Incubators Anonymous

Hello Mrs. FitzDarcy,
Okay here is the typical scenario with respect to pullet/hen husbandry. The young pullet first begins laying when coming into adulthood. The initiation of laying (ovulation) varies somewhat with age, nutrition, access to a nest box, day length, breed, or strain within a breed and to some extent with respect to the bird's sense of security. As the day period grows shorter the light entering the eye is less each successive day. This triggers the hypothalamus to cause the ovaries to become less active resulting in fewer eggs and often a brief period when no eggs are produced at all for varying lengths of time. The main point to remember is that birds, not just chickens, generally lay better when the day(light) period is on the increase or are in their longer cycle. And it may take a few weeks for laying to begin. The point to remember is that a period of egg production almost always precedes broodiness. It is a rational biological principle that one does not go broody until after the laying period has arrived and one has produced a clutch of eggs. There is evidence that in the chicken, at least, the number of eggs pressing against the breast of the layer reaches a set point typical of that individual bird and very shortly she becomes broody. Once a hen goes broody her attitude change is radical and swift. She suddenly starts a constant fairly low volume staccato of little clucks accompanied by being anti-social to all comers She slowly paces about with feathers erectile reminding one of a back alley bully spoiling for a fight. They become almost totally fearless. They will often readily attack the hand that feeds. This radical personality change is unmistakeable! Some silkies are triggered by a nest of 8 eggs and another is triggered into broodiness by 10, or 12. Larger breeds generally have higher set points. Whatever it is for a particular bird is a genetically set point that stays much the same for that particular bird. I have had silkies that I could trigger at will by simply giving her a quiet place, with nest box, of course, and after giving her her set point number of eggs she would go broody sometimes as little as 36 hours later. A very few of my birds would be broody as a ding bat in 24 hours. Once broodiness occurs no more egg laying takes place until after her clutch is incubated and the chicks are hatched and reared. Only after the babies are "weaned" and are on their own does the hen start laying again. And the cycle repeats itself. This can wear out a hen so it is generally advisable to take away her next set of eggs as she begins laying them for a couple of weeks at least. Also keep her away from the nest boxes of others for any eggs will suffice to set her off again. It matters not to a dedicated momma hen whose eggs they might be. By the same token, while she is incubating a clutch of eggs do not let other hens have access to her incubating eggs as they will upset matters by adding an egg or two here or there in the broody nest. This results in all sorts of chaos. Not all the eggs can be covered resulting in some original eggs being lost to chilling. It also can result in the newer eggs not being hatched at all. That is why I always isolate my broodies in a secure quiet place away from the backyard din. Being more secure they are also more likely to leave the nest once or twice a day to feed, drink and defecate. Now, having said all of that, there are occasional hens who are so inclined to go broody that they will go broody without reaching any set point. It seems a compulsion. This usually happens to the hen who has reared more than two or three broods of chicks. They become mad with motherhood. These remarks can apply to any breed of nominally broody type hen but is almost sure fire to include silkies and a few other breeds. Keep in mind that broodiness has been bred out of some breeds and strains. They will go broody when you know what freezes over! I hope this a help to all the newbies.
Neal, the Zooman
 
I need a little assistance improving my hatch rate. My fertility is excellent, with my last batch 100% were developing at 7 days, I candled again right before I put them in lockdown out of 21 eggs 6 looked dead, 10 hatched with one more pip (11 I hope), the other 4 that didn't hatch were moving when I locked them down. According to what I have read I should expect a majority of my deaths before day 7 and at hatch, so I have no idea what is happening inbetween 7 and 21 days. Are there any thoughts on how to improve the chicks survive-ability. I am working on the nutrition side of things, but any other ideas would be very helpful!

Also I'm using a hovabator for a hatcher, it maintains temp perfectly and if I keep the humidity at 70 or above I don't have problems with membranes drying out. I also have a still air that I used to use, but I would fight with the temp during the entire hatching process.

Thank you!
 
I need a little assistance improving my hatch rate. My fertility is excellent, with my last batch 100% were developing at 7 days, I candled again right before I put them in lockdown out of 21 eggs 6 looked dead, 10 hatched with one more pip (11 I hope), the other 4 that didn't hatch were moving when I locked them down. According to what I have read I should expect a majority of my deaths before day 7 and at hatch, so I have no idea what is happening inbetween 7 and 21 days. Are there any thoughts on how to improve the chicks survive-ability. I am working on the nutrition side of things, but any other ideas would be very helpful!

Also I'm using a hovabator for a hatcher, it maintains temp perfectly and if I keep the humidity at 70 or above I don't have problems with membranes drying out. I also have a still air that I used to use, but I would fight with the temp during the entire hatching process.

Thank you!

What is your humidity during incubation? If it is on the high side, some chicks may grow too big to move into hatching position maybe even so large as to die before lockdown?
 
Hi,
I just bought a Hovabator Genesis for my daughter, we currently have eggs in the bator. But according to ours, it says humidity should be 45-55% is it possible your humidity is too high???

