introducing new chicks (three weeks apart in age)

Painter_Jane

In the Brooder
May 23, 2020
47
44
36
Currituck, NC
I have two sets of chicks that are three weeks apart. So far they have only been introduced in neutral areas where the babies can get away if they need to. The two sets of chicks are 3 weeks apart. Two chicks are 6weeks and 2 are 3 weeks. the six week olds are in the coop full time, and the three week olds are still in a brooder on my back porch. At what point can I add the younger ones to the coop? It's hot here even at night right now so I'm not worried about the temperature. mainly just making sure they stay aliveand well! Thanks.
 
As soon as you want. Do make sure that there are some hideouts in the coop as well. But if they are working it out, while outside, they should be fine.

Mrs K
 
As soon as you want. Do make sure that there are some hideouts in the coop as well. But if they are working it out, while outside, they should be fine.

Mrs K

I have a trouble maker barred Rock mix that keeps chasing my faverolle and pecking her and she gets the other one started now too. I moved her out temporarily but I'm not sure how long to separate and if I can still let them free range together some of the day or if she needs to be seperate then too.
 
Leave the younger chicks in the crate for a week or so.
Then try to let them mingle again.

I already moved the Barred out of the coop... Temporarily and the other older pullet got lonely and started hanging out with the littles... So I'm going to wait one more day to let the other one get used to them and then let my BR back in so she's the new one... The others older chick had stopped picking on the babies now that the bully (and bad influence) is out of the coop. Hopefully that will fix the problem with the social dynamics.
 
I already moved the Barred out of the coop... Temporarily and the other older pullet got lonely and started hanging out with the littles... So I'm going to wait one more day to let the other one get used to them and then let my BR back in so she's the new one... The others older chick had stopped picking on the babies now that the bully (and bad influence) is out of the coop. Hopefully that will fix the problem with the social dynamics.
Not sure a 'couple days' will do the trick.
How big is your run?
Lots of space makes integrations go much better.


Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better.
Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/
 
It's small but I have added many hiding spots. They do fine during the day when they are in the yard but when confined the older two gang up on the younger ones. Especially my flighty faverolle. I have two feed areas and waterers. and I try to let them work it out.
 

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