In process coop build, would love metal roofing advice.

[3KillerBs]

Large PC fans work great.

I would still fear the fire hazard of anything not specifically designed for and rated for barn use.

I'm a great fan of passive ventilation, though I know that some buildings that weren't purpose built for it are difficult to convert.

 

[Mouthpear]

I would still fear the fire hazard of anything not specifically designed for and rated for barn use.

I'm a great fan of passive ventilation, though I know that some buildings that weren't purpose built for it are difficult to convert.

The pc fans are sealed coils. There is basically no contact. That's why they can run none stop.

Passive is great. Less fuss. Always prefer a passive system over one that will require maintenance.

 

[QODTMWTD]

I live in Waxhaw, NC which gets stupid humid in the summer with mild winters. I am building my big coop currently while my little girls are in a temporary structure.

My coop is mobile because of setback restrictions which would have required the coop to be about 2 feet from my pool. LOL.

I bought a used trailer that has a 4' x 8' base. I put down wood to frame the floor, added wire mesh and put a plywood base on top. The lean to is 7' tall on the people door side and 5' tall on the chicken door side. I added two wall jut outs on the 4' sides over the trailer tires. One side has a long roosting bar with two slide out poop trays for cleaning. The other side has an isolation area, 2 nesting boxes and cabinet storage above.

I added two wall vents on opposite ends over the doors. I also will have roof openings covered by wire mesh and I am in process of creating a dutch door where the top piece can be solid in the winter and wire mesh in the summer for added ventilation.

My question is about metal roofing which I have never done before. I put up 2 x 4s and topped it with plywood. But now, I'm rethinking the plywood because I need additional boards every two feet to screw to the metal. I thought the plywood would make it less noisy for the birds, but I'm worried about trapping moisture and creating mold areas. So, I am wondering if I should just attach the 2' pieces inside the coop under the plywood to screw the metal roofing into OR if I should remove the plywood and put the 2' pieces on top of the current boards. I had planned to do underlayment and then attach the metal.

I can reuse the plywood, I still have my poop boards to make so I'm not concerned with removing the plywood if people think that is the smartest call.

Would love suggestions. I've attached a few pictures from my work in progress.

Thanks!

South Dakota Guy is right: Metal roofs will drip condensation, sometimes even if they're lined. Spray foam will keep them from dripping inside the coop, but I don't know how practical that is for a smaller application. We're in east Texas and it gets very humid every night in the summer. The grass is soaking wet like it got rained on and moisture condenses on the metal roof of our metal barn and runs off. There are several spots inside the coop where it drips inside, too. We're replacing the metal and adding spray foam insulation to the roof next month. Your coop looks beautiful and with the clerestories you might have enough ventilation to keep condensation from forming if there's a breeze, but if the wind is calm over night it's another story.

 

[Mouthpear]

Metal roofs will drip condensation, sometimes even if they're lined.

if that is the case then the application was done wrong.

"You might think the heat from outside is causing condensation on your roof, but the main culprit comes from below. The heat your house generates can leak into the attic, making contact with your cool metal roof. Thus, condensation can accumulate in the attic."

This is why it is important to use an underlayment. Spray foam is good but it too can trap moisture if it is not done correct. The pray foam guys, down the road from where I work, said they have to take a sample to make sure the foam is actually bonding to the surfaces. I saw a video where that explained it all very clear and in detail, I will try and find it and post.

You can also use Bubble Reflective Insulation Sheet to Window Insulation for Summer,Double Side Aluminum Foil Insulation Roll for Keep Heat,59"x 99" Thermal Insulation Shield,RV Window Insulation. Installed under the rafters will not only reflect heat back in an keep it from hitting the metal roof and condensating, it will make a "smoother" surface for heat to move along to the venation openings, it also keeps a nice air pocket, between the roof and the bubble layer, makes an extra layer of insulation.

Works in reverse during the summer months.

 

[3KillerBs]

moisture condenses on the metal roof of our metal barn and runs off. There are several spots inside the coop where it drips inside, too.

Some climates have more of a humidity challenge than others, but most of these issues are due to inadequate airflow.

Your coop looks beautiful and with the clerestories you might have enough ventilation to keep condensation from forming if there's a breeze, but if the wind is calm over night it's another story.

Again, bearing in mind that some climates make condensation inevitable, a well-designed passive ventilation system does not require a breeze to keep the airflow going.

Repecka Illustrates Coop Ventilation

The heat warm air rising inside the coop should flow up toward an opening at the very top and cool air should move in at the eaves to replace that air -- keeping a constant flow underneath the roof to carry the moisture away.