INCUBATING w/FRIENDS! w/Sally Sunshine Shipped Eggs No problem!

[Sally Sunshine]

Quote: thank you

Quote:

Quote: https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/incubating-w-friends-helpful-notes-links-informational-post-links

Hi everyone I'm new, and attempting my first hatch of just 14 eggs here in SW Montana. Need some advice please. I candled my eggs since its day 5 and I can confirm at least 1. I can see the embryo and the veins, but the rest just have a shadow and not really seeing any veins. When should I check again and remove the bad eggs.

@BlueEyes12977 WELCOME!!! I am sure this was answered, but candle again day 7 leave them in until at least day 10 if they dont stink. Have you calibrated thermo hygros? know that humidity is not a set number? and what temp are you running at in your bator? fan or no fan and what kinda bator? See if these can help you at all!

UPDATE:​

I have pulled extremely helpful NOTES, LINKS &​

Informational Post Links from this entire thread​

for EVERYONE'S convenience and will continue to put them HERE:​

https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/incubating-w-friends-helpful-notes-links-informational-post-links
​

 

[jwlpoultry]

Sally I need to update. Well my little sister turned the nob that sets the temp in the bator and fried my eggs so now I am down to 39 Barred rock eggs will give another update later.

 

[campingshaws]

I need to order my thermostat today. Wafer or digital? I'm leaning toward digital.

 

[BantyChooks]

Is this the one with frostbite?
I read others mention petroleum jelly. That is supposed to work to prevent frostbite. However it has no curative powers. A better application would be a triple antibiotic ointment or aloe. Try not to rub or abrade the damaged tissue.
Crowing is a good sign.
I had 2 in my cellar I though were goners earlier this year. They're back out doing their thing, albeit with much reduced combs and wattles.
The damaged tissue will protect the tissue underneath till it falls off.
Continue to watch for infection.

Yes.
I have aloe plants, so I'll try that. Thanks!
He's crowing and dancing for the hen I stuck in there, lol.... Ya couldn't tell anything had happened by his behaviour.
-Banti

 

[Sally Sunshine]

If she were mine and I decided to use Safeguard I think I would give 0.23ml per pound for five days in a row, that will treat all worms, but if you want to treat just the large roundworms, give it once and repeat in 10 days.

-Kathy
"fenbenSafeguard Will treat large roundworms, cecal worms, capillary worms, gape worms, gizzard worms, possible some species of tape worms". It will not treat eye worms, might not treat oviduct flukes

Internal parasites (endoparasites, worms, helminths)

Roundworms (nematodes)

• Acuaria spp ~ Dispharynx ~ Synhimanthus spp. $. Gizzard worms. Gizzard, esophagus and proventriculus. Can be a problem in endemic regions, mainly in birds kept outdoors.
• Ascaridia spp. $$$. Chicken roundworms. Small intestine. A serious problem worldwide, also in confined operations.
• Capillaria spp. $$. Hairworms. Crop, esophagus, small intestine, large intestine.
• Heterakis spp. $$$$. Cecal worms. Cecum. Probably the most threatening worms in all kind of poultry operations worldwide.
• Oxyspirura spp. $. Fowl eyeworms. Eyes. Usually a secondary problem in individual birds kept outdoors.
• Strongyloides spp. $$. Threadworms, pinworms. Small intestine. Can be a serious problem worldwide.
• Subulura spp. $. Cecum and small intestine. A secondary problem in birds kept outdoors worldwide.
• Syngamus trachea. $$. Gapeworms. Trachea, bronchi. A serious problem in birds kept outdoors in endemic regions.
• Tetrameres spp. $. Proventriculus and esophagus. Can be a problem in endemic regions, mainly in outdoor opertaions.

