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Vampire Gardener
Chirping
- Apr 25, 2023
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Anyone in North Carolina have a metal roof? Wondering about condensation and best efforts to avoid it. Thanks!
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Lots of ventilation.......like @3KillerBs has.Anyone in North Carolina have a metal roof? Wondering about condensation and best efforts to avoid it. Thanks!
I added two wall vents on opposite ends over the doors. I also will have roof openings covered by wire mesh and I am in process of creating a dutch door where the top piece can be solid in the winter and wire mesh in the summer for added ventilation.
Thanks! Yes, I will have air flow from the eave to the ridge closed off by wire mesh. Plus, the two vents I cut in below them, one over the 5' tall wall and one over the 7' tall wall. I may extend the width of those if needed, but I wanted to keep drafts away from the roost and nesting box cut outs so I only did those vents 4' wide on the short wall and door wide on the tall door. My dutch door top (wired meshed in the summer) and ador door should also add some airflow. I live on an acre and a half with a heavily wooded part of the yard that I plan to keep the coop in during the summer. With it being mobile, I hoped to move it to the best climate for the season.Good morning. from Moore County.
Now that I've looked at the whole thread,
Your build looks really nice. There's more ventilation than most coops, but I don't know if you've got enough for our climate. I *personally* find that I have to either have a coop in DEEP shade or have at least double to triple the recommended 1 square foot per adult standard-sized bird in order to keep the coop under 100F on a 90F day.
I couldn't quite tell from the photos, do you have vents at the bottom of the roof slope as well as the top? That airflow directly under the metal is key to both preventing heat from building up and preventing, or at least minimizing, condensation.
View attachment 3567647
Metal roof installed on purlins is very easy to work with. It is the go-to for most animal housing I've seen in our state.
I wanted to keep drafts away from the roost and nesting box cut outs
I live on an acre and a half with a heavily wooded part of the yard that I plan to keep the coop in during the summer. With it being mobile, I hoped to move it to the best climate for the season.
I think I will pull down the plywood and add purlins. I was considering insulation board or roll, but I'm thinking that is probably a no at this point due to condensation.
Thanks! I was actually considering using the old bubble solar sheet that is blocking rain from my trailer currently. Appreciate it.In central TX here, roller coaster humidity plus currently in the Heat Bomb. My metal barn has a similar 3-ply insulation to this (hope you can open the link):
https://www.amazon.com/Reflective-Insulation-Radiant-Barrier-Commercial/dp/B07SR7C5P6/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=Metal+Building+Insulation&qid=1688749884&sr=8-8&th=1
I used some of that leftover insulation underneath the metal roof of my chicken run (8'x10') addition last year. Frame and purlins, then the insulation tacked on, then metal roof attached using those special screws with rubber washers (?gaskets). Insulation under a metal roof makes a big difference in blocking heat, especially in full sun sites like my barn and chicken run. Also, no condensation dripping.
If you plan to move your coop around the backyard (hence the trailer??) metal over purlins will be less weight than plywood sheets, IMHO.
I'm in central NC. I have a metal roof on my coop that I built. Mine's a hack job compared to yours!Anyone in North Carolina have a metal roof? Wondering about condensation and best efforts to avoid it. Thanks!