hens go broody in the spring, I culled the other rooster. He was 40 weeks by that time and not as tender so that guy had to be sent to the crock-pot with pintos & onions or chicken & dumplings, etc. (Some slow cooker recipe).
The two broody hens each sat on about 6-8 fertilized eggs of which 12 hatched and 9 survived to adulthood. I don't use incubators as I wish the flock to be self-sustaining like you are talking about. Plus I don't want all that work. I let the chickens do their thing and I simply manipulate the outputs occasionally. I keep mothers and chicks separated from the rest of the grown flock, in their own fence pen with overhead protection, until they are about 8 weeks old.
So of the 9 chicks that hatched: 4 were females and 5 were males. I let the roosters grow up with the flock and interact with the hens until they are about 10-16 weeks of age, depending on several unrelated factors (including convenience for me) and then I put the males in a "chicken tractor" and move them daily on fresh grass. Then hens keep on laying int eh hen house which has access to 2 large "yards" that I switch them back and forth from seasonally, after I grow some more vegetation on the one not in use.
Like in the video I mentioned, I weigh my roosters and hens to see who is progressing well. I culled the smallest 2 roosters at about 15-18 weeks and the meat was very good - as long as it is allowed to age in the fridge dry or in brine water for about 3 days. After that they can be eaten fresh or frozen for later. I culled the next smallest rooster at 20 weeks; still good meat. I left the last two because they were very close in weight. I let them all free range during harvest season (roosters and hens together), by that time in the fall, and they gleaned the cornfield for me - which also prevented attracting (more) mice. This gave me time to observe behaviors and see who was the better leader of the flock. I had a clear winner and as it turned out he also out-gained the other rooster and I culled the last rooster and I was down to one rooster as the breeder for year three.
I also weigh the hens (as I do the roosters) and I only breed the largest and healthiest. One thing to keep in mind, also mentioned in the video I suggested, is that you should be selective in choosing your "breeders". I only collect fertilized eggs from the three largest and healthiest hens. DO NOT allowed fertilized eggs from sick, weak, or small hens to go under a broody hen (or into an incubator). Over time this improves your flock. Over time you breed a particular flock to your specific property; whatever diseases are spread to them by wild birds, whatever insects are common, etc. If one or two hens show a natural immunity to those harmful aspects that come with any specific area, you want to breed that into your continuing flock. This is the best bio-security feature that you can do long term for a self-sufficient flock - selective breeding.
This is where you should be spending your time and effort, not in maintaining an incubator (IMO), but in gathering data from your flock so that you can choose your best "breeders".
Year three I had 4 hens go broody in the spring, who each sat on 8 eggs of which 26 hatched and 22 survived to adulthood. It was an even split 11/11 male/female. Same routine: chick & mothers separated until 8 weeks, males in a chicken tractor at 11 weeks, etc. All the same. Had alot more meat; had alot more eggs. Started having to sell eggs so they did not go bad. Built up a client base and now the chickens more than pay for themselves.
But most importantly, each year when I weigh my chickens they are getting larger and by appearance and behavior, they are getting much healthier. Each new generation is better then the previous one.
A few more pointers in regards to your 2nd post - Fertilized eggs cook up and keep the same as unfertilized eggs. 2) A fertilized egg is technically good for 10 days but I have personally hatched out 18 day old eggs kept a little below room temp. (from a broody hen, not an incubator) 3) Eggs you plan on eating should be refrigerated. Eggs you plan to hatch out should be kept at about 50 degrees to room temp.
4) Processing your own meat birds shouldn't cost you anything. It doesn't cost me anything. 5) I am rather frugal with my chicken raising and so I do not keep a rooster all year. After the spring breeding season, which funny enough I reintroduce my "breeding rooster" back to his hens on Valentine's Day (haha), I cull the last rooster. The frugal part comes in because by March/April - if a chicken is not laying an egg for me than I do not continue buy feed for it. You guys might run your flock differently though. WHo knows. 6) You'll know if a hen goes broody if she doesn't leave the nesting box for a couple of days. Most heritage breeds might start doing this in the spring, as mine do. But in the chicken calendar year, this is the right time to renew/refresh the flock anyway.
Good luck.
The two broody hens each sat on about 6-8 fertilized eggs of which 12 hatched and 9 survived to adulthood. I don't use incubators as I wish the flock to be self-sustaining like you are talking about. Plus I don't want all that work. I let the chickens do their thing and I simply manipulate the outputs occasionally. I keep mothers and chicks separated from the rest of the grown flock, in their own fence pen with overhead protection, until they are about 8 weeks old.
