Most motion sensors to operate lights are designed to detect people and not small animals so that they aren't cycling on and off all the time. They're designed to detect human intrusion and ignore animals under a certain weight.The only thing I was thinking of investing in, over time, is a couple of light sensors, to put out by the goats/chicken coops, so they'll turn on in there's movement, just to deter predators, or in case we need to go out there late at night.
I free range my birds, and so far, we've been pretty lucky that they prefer to stay close to home and are smart enough not to jump fences. I'm actually really looking forward to my great pyr's protecting our property ourside at night... since illegal aliens crossing our property is more likely than a racoon!![]()
@Sally Sunshine Ahhh... to be pets, food?
So when you choose one, get something that will activate by movement on the ground.
So you probably want an active sensor rather than a passive (PIR)
The trouble with an active (besides their price) is that they can be activated by things like blowing branches, leaves, large insects or even lightning.
You may be able to mount and adjust a PIR to detect small animals but it will be trial and error.
http://www.safewise.com/resources/motion-sensor-guide
http://www.safewise.com/blog/the-5-best-motion-sensor-lights-under-50/The electric fences probably help deter people from coming into our yard, too. LOL
We use a solar powered one.
Just out of curiosity, if we wanted a solar powered motion light, do you have one you guys would recommend. I may put it on my christmas list.... since my husband will probably spank me if I keep asking for new gadets every few weeks for our chickens. He still has to make the fence for the new free-range area and build me milking stands for the goats. LOL
When I make suggestions about predators, I keep forgetting that you have dogs out around your animals so that makes a big difference.
It doesn't hurt to lower the temp. They are now generating a lot of heat on their own. The temp near an egg about to hatch will be significantly higher than in the rest of the incubator.Do I need to lower the temp in my bator now that a couple of the chicks have hatched? I seem to remember reading somewhere that it's good to do that. Or is that for when they are all out and about?
Quote:my daughter's fingers are swollen like 5x their normal size after getting her second sting by a bee... I kind of want to take her in to get an epi pen but my hubby is telling me im over reacting.
Im not worried about today, i'm worried about what happens NEXT time.
Her first sting... no reaction but a small red spot.
Her second sting, swelling like 10x their normal size on fingers....
so third, or fourth time.. leads me to believe, an epi pen may be needed to hav eon hand, just in case? where 30-45 minutes from an ER if she gets stung again.
Did you see the house oversight committee hearings yesterday where they grilled the CEO of the epi-pen mfg. for price gouging by raising the price 500% in 9 years?
The company's profits on EpiPen have grown from about 150 million to over a billion in that time.
She happens to be the daughter of a senator and the daughter of the President of the National Association of State Boards of Education who used her position to get EpiPen in all schools nationwide.
http://www.usatoday.com/story/news/politics/2016/09/20/family-matters-epipens-had-help-getting-schools-manchin-bresch/90435218/
In Louisiana but not in the north.It seems like most people shoot for February kids.
The motion tends to energize the embryo.OKay, So. 4 out of 5 Chicks hatched now, the last one pipless (it is alive though)
Is it wise to let all 4 of the new soccer team kick their sibling around? Or take them out and transfer to the brooder once all are fluffed up to let the lone baby hatch in peace?
I think they should all be okay together, but I'm not sure.
...
Some pics of the newbies
*Bottom pic is of the chick in the membrane from the second last
Don't open the incubator if hatching is imminent. The chicks can stay in there a while.
Since you can't see in there well, leave them. I don't remove eggs unless they leak or stink.So, yesterday was day 7 of my incubation of 7 eggs (aruacuna eggs, though father is a light sussex), and when candling I could only see veins in one egg....the other egg shells are kinda dark, and Im not all that experienced at this...there appeared to be air cells in most the other eggs though...
Should I consider all but the veiny egg to be clear and toss them, or should I keep them a little longer and hope?
This is only my second time incubating eggs so I'm a little lost at this point...any advice would be helpful.
I've done eggtopsies when I thought they weren't viable and opened live embryos. Sinking feeling for sure.
Quote:Lone egg has pipped now, so I may wake up to 5 chicks
Hehe, It's cool. The other babies before hand had just hatched so they needed to fluff up anyways. Hopefully the loner works hard to hatch while they sleep, or early in the morning. Been a great first hatch so far! Started with 6 eggs, ended up with five due to the 6th being infertile.
Nerve wrecking, and so joyous. I think I may do quail eggs next...
But first I will get a new incubator with a turner and fan! Stryobator is cool though, learnt so much, and all you guys have been so helpful![]()
Amazing how so much happens in those little eggs
Really appreciating each of their little claws on each toe, and their tiny little nostrils and scales. Amazing.

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