Incubator basics

[Zmany2k]

I tried to hatch a number of silkies and Ayam Cemanis awhile back as well as two Black Copper Marans.

While I think of myself as a decently knowledgeable chicken farmer, this was my first attempt at hatching. I’ve always just ordered day old chicks.

Out of all of those eggs, only the Marans hatched (grow slow, hatch quick at 17 days). The Cemanis developed but never hatched. I believe they suffocated in their eggs. Same with the silkies.

Things I think I did wrong:
1) Humidity levels, too high at certain points, too low at others
2) Candling, I suck at it in general
3) properly using the auto turner

My incubator is fairly large and can handle 4 dozen eggs at a time. It shows internal temp and humidity.

Any relatives pros out there want to help me understand the process so I have more success in the future?

 

[SamuelMcF]

Were they shipped eggs? That could have greatly decreased the viability of the eggs.

Good hatch rates are dependent on a number of factors.

1) Humidity is very important. If it is too high during incubation the eggs will not have enough moisture loss and the chicks will essentially suffocate and not be able to hatch. Too low at the end of incubation will result in the membrane sticking to the chick and it won't be able to turn in the egg to be able to hatch.

2) Candling is just a reference for you to see what is going on. In fact, I do it once on day 7 to see which eggs are fertile and after that it is for mere curiosity most of the time. By day 7 you will see which eggs have developed and which don't so you can remove the ones that are not going to have anything in them.

3) The automatic turners will do their job fine and don't need to be messed with really unless they are not working. What is the problem you are having here?

The big thing is having consistent temps the whole time and get your humidity down. It is worth spending a few extra bucks for a good thermometer/hygrometer and don't trust the one that is built into the incubator.

Did you open the eggs to see how far along the embryos were? This will be a good indication of what the issues were.

 

[Zmany2k]

Were they shipped eggs? That could have greatly decreased the viability of the eggs.

Good hatch rates are dependent on a number of factors.

1) Humidity is very important. If it is too high during incubation the eggs will not have enough moisture loss and the chicks will essentially suffocate and not be able to hatch. Too low at the end of incubation will result in the membrane sticking to the chick and it won't be able to turn in the egg to be able to hatch.

2) Candling is just a reference for you to see what is going on. In fact, I do it once on day 7 to see which eggs are fertile and after that it is for mere curiosity most of the time. By day 7 you will see which eggs have developed and which don't so you can remove the ones that are not going to have anything in them.

3) The automatic turners will do their job fine and don't need to be messed with really unless they are not working. What is the problem you are having here?

The big thing is having consistent temps the whole time and get your humidity down. It is worth spending a few extra bucks for a good thermometer/hygrometer and don't trust the one that is built into the incubator.

Did you open the eggs to see how far along the embryos were? This will be a good indication of what the issues were.

Yes I opened them too see what happened. A few never developed (they were shipped eggs) but most did. It looked like all of them fully developed and then died in their shells.

At what points should I have what humidity?

 

[EggSighted4Life]

Out of all of those eggs, only the Marans hatched (grow slow, hatch quick at 17 days). The Cemanis developed but never hatched. I believe they suffocated in their eggs. Same with the silkies.

Quite simply.. you NEED to use a calibrated thermometer. According to your description your temp was WAY off and you were lucky to have anything hatch at all. Humidity will be irrelevant until temp is adjusted. That is THE #1 factor between life and death of embryo's.

What bator did you use and where did you keep it set? Were all vent holes open?

I suck at candling too.. especially Marans and blue eggs. It has zero impact on my hatch rate and is only relevant to what I can see.

How can you use an auto turner incorrectly? Were your egg pointy end down?

While it is doable...( I literally hatched Silkies and Marans together almost weekly for a whole year straight).. it's not idea.. they are different size and COLOR eggs.. darker eggs will do better with lower humidity (20-45%). Silkies do well around 35-45% humidity. Too high of humidity, will allow embryos to grow to big and maybe not be able to turn into position to pip.. possibly drowning at pip.. different than the suffocation you mention.. but both are possibilities..

It's true good hatch rates are dependent on a huge number of factors that the other poster briefly touched on.. there's also breeder nutrition, breeder age, how long eggs were held before setting and at what temp/humidity.

I never remove eggs at day 7 IF I'm unsure. Once I thought one was behind or quit so broke it open to scramble for the dogs and other pets only to have any eye and heart beat staring at me! I've never YET had a rotten egg explode. Also this is partly because I sell my hatching eggs and chicks for top $.. $65/dozen eggs or $10/straight run chick. So aside from the learning experience it can add up quickly if I'm tossing good eggs.

Shipped eggs can definitely be challenging.. I spent $150 on 3 dozen eggs shipped from Florida to California and 3 cockerels hatched ONLY. But I have shipped egg (within my state) and they had 75% hatch with 8/9 chicks being pullets!. Soo many variables yet again.. but shipping long distance makes weather also a factor in addition to the vibration disturbance which has studies showing the difference in egg condition before and after.. I know we take that risk for a reason! So just saying when able get them as close to home as possible... and try an incubation with cheap eggs first before going big.. so you can get your process dialed in.

Uhg.. I could go on and on forever but let me share my favorite incubation resource with you...
Incubation guide

Embryonic failure analysis starts around page 52.

Please note.. seeing your eggs were shipped (huge factor)... it's warm in some parts of the country.. it's possible your eggs had some development before you set them personally.. so maybe it wasn't you temp?? But if you are able answer some of the questions I asked as well and I will see if I can help with anymore key points.

Congrats on your first hatch, FWIW the best ones hatched!

Just my opinion though. Pics always welcome!

 

[Zmany2k]

Quite simply.. you NEED to use a calibrated thermometer. According to your description your temp was WAY off and you were lucky to have anything hatch at all. Humidity will be irrelevant until temp is adjusted. That is THE #1 factor between life and death of embryo's.

What bator did you use and where did you keep it set? Were all vent holes open?

I suck at candling too.. especially Marans and blue eggs. It has zero impact on my hatch rate and is only relevant to what I can see.

How can you use an auto turner incorrectly? Were your egg pointy end down?

While it is doable...( I literally hatched Silkies and Marans together almost weekly for a whole year straight).. it's not idea.. they are different size and COLOR eggs.. darker eggs will do better with lower humidity (20-45%). Silkies do well around 35-45% humidity. Too high of humidity, will allow embryos to grow to big and maybe not be able to turn into position to pip.. possibly drowning at pip.. different than the suffocation you mention.. but both are possibilities..

It's true good hatch rates are dependent on a huge number of factors that the other poster briefly touched on.. there's also breeder nutrition, breeder age, how long eggs were held before setting and at what temp/humidity.

I never remove eggs at day 7 IF I'm unsure. Once I thought one was behind or quit so broke it open to scramble for the dogs and other pets only to have any eye and heart beat staring at me! I've never YET had a rotten egg explode. Also this is partly because I sell my hatching eggs and chicks for top $.. $65/dozen eggs or $10/straight run chick. So aside from the learning experience it can add up quickly if I'm tossing good eggs.

Shipped eggs can definitely be challenging.. I spent $150 on 3 dozen eggs shipped from Florida to California and 3 cockerels hatched ONLY. But I have shipped egg (within my state) and they had 75% hatch with 8/9 chicks being pullets!. Soo many variables yet again.. but shipping long distance makes weather also a factor in addition to the vibration disturbance which has studies showing the difference in egg condition before and after.. I know we take that risk for a reason! So just saying when able get them as close to home as possible... and try an incubation with cheap eggs first before going big.. so you can get your process dialed in.

Uhg.. I could go on and on forever but let me share my favorite incubation resource with you...
Incubation guide

Embryonic failure analysis starts around page 52.

Please note.. seeing your eggs were shipped (huge factor)... it's warm in some parts of the country.. it's possible your eggs had some development before you set them personally.. so maybe it wasn't you temp?? But if you are able answer some of the questions I asked as well and I will see if I can help with anymore key points.

Congrats on your first hatch, FWIW the best ones hatched!

Just my opinion though. Pics always welcome!

Reading what you sent, sounds like my humidity was way too high the entire time. I kept the humidity at 50-60% as that’s what the instructions said.

I do not yet have a separate thermometer/humidity gauge, though I’ve looked at a few online.

 

[SamuelMcF]

Reading what you sent, sounds like my humidity was way too high the entire time. I kept the humidity at 50-60% as that’s what the instructions said.

I do not yet have a separate thermometer/humidity gauge, though I’ve looked at a few online.

There are some good ones on Amazon that are pretty accurate and will help you a lot! It is worth it to get one.

 

[Zmany2k]

Tracking all. I got my incubator off of Amazon. I won’t be incubating any eggs for awhile yet. My hens are all about two weeks from starting to lay eggs.

Once they’re laying, I want to separate the Marans and see if I can get them producing eventually. I’ve got the pullet and cockerel that’s are from different parents.

Want to make sure I’m fully prepared this time around so I get a better hatch rate than the 2/24 I had last time I tried.

 

[SamuelMcF]

Don't feel discouraged! My first hatches were disasters. You will get the details down and it will work out Good luck!!!

 

[Zmany2k]

That’s why I’m asking now. Likely won’t try incubating again for a few months. I’d like to see the results from the Marans.

My male is dead on breed standard, but my female’s coloring is off a bit. There’s a decent market here for one off breeds and I think the chicks would sell fairly well, as would the chickens themselves.