So of the 9 chicks that hatched: 4 were females and 5 were males. I let the roosters grow up with the flock and interact with the hens until they are about 10-16 weeks of age, depending on several unrelated factors (including convenience for me) and then I put the males in a "chicken tractor" and move them daily on fresh grass. Then hens keep on laying int eh hen house which has access to 2 large "yards" that I switch them back and forth from seasonally, after I grow some more vegetation on the one not in use.
Like in the video I mentioned, I weigh my roosters and hens to see who is progressing well. I culled the smallest 2 roosters at about 15-18 weeks and the meat was very good - as long as it is allowed to age in the fridge dry or in brine water for about 3 days. After that they can be eaten fresh or frozen for later. I culled the next smallest rooster at 20 weeks; still good meat. I left the last two because they were very close in weight. I let them all free range during harvest season (roosters and hens together), by that time in the fall, and they gleaned the cornfield for me - which also prevented attracting (more) mice. This gave me time to observe behaviors and see who was the better leader of the flock. I had a clear winner and as it turned out he also out-gained the other rooster and I culled the last rooster and I was down to one rooster as the breeder for year three.
I also weigh the hens (as I do the roosters) and I only breed the largest and healthiest. One thing to keep in mind, also mentioned in the video I suggested, is that you should be selective in choosing your "breeders". I only collect fertilized eggs from the three largest and healthiest hens. DO NOT allowed fertilized eggs from sick, weak, or small hens to go under a broody hen (or into an incubator). Over time this improves your flock. Over time you breed a particular flock to your specific property; whatever diseases are spread to them by wild birds, whatever insects are common, etc. If one or two hens show a natural immunity to those harmful aspects that come with any specific area, you want to breed that into your continuing flock. This is the best bio-security feature that you can do long term for a self-sufficient flock - selective breeding.
This is where you should be spending your time and effort, not in maintaining an incubator (IMO), but in gathering data from your flock so that you can choose your best "breeders".
Year three I had 4 hens go broody in the spring, who each sat on 8 eggs of which 26 hatched and 22 survived to adulthood. It was an even split 11/11 male/female. Same routine: chick & mothers separated until 8 weeks, males in a chicken tractor at 11 weeks, etc. All the same. Had alot more meat; had alot more eggs. Started having to sell eggs so they did not go bad. Built up a client base and now the chickens more than pay for themselves.
But most importantly, each year when I weigh my chickens they are getting larger and by appearance and behavior, they are getting much healthier. Each new generation is better then the previous one.
A few more pointers in regards to your 2nd post - Fertilized eggs cook up and keep the same as unfertilized eggs. 2) A fertilized egg is technically good for 10 days but I have personally hatched out 18 day old eggs kept a little below room temp. (from a broody hen, not an incubator) 3) Eggs you plan on eating should be refrigerated. Eggs you plan to hatch out should be kept at about 50 degrees to room temp.
4) Processing your own meat birds shouldn't cost you anything. It doesn't cost me anything. 5) I am rather frugal with my chicken raising and so I do not keep a rooster all year. After the spring breeding season, which funny enough I reintroduce my "breeding rooster" back to his hens on Valentine's Day (haha), I cull the last rooster. The frugal part comes in because by March/April - if a chicken is not laying an egg for me than I do not continue buy feed for it. You guys might run your flock differently though. WHo knows. 6) You'll know if a hen goes broody if she doesn't leave the nesting box for a couple of days. Most heritage breeds might start doing this in the spring, as mine do. But in the chicken calendar year, this is the right time to renew/refresh the flock anyway.
Good luck.
I have to jump in here and recommend Chanteclers. They're one of the best dual purpose breeds for a cold climate that you can find anywhere, and the only one (to my knowledge) developed in Canada. There are two recognized varieties: White and Partridge. I keep the Partridge. Buffs are a widely bred variety too, but they haven't been accepted to the Standard of Perfection yet. There are many working on it though.
Males reach 9 lbs in maturity and females about 6--7. I can't say much on egg laying from personal experience, but many say they are good reliable layers of brown eggs. They might be worthwhile even using in a cross with some other breeds, since nobody says you have to keep just one.
Ameraucanas are a good pick if you want blue eggs too but they're smaller. Still likely worth eating though, my current cock is probably within a few pounds of the Chantecler males.
I have found Easter Eggers to be even smaller than the AMs but due to how general the 'Easter Egger' label is there can be quite a bit of variation.
Males reach 9 lbs in maturity and females about 6--7. I can't say much on egg laying from personal experience, but many say they are good reliable layers of brown eggs. They might be worthwhile even using in a cross with some other breeds, since nobody says you have to keep just one.
Ameraucanas are a good pick if you want blue eggs too but they're smaller. Still likely worth eating though, my current cock is probably within a few pounds of the Chantecler males.
I have found Easter Eggers to be even smaller than the AMs but due to how general the 'Easter Egger' label is there can be quite a bit of variation.
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