In the beginning.... (Warning Pic heavy Tractor build and a bit cheesy!)

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by petrel, Sep 18, 2013.

  1. maizefield farm

    maizefield farm Hatching

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    Apr 14, 2013
    Rives Junction, MI
    Great design. I am working on a very similar design now. Its good to know that it should work!! What are the dimensions?
     
  2. petrel

    petrel Chats with Chickens

    Thanks!

    The base footprint is 16' X 6'. The run height is 6'. The coop is 6' X 6' X 3'. Can't remember the height at the peak of the roof. Good luck with your tractor!
     
  3. NeTexasDude

    NeTexasDude Hatching

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    Aug 28, 2014
    Just built a big tank like this one and it too is over 1000 lbs. Have you come up with a solution yet? I use a 8 ft pipe and a 6x6 block to lift up one end, put a 2" x 12" pipe under each side pull then use two more pipes under it before it noses down and when I stop use the block and pipe again to lift and remove the pipes. This moves when wet dry or what ever but is a pain in the rear. My old 5x10 ft coop has been in operation for almost 10 years but is a simple dog kennel wrapped with hardware cloth and a metal roof mounted on two 14 ft 2 7/8" drill pipe with both ends curved up. It moves easy with my adv, car, or what ever and has NO cross braces within the coop only one sucker rod on each end outside the coop so NO problem moving with chickens inside. This wood one is stupid heavy... looks good and totally functional just need cantilever wheels on each corner. I will try to get my wife to take some pics to share. Thanks and hope you come up with a wheel system so moving our coops aren't such a chore.
     
  4. petrel

    petrel Chats with Chickens

    We are still using the wheel system I posted on 01/06. It is cumbersome, but not difficult. The children move the coop each morning. It takes 6-8 minutes for the move.

    I have come up with two easier solutions. Unfortunately, they are both expensive. The first would be just an overbuilt "cam over" wheel on a lever design like you see on most tractors. The one we would require would probably take over $300.00 of custom welding work, plus materials, and a bit of trial and error. The second is to order a pair of fat tire Australian trailer jacks, or what they call Jockey wheels. Aussies have access to an amazing array of heavy duty "fat tire" jacks that would do the job. Unfortunately, that is another expensive option.

    This is the link to the Australian Jockey Wheel Jack I think would do the job. I've spent some time looking for a US distributor of this product or something similar, but have had no success yet. I like this solution best: http://www.manutec.com.au/default.a...RODUCTCAT&catid=41&catalogue=3&prodid=JWSW-11 With a pair of these, I believe I could move my tractor on those wheels alone in all but the wettest conditions.

    This is an example of the ready to use tractor lift and wheel system I mentioned. I may just take the images from this site to the welding shop and get them to make one just like it, just "on steroids." http://chickencoopwheels.com

    I don't know what my coop weighs. However, I know that each of the four pneumatic tires I use are rated for 350# each. When I set it down, they spread out pretty good. This indicates, to me, that they are at or near capacity.

    I welcome your insights and experiences with your tractor. Please post a photo when you get a chance.
     

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