Not at all; the rule is "Without pics it didn't happen"![]()
Oh!! That's easy I thought maybe I was offending some one. No butchering planned unless the Orpington's don't start laying. They have been moved to greenhouse for now
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Not at all; the rule is "Without pics it didn't happen"![]()
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Clear eggs at candle may contain both truly infertile or
they may contain (fertile) embryos that died early.
http://anrcatalog.ucanr.edu/pdf/8134.pdf
Fertility in hatching eggs Click here
FACTS AND MYTHS FERTILE EGGS
http://www.the-chicken-chick.com/2013/01/facts-and-myths-about-fertile-eggs.html
Embryonic Development, Day by Day images
http://www.thepoultrysite.com/articles/1459/embryonic-development-day-by-day/
FERTILES below!BELOW:From this web page: http://www.hatcheryoffice.com/embryology/determfert.htmThe next two are fertile eggs at slightly different stages, but both freshly laid. Usually, you look for the bulls eye/donut appearance, but there are different stages of development of even freshly laid eggs and the two last pictures demonstrate that. This is caused by cells in the center of the blastoderm dying off and leaving a cleared out area, making that bullseye appearance.
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Can roosters be infertile?
Hatching egg fertility (the number of fertile eggs produced by a flock) is affected by a number of factors - some affect female fertility and others affect male fertility. You can actually 'milk' a rooster to collect semen and examine it under a microscope to see if it contains active sperm. Other factors include the type of lighting program and the ratio of males to females. Roosters, as with hens, are long day breeders in that they breed when days are long (more than 12 hours). The optimum ratio of male to females depends are the breed but are typically 1 rooster for every 6-8 females. If there are too many roosters they fight rather than breed the hens.
Avian Female Reproductive System
http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/ASC/ASC201/ASC201.pdf
- Candle of a Fresh EGG post #1751
infertile eggs
- It is possible to candle and see if an egg is viable 12 hours into incubation post #29562
- 34 hours candle post #28111
- Day 2 candle post #18795
- Day 3 candle post #40800
Here is a pea egg after being in the incubator for 7 days.
EARLY INCUBATION QUITTERS
It looked good enough to eat. This is what I thought early quitters looked like:
Fertility:
- IS IT FERTILE? Many images see post #43324
- Managing Fertility click HERE
- Several Reasons Why Your Hens May Stop Laying Eggs click HERE
- Winter Blues w/the Roos, why are my eggs infertile ugh starting post #1986
- Reproductive Physiology of the Hen post #40628
- HOW long does a ROO SPERM REMAIN IN HEN post #40628
- Polyspermy is typical in birds. Several sperm enter the germinal disc region post #40644
Example 57 out of 126 were declared fertile.
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- Hatch Rates
Example 50 of the 57 fertile eggs hatched the % hatch=![]()
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This is my dream incubator for the future![]()
I was just wondering do the egg trays come with dividers? Can you not fit as many in with the dividers?
Good luck with your incubation![]()
Yes, it comes with lots of dividers, and unlike the smaller Brinsea's, the dividers are simple thick solid plastic (thin enough to bend reasonably easy). However, when you use them I typically end up with about 1/2 of an egg space at the end of each row, limiting me to 42 in a tray. As long as their isn't a lot of space between the eggs, there's no clicking or chipping when the turner turns. If anything, I kinda think this is more like it would be under a broody...;-]
I've started the growout pen build. Not going as fast as I'd like for it to be, but I am making a little progress.
4 - 4"x4"x10' treated posts form the foundation of roughly 100 square feet.
2"x4" treated lumber (ripped in half) create the wall frames. It's lightweight so it'll need additional diagonal bracing. Front wall is 6' 3" and back wall is 4' 6", which provides more than adequate slope.
That's it so far, but my goal is to at least get the roof on it before the day's up...
Carry on. chop chopI've started the growout pen build. Not going as fast as I'd like for it to be, but I am making a little progress.
4 - 4"x4"x10' treated posts form the foundation of roughly 100 square feet.
2"x4" treated lumber (ripped in half) create the wall frames. It's lightweight so it'll need additional diagonal bracing. Front wall is 6' 3" and back wall is 4' 6", which provides more than adequate slope.
That's it so far, but my goal is to at least get the roof on it before the day's up...