Tapeworms (cestodes)

• Amoebotaenia cuneata = sphenoides. $. Small intestine. Usually a secondary issue in most poultry operations
• Choanotaenia infundibulum. $. Small intestine. Usually not a major issue in modern poultry operations.
• Davainea proglottina. $. Minute tapeworms. Small intestine. Can be a problem in birds kept outdoors in endemic regions.
• Raillietina spp. $$. Small intestine. The most frequent tapeworm in poultry, however normally not a major problem.

Flukes (trematodes, flatworms)

• Prosthogonimus spp. $. Oviduct flukes. Oviduct, bursa of Fabricius. Can be a serious threat for birds kept outdoors in endemic regions.

Capillary worms









This chick had 3 cc Safeguard in the water:


Those are roundworms, the easiest of all the worms to kill.

-Kathy

Okay, so I put a pea sized amount of wormer in some water it and it dissolved pretty good, still a couple of small flakes that I couldn't break up but she's drinking it, hopefully she'll get enough in her that it will help and she'll want to eat more than meal worms and scraps from one of our chickens we're roasting tonight. I'll give her a bit more tomorrow maybe if I can tempt her to eat.

You need to give her 1.15 ml orally (4-5 pea size amounts), not in the water.

-Kathy

Clear tote, that's a great idea!

The dosage measurements are for 10% paste. ie there is 100mg of active ingredient for 1g (1000mg) of paste.

So...

0.5cc of paste ~= 0.5g of paste

0.5g of paste = 500mg of paste

500mg of (10%) paste contains 50mg of active ingredient

A dosage of 50mg active ingredient per 1kg body weight

=500mg of (10%) paste per 1kg body weight

=0.5g of paste per 1kg body weight

=0.5cc of paste per 1kg body weight
If your bird weighs 2kg then you would need 1cc (or 1g) of paste.



-Kathy
Quote:

From Plumb's Veterinary Drug Handbook - 7th Edition

Cecal worm



Capillary worms




Gapeworm





Fenbendazole is approved in the USA for use in growing turkeys at the rate of 14.5 g/ton of feed (16 ppm), fed continuously as the sole ration for 6 days for the removal of Ascaridia dissimilis and Heterakis gallinarum. No withdrawal time is required. One study indicates a possible negative effect on sperm quality by the drug. It has been suggested that an alternative drug be used for treatment of breeding toms or that the sperm number and frequency of artificial inseminations be increased. Fenbendazole is not approved for use in other poultry in the USA but is effective against Ascaris when administered once at 10–50 mg/kg; if needed the treatment can be repeated after 10 days. At 10–50 mg/kg, fenbendazole when administered daily over 5 days is effective against Capillaria. Fenbendazole is also efffective against other nematodes when administered at 10–50 mg/kg/day for 3–5 days or as a single dosage of 20–100 mg/kg, or added to the drinking water at 125 mg/L for 5 days or to the feed at 100 mg/kg. Fenbendazole should not be administered during molt, because it may interfere with feather regrowth.

Fenbendazole at 20 mg/kg for 3–4 days effectively removes gapeworms in pheasants. Toxicity has been reported in pigeons that received fenbendazole at the rate of 30 mg/kg for 5 days. Thiabendazole administered at 0.05% in the feed continuously for 2 wk can be used for treatment of gapeworms in pheasants, and when given continuously for ≥4 days is said to help prevent and control infections. Withdrawal of 21 days is required for meat consumption; specific precautions should be observed in feeds containing bentonite. Tetramisole at 3.6 mg/kg for 3 consecutive days in the drinking water removes gapeworms. Poultry treated while larvae are migrating in the body develop immunity to gapeworms, even though therapy may abort larval migration. Levamisole fed at a level of 0.04% for 2 days or at 2 g/gal. drinking water for 1 day each month has proved to be an effective control in game birds. Kiwis are reported to be acutely sensitive to levamisole at doses well within the safe range for domesticated poultry. Mebendazole fed prophylactically at 64 ppm or curatively at 125 ppm is effective in turkey poults. Cambendazole provided control when given in three treatments of 50 mg/kg for chickens and 20 mg/kg for turkeys. Albendazole administered as a single oral suspension (5 mg/kg bird weight) was reported effective against A galli, H gallinarum, and C obsignata. The drug also has been reported effective against cestodes if administered at 20 mg/kg. There are no published withdrawal times. Nitarsone at 170 g/ton (0.01875%) of feed has been reported to reduce A dissimilis fecundity and worm burden in chickens and turkeys.

http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/poultry/helminthiasis/overview_of_helminthiasis_in_poultry.html

All of these are 10% Fenbendazole

Liquid = 100mg/ml and Paste = 100mg/gram














-Kathy


Quote:

ROUNDWORMS






POOP ALL About CHICKEN POOP sometimes it is runny clear a must read! post #51529


Found this in coop. The poo chart is close to good and bad. Is this normal? Pic of same poo.


And

The poop page, that chat allotment one, is flawed... IMO, foamy poops are never normal. Could be worms, coccidia or something else. Do you know which one did it?

-Kathy

Water soluble 20% fenbendazole (Safeguard) - 200mg/ml - Available in Europe?

http://fs-1.5mpublishing.com/images/MSD/PDF/PAP PBulletin v8c FINAL.pdf



Quote:

@casportpony IS there a way we can get this post straightened out as it should be? I dont want others to get confused or miss informed.

 

[BantyChooks]

Sally I need to update. Well my little sister turned the nob that sets the temp in the bator and fried my eggs so now I am down to 39 Barred rock eggs will give another update later.

Oh no!!!

 

[Chaos18]

Quote: Habanero peppers aged in tequila work the best.

Quote: thank you

Quote:

I need to order my thermostat today. Wafer or digital? I'm leaning toward digital.

I'd go digital.

 

[ChickenCanoe]

Can yall help me? I am doing my first hatch and doing the dry incubation method. I am hatching serama eggs. The temp in my bator ranges from 98.2-99.7. Is this an ok range? Everytime I try to bump it a tad it gets to warm then eventually settles into this range. I am in Day 2 of the hatch.

If the temps are accurate, 98.2 is too low. With that range, depending on how quickly your thermometer measures, I'm guessing the interior egg temp is in the low 98s,

Thanks for the response. It is not still air, it should have a fan. I've called them hygrometers only because they measure temp and humidity. The humidity stayed between 60 and 75% I meant to say the temps ranged from 98.5 to 100. The incubator thermometer said 98.5 but the other calibrated said 99.5 and 100. The eggs were warm, but the water was cold. I guess I'm just trying to figure out why I have such a horrible hatch rate in this 'bator. Maybe it is the other incubator. I'm candling all the other eggs tonight. I'll see what they look like!

Also, I do sterilize between uses. I'll try the white vinegar next time if the water gets slimy again. We use reverse osmosis water, so I can't imagine it was tainted, but I'll test it anyway.

Thanks again for the response and the link!!

Well you're right, the RO water shouldn't be tainted.
Most of the thermometer/hygrometers I'm aware of are only supposed to be accurate to ±2.˚F. They could all be off and the one on the incubator isn't necessarily right either.
Have you tried a Brinsea spot check? It is very accurate. This company has some nice equipment.
http://www.thermoworks.com/
This is the one I use.
http://www.thermoworks.com/products/low_cost/rt301wa.html

I had a Spot Check but didn't trust it because it disagreed with 5 other thermometers. Then I got the Thermoworks one and it was exactly the same as the Spot Check. I threw all the others away.

If I had to hazard a guess, I'm thinking your temp may be low. Are you getting any to hatch? If so, are they early or late?

 

[seramamama34]

Is it too late to increase or I can try and get it up a tad and expect the hatch date to extend? It stays at 99 for most of the time but does drop to a low of 98.2 before the heater kicks on again

 

[hippiestink]

Thank you everyone for the well-wishes. I'm back online just in time to see that I'm going to be featured on the site Wrapunzel! Pretty stoked.