Ideas on how to worm 30 hens by myself?

suburbanhomesteader

Songster
12 Years
Apr 5, 2007
430
5
151
Southern Dallas County, TX
Hello-
Finished reading the post about worming hens with ivermectin drops on the back of the neck. I live alone (except for the flock and the pack) and can't find a friend who wants to volunteer to help; does anyone have any ideas on the best way to solo-treat the flock with these cutaneous drops?

I figure it will be best when they're roosting.
How will I be able to keep track of whose been treated and who hasn't, in the dim light?
If I use my miner's head-light, won't they be running all over the place (they show a lot more moving around in the dark coop than I expected!)?
Will the miner's light provide enough light to see how many drops I've put on?
How do I re-load the syringe easily and accurately, whilst trying to grab untreated chickens?

Any other quesitons I hadn't thought of, or solutions?
 
I couldn't have done it alone.

There has to be someone who will help.

Does Texas have a thread? Someone on here has to live close to you who would be willing to help.
 
Any time i need to do something to all my chickens like that, i contain them somehow.

For example, if you have a coop and run set up, i would keep the pop door closed and treat one chicken at a time. Once that chick has been treated, you put just that one outside....until the coop is empty.

I can't answer the part about the syringe; sorry.

Hope this helps somehow.
 
I put 4 cc of Ivomec per gallon of water for 2 days. This needs to be the only water they have access to, and the water needs to changed and medicated each day.
That's how I do it!

Jean
 
throw the ones that are treated outside... that is simple... then let them back in when you are done. do it a bedtime Have several syringes ready to go and a chair to sit on...And relax and take your time..Hold each one and do a vet check while you are at it. 30 chickens are likely to take you an hour so plan on it and don't get upset...Mark anything you didn't catch with a legband (if you get to tired) and then finish them the next night.
 
Just got back to the computer....

Thanks to everyone for their ideas. I think I need to let them get roosted in the coop, and then put them outside one at a time. They don't normally all roost in the coop, which is only 6x8, so it should be easy to catch them.

I don't want to treat their water; everything I've read says the cutaneous treatment is much more exact. Although depending on how this goes, I may change my mind for next time!

Geebs-
That is a great idea! I don't have leg bands, but I could bring along a marker and paint they little heads with it as I do them, thus leaving the untreated ones with no mark.

Had not thought of pre-loaded syringes; that is a stroke of genius!

Could you describe what you would do for a "vet check"? Is this where I'd check the south end to see if it looks like they're still laying (I have some 3 year olds, some 2, and some are just a year old)? Do they open up and say "ahh"? I hang out with them fairly regularly, so I notice if one doesn't look healthy every now and then, but would love to know what I could do upon closer inspection
 
Have you heard about using FOOD GRADE diatomaceous earth? It's a naturally occurring mineral-based pesticide made up of fossilized water plants. I've read up on it thoroughly today, as I'm trying to get rid of mites. Everything I've read says this natural product is effective for lice, mites AND for worms in chickens, and it's safe, except the fine powder can be damaging to lungs, so you need to wear a mask. You can add it to feed, at a rate of 2% per dry weight of food. And you don't have to discard the eggs for two weeks after, as you may have to with (some?) deworming pills, I believe.

One web site says: Added to poultry feed - daily use can result in fewer worms, less mortality and better feathering. There are many different trace minerals contained in diatomaceous earth that are beneficial to poultry. The dose that is commonly used in most animals from poultry to cats, dogs and even cattle is between 2 and 5% (follow the manufacturers recommendations) added to their feed.

http://urbanchickens.org/blog/diatomaceous-earth-great-your-flock

http://www.ehow.com/how_5025144_remove-lice-chickens.html

http://www.critterchat.net/diearth.htm

Not sure if this is helpful for you, but it sounds like it would be a very simple procedure.
 
Quote:
Gonda, it is mostly accepted that d.e. is good for prevention but not as much for treatment if your chickens have a worm problem that needs to be taken care of in a jiffy. Many use it as a long term preventative, however, and have reported great results.
 
I have done mine by myself before. Wait until the go to sleep and get them in their coop. Get some blue coat and spritz each one you get right in the center of their backs. then you can tell at a glance who has been gotten and who hasnt.
 
Yes, definately do it after they roost. And the miners light works good too. Catch the birds and sit or kneel with the bird on your lap but being restrained with your right arm/elbow so your hands are both free. Use your left hand to move feathers and the syringe in your right hand. Its hard to describe but it can happen. I did about 45 last fall by myself. The guineas were the hardest. Some of the birds actually just stayed on thier roost and sat still while i put it on. I also filled about a 2 tsp size syringe and did several before reloading. That pour on ivermectin knocks out the lice quick!
 

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