Dianna
 
I need a little assistance improving my hatch rate. My fertility is excellent, with my last batch 100% were developing at 7 days, I candled again right before I put them in lockdown out of 21 eggs 6 looked dead, 10 hatched with one more pip (11 I hope), the other 4 that didn't hatch were moving when I locked them down. According to what I have read I should expect a majority of my deaths before day 7 and at hatch, so I have no idea what is happening inbetween 7 and 21 days. Are there any thoughts on how to improve the chicks survive-ability. I am working on the nutrition side of things, but any other ideas would be very helpful!

Also I'm using a hovabator for a hatcher, it maintains temp perfectly and if I keep the humidity at 70 or above I don't have problems with membranes drying out. I also have a still air that I used to use, but I would fight with the temp during the entire hatching process.

Thank you!
It is my belief that you are maintaining your humidity levels way too high for the development stage. The humidity for the first 18 days needs to be between 45 and 55%. With a temp of 99.5. The reason for this is to have the humidity high enough to prevent the eggs from loosing too much moisture and secondly but most importantly it enables the air within the incubator to maintain the proper amount of oxygen for the developing embryo. If the humidity is too high it will displace the oxygen in the air as well as literally seal some of the pores in the egg shell preventing the absorption of oxygen through the egg shell. It is recommended during the last three days to raise the humidity during the last three days to 65 to 75% and well as increasing the amount of ventilation within the incubator. It is at this stage of development that the embryo starts building up large amounts of carbon dioxide and this triggers the hatching process and the embryo gets into position and internally pips and starts breathing on its own allowing it to exhaust the excessive amounts of carbon dioxide. it is at this point that the yolk starts to be absorbed thus the need for the increased humidity. This in fact prevents the inner membrane from drying onto the chick and allows it to turn around in the egg while externally piping. I hope this helps.
 
What is your humidity during incubation? If it is on the high side, some chicks may grow too big to move into hatching position maybe even so large as to die before lockdown?


It is my belief that you are maintaining your humidity levels way too high for the development stage. The humidity for the first 18 days needs to be between 45 and 55%. With a temp of 99.5. The reason for this is to have the humidity high enough to prevent the eggs from loosing too much moisture and secondly but most importantly it enables the air within the incubator to maintain the proper amount of oxygen for the developing embryo. If the humidity is too high it will displace the oxygen in the air as well as literally seal some of the pores in the egg shell preventing the absorption of oxygen through the egg shell. It is recommended during the last three days to raise the humidity during the last three days to 65 to 75% and well as increasing the amount of ventilation within the incubator. It is at this stage of development that the embryo starts building up large amounts of carbon dioxide and this triggers the hatching process and the embryo gets into position and internally pips and starts breathing on its own allowing it to exhaust the excessive amounts of carbon dioxide. it is at this point that the yolk starts to be absorbed thus the need for the increased humidity. This in fact prevents the inner membrane from drying onto the chick and allows it to turn around in the egg while externally piping. I hope this helps.
I keep my humidity on average at 25% for the first 19 days, I only increase the humidity for hatching. However with that being said, when my humidity drops below 20% I do add water. I have a humidity spike up to 50% for a couple of hours when I do.

Thank you for the advice, I will see if keeping a tighter control of my humidity helps.
 
I keep my humidity on average at 25% for the first 19 days, I only increase the humidity for hatching. However with that being said, when my humidity drops below 20% I do add water. I have a humidity spike up to 50% for a couple of hours when I do.

Thank you for the advice, I will see if keeping a tighter control of my humidity helps.

That seems pretty low to be too high. I have some eggs I have to keep right around 35%, more and they get too big and may or may not pip, less and they die before lockdown. You may just need to experiment. Rotating the eggs around the bator is good too in case you have warmer/cooler spots... I try to remember to do that...
 
Who has experience with this incubator: http://www.amazon.com/Farm-Innovator.../dp/B007571DFM

I really really need another incubator but I can't afford another Brinsea right now.

How steady does the Pro Series keep the temp?

I have a Hovabator and a Little Giant and the hatches in them just aren't very good. Actually, in the Little Giant the hatches are very bad. Even my own (unshipped) fresh eggs hatch at maybe 25% or 30% in the Little Giant, the same eggs that hatch over 90% in the Brinsea.

My Brinsea is GREAT, holds the temps rock steady, but another isn't in the budget right now at all.

I need something that holds the temp real steady but doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

I live in a breezy old farmhouse where the temp fluctuates wildly year round, so I need a bator that can take that, like my Brinsea does.
 
I have some eggs in my Hovabator right now and they have been running around 46 percent. It has been staying between 99percent and 102, most of the time at 100 percent. The last time I incubated eggs I got 5 out of 9. I didn't think that was to bad. My bator was at 40 percent humidity this morning and I thought that was to low. I think I need someone to tell me what's good, although I think my instruction manual said around 45 percent for humidity for the first 18 days. I'm waiting until sunday to candle my eggs. That will be a full week. I'm not sure if they will be any good. The eggs were dirty and I tried to clean them and spot clean so maybe they won't be good. I get really excited at candling time. Doesn't everyone?!
 

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