Introducing

Panda-Zen

In the Brooder
Apr 23, 2022
38
16
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Hello I was Wondering what is a safe way to introduce new hens to my other hens.. The ones I’m looking to introduce are about two months old in the group I’m trying to put them in is four months old
 
Here are some tips. Each individual flock culture is different.
-If possible let the share a wall for a few days, separate them within the same pen.
-Climatize the little ones to their new space while the older ones are locked in the run.
-Incorporate them at night or dusk as they are settling down for the night anyway.
-Make sure there is plenty of space and the younger ones have a place to get away.
-Distract them treats. Sunflower seeds & greens. Sometimes I clean the coop just prior, everyone is exploring the new bedding.
-keep an eye on them, squabbling is normal. If it is to intense, separate and try again the next day.
Hope that helps.
 
Hello I was Wondering what is a safe way to introduce new hens to my other hens.. The ones I’m looking to introduce are about two months old in the group I’m trying to put them in is four months old
How many birds in each group?
How big is your coop and run, in feet by feet?
Dimensions and pics would help immensely here.


Here are some tips on....
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better.
Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.

Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/
 
This is the one I want to add too, they do free roam, I am about to get a barn with my yard fenced in so they have access to the yard at all times. There is 12 girls in this and I wanna add maybe 6 for now and then the rest later but this will happen when I get the bigger barn. ( the coop is smaller then it said it was and I know they need more inside room)
 

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This is the one I want to add too, they do free roam, I am about to get a barn with my yard fenced in so they have access to the yard at all times. There is 12 girls in this and I wanna add maybe 6 for now and then the rest later but this will happen when I get the bigger barn. ( the coop is smaller then it said it was and I know they need more inside room)

I do not think that you have room to integrate any chickens into that coop.

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:
  • 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
  • 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
  • 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
  • 1/4 of a nest box,
  • And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.
12 hens
  • 48 square feet in the coop. 6'x8' is more practical than 4'x12' since a long, skinny coop like that would be difficult to work inside.
  • 12 feet of roost
  • 120 square feet in the run. 10'x12' or 8'x15' -- 8'x16' means fewer odd cuts than either of those. 6'x20' is possible, especially if your run is an open-topped, fenced area instead of fully-enclosed with a solid and/or wire roof but risks social problems because subordinate hens need to be able to pass the dominant hens at a respectful distance.
  • 12 square feet of ventilation.
  • 3 nest boxes.
18 hens
  • 72 square feet in the coop. 8x10 is a common shed size to convert. 6x12 would have less waste to build.
  • 18 feet of roost.
  • 180 square feet in the run: 12x16, 10x18, 8x24
  • 18 square feet of ventilation
  • 4-5 nest boxes.
Integration takes more than the minimum space for best success. @aart's advice is excellent and has given me splendid results with my integrations so far.
